Steering lock plate removal

ChrisN34 · Post by **ChrisN34** » Mon Jul 24, 17 4:57 pm

Hi guys, fitting a new ignition switch but having a bit of trouble getting the column apart. Managed to get the bearing and snap rings off, but I'm stumped when it comes to the lock plate. I assume that is what is called, the circular, saw blade looking thing. Any tips? I saw on another forum they used a special tool, but I'm hoping I can get it off without a special tool

Cheers

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Mon Jul 24, 17 5:54 pm

Yes I've done this job recently. The big jagged locked ring plate is held in place by a pin. You need to drift that pin out and then you can remove the lock plate. After that it's easy to remove the ignition switch and barrel.

Don't forget to lower the steering column so as to make removing/refitting the switch easy. It has a junction block which is a bit of a fiddle to squeeze down thru the steering column head. I posted some pics of the lock removal a while back in winter/spring this year.

Also, depending on the quality of the new ignition switch the junction block may need cable tying together for insurance.

Finally, I hope you have a good ignition switch. The crap one Roackauto sent me was wired completely wrong and after multiple attempts at re wiring the switch, I binned it and bought a rare OEM zone for Â£125. Worked first time and ever since.
Good luck

ChrisN34 · Post by **ChrisN34** » Tue Jul 25, 17 5:51 pm

How'd you manage to get the pin out? Also, the switch you got from rock auto, don't suppose it was a standard brand switch was it? Mine seems to be wired the wrong way too.

Don't suppose any one would know how to wire up a push button starter? I think it might be the best choice for now,

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Jul 25, 17 5:57 pm

You have to punch the pin out - there is a cover that you have to prise off first.

ChrisN34 · Post by **ChrisN34** » Tue Jul 25, 17 6:05 pm

Cheers Pete, I managed to get the cover off easily enough but the pin won't budge. One side seems to be longer than the other and sticks out slightly

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Jul 25, 17 6:07 pm

I used a press, Duncan would probably use his teeth...

ChrisN34 · Post by **ChrisN34** » Tue Jul 25, 17 7:47 pm

Tried a hammer a few times, doesnt want to budge. I have seen there is a special tool, but i assume they are few and far between

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Jul 25, 17 8:12 pm

Chris, I drifted mine out in five minutes.
Don't even think about the push button switch. I researched all that too.
I hope your new switch is good, but mine had the starter turning at start..and it stayed starting. Long annoying story.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed Jul 26, 17 11:56 am

what a bloody awkward thing to change

i'd be pressing it against the column (in case it needs an earth..but that's unlikely) and trying to start it first before putting all that back in for good.

Dave

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Wed Jul 26, 17 12:09 pm

Dave, as we discussed at the time, I had so much fun

I ended up retiring the switch via a junction box and literally trying to reconfigure. Gave up and ordered OEM in the end.

CHRIS READ THIS
Ok, got your attention. Your new switch has a small black wire coming down from it. It wil join the OEM connector under the dash as you plug the two halfs together to finalise the job. It will join up against an orange wire.
DONT
Cut the small black wire and tape it. It is an earth and will blow a fuse if connected to the OEM orange wire. The small black wire, not the big one, you need that!

On an auto there is a separate orange wire that lluminitrs the shifter on the column. That needs to be attached to its original orange OEM partner wire to work.

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Wed Jul 26, 17 1:03 pm

Last time I did one of these I disconnected it from the box and slid the inner shaft up rather than batter the lock ring off.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Wed Jul 26, 17 1:19 pm

I made up a piece of Tiber that held the shaft safely so
no abuse took place. To be fair, the drift I used was exact and made the job easy.

ChrisN34 · Post by **ChrisN34** » Wed Jul 26, 17 1:19 pm

MilesnMiles wrote:Dave, as we discussed at the time, I had so much fun

I ended up retiring the switch via a junction box and literally trying to reconfigure. Gave up and ordered OEM in the end.

CHRIS READ THIS
Ok, got your attention. Your new switch has a small black wire coming down from it. It wil join the OEM connector under the dash as you plug the two halfs together to finalise the job. It will join up against an orange wire.
DONT
Cut the small black wire and tape it. It is an earth and will blow a fuse if connected to the OEM orange wire. The small black wire, not the big one, you need that!

On an auto there is a separate orange wire that lluminitrs the shifter on the column. That needs to be attached to its original orange OEM partner wire to work.

Cheers, i thought that the connectors didnt line up properly, if that orange wire is just for the shifter light then i can forget about that for now. Going to give it another try today, hopefully can get it sorted

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Wed Jul 26, 17 2:07 pm

That's right Chris. I removed the steering lock and put it in a box. Don't want it going wrong as Pete once experienced. When you go to start the car just listen carefully because my starter just kept spinning and that's where the problems started. Hopefully you'll be ok.

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Wed Jul 26, 17 4:20 pm

if you have aircon control with a light you can run the shift quadrant light from the same feed. its on its own rather than a grouped set of bulbs like the dash lights

Dave