my 318 has a factory electronic dizzy so to simplify things i got a stock type orange box module and wiring harness. my car was points and has a ballast resistor but i plan to fit a 12v electronic ignition type coil with no ballast. are there any good reasons not to do this or will it be fine?
cheers, neil.
electronic ignition
Moderator: Moderators
Re: electronic ignition
The risk is that the coil will not get 12v when cranking as the voltage will drop.
This is why old school Mopars had a Ballast that was in circuit in "Run1" position, and out of circuit in "Run2" position - which was cranking.
It then dropped back to "Run1" when you let go of the spring loaded ignition key.
If you ran an old school Coil without the Ballast it would overheat and cook.
Give it a try and see how it fires up.
Cheers!
Pete
This is why old school Mopars had a Ballast that was in circuit in "Run1" position, and out of circuit in "Run2" position - which was cranking.
It then dropped back to "Run1" when you let go of the spring loaded ignition key.
If you ran an old school Coil without the Ballast it would overheat and cook.
Give it a try and see how it fires up.
Cheers!
Pete
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.
Mopar by the grace of God
Mopar by the grace of God
Re: electronic ignition
thanks.
i understand how the ballasted setup works but wanted to simplify my car. if it starts ok i'm good with it.
neil.
i understand how the ballasted setup works but wanted to simplify my car. if it starts ok i'm good with it.
neil.
Re: electronic ignition
yeah will be fine
Chryslers like all cars left the factory with the bare minimum of battery capacity
any more would be a waste of money
a modern battery is more efficient and you probably have one that would start a diesel transit in there
096 does the trick and fits the tray cheap in the summer 3 times the price in the winter.
i run no ballast and a 12 volt coil.. and have used standard and denso starters
in theory mine as a six cylinder has 2 less chances per cycle to start than your v8...
if its a 318 you have we have the same pistons i have longer stroke (3.68 vs 3.31) i have 7 main bearings add in extra drag, and a static CR of 12:1
you have 2 more pistons and rods
mine should be harder work to start than yours in theory, due to lack of opportunity more than anything else
and mine starts fine
just be careful if you go for a blaster or something, box might not like 0.8 ohms primary resistance...might overheat the box , some primary resistance will protect it...like 2-3 ohms
This works https://simonbbc.com/Genuine-Lucas-DLB1 ... resistance.
igntion sees 14 volts when alternator is doing its thang
14/3 = 4.6 amps in coil primary if you ignore impedance and other magnetically induced resistances that limit current, basic rule of thumb says should be alright
dave
Chryslers like all cars left the factory with the bare minimum of battery capacity
any more would be a waste of money
a modern battery is more efficient and you probably have one that would start a diesel transit in there
096 does the trick and fits the tray cheap in the summer 3 times the price in the winter.
i run no ballast and a 12 volt coil.. and have used standard and denso starters
in theory mine as a six cylinder has 2 less chances per cycle to start than your v8...
if its a 318 you have we have the same pistons i have longer stroke (3.68 vs 3.31) i have 7 main bearings add in extra drag, and a static CR of 12:1
you have 2 more pistons and rods
mine should be harder work to start than yours in theory, due to lack of opportunity more than anything else
and mine starts fine
just be careful if you go for a blaster or something, box might not like 0.8 ohms primary resistance...might overheat the box , some primary resistance will protect it...like 2-3 ohms
This works https://simonbbc.com/Genuine-Lucas-DLB1 ... resistance.
igntion sees 14 volts when alternator is doing its thang
14/3 = 4.6 amps in coil primary if you ignore impedance and other magnetically induced resistances that limit current, basic rule of thumb says should be alright
dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: electronic ignition
i do have a blaster 3 but the destructions aren't clear as to whether it'd need a 0.8 ohm resistor so i fitted a new standard 12v electronic non ballast coil. i have the parts to swap to an hei module with an msd copy e-core coil so that may be something i do in the future.
neil.
neil.
Re: electronic ignition
blaster will work with the hei
so will the HEI coil basically two implementations of much the same thing
as with all things it comes down to how its used
orange box in theory won't like 0.8 ohms primary
at 14 volts in theory it will suck 17 amps through the poor power transistor in the orange box
it will never get near that due to a host of magnetic and time based hindrances unless you leave it switched on and stalled
but it could get to 6 or 8 which is still a bit much
and the ballast will work hard if you use one as well say you used a 2 ohm ballast and the coil was 1 ohm primary
you'll have 9 volts across the ballast and 5 across the coil ratio approx 2:1 ballast will get V hot
i'd aim for a 0.7 or 0.8 ohm ballast
mix n match is a bit of a pig....
the HEI will see you right bolt it to a heat sink... and use either of the "welding pack" coils
keep a standard ish coil for the orange box or go for chrome box for the blaster
you can get a perfectly good spark from 2-3 amps and a standard coil with standard plug gaps
main benefit of HEI is getting rid of the ballast which is just 1 more point that gets hot and fails.
it was designed to fire off an emissions era low compression smog equipment chevy small block with a horribly restrictive catalytic converter, think monster back pressure and rubbish carburation...it managed that, so a nice free flowing and "unpolluted with exhaust fumes" charge in the cylinder of a mopar v8 should be no bother
so will the HEI coil basically two implementations of much the same thing
as with all things it comes down to how its used
orange box in theory won't like 0.8 ohms primary
at 14 volts in theory it will suck 17 amps through the poor power transistor in the orange box
it will never get near that due to a host of magnetic and time based hindrances unless you leave it switched on and stalled
but it could get to 6 or 8 which is still a bit much
and the ballast will work hard if you use one as well say you used a 2 ohm ballast and the coil was 1 ohm primary
you'll have 9 volts across the ballast and 5 across the coil ratio approx 2:1 ballast will get V hot
i'd aim for a 0.7 or 0.8 ohm ballast
mix n match is a bit of a pig....
the HEI will see you right bolt it to a heat sink... and use either of the "welding pack" coils
keep a standard ish coil for the orange box or go for chrome box for the blaster
you can get a perfectly good spark from 2-3 amps and a standard coil with standard plug gaps
main benefit of HEI is getting rid of the ballast which is just 1 more point that gets hot and fails.
it was designed to fire off an emissions era low compression smog equipment chevy small block with a horribly restrictive catalytic converter, think monster back pressure and rubbish carburation...it managed that, so a nice free flowing and "unpolluted with exhaust fumes" charge in the cylinder of a mopar v8 should be no bother
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Re: electronic ignition
great info as always dave, thanks.
i'll see how it goes with the stock type 12v coil for now
neil.
i'll see how it goes with the stock type 12v coil for now
neil.