904 prop yokes?

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Wolfman
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904 prop yokes?

Post by Wolfman »

I am still trying to chase down this vibration at the back of my Challenger. Re balancing the rear wheels did nothing to improve it. So I have been under the car again! I have found a very small bit of play in the front U/J, but more to the point the front yoke seems very sloppy and when I rock the wheel it kicks up and down a bit and clunks. She has always clunked when put in gear or reverse for years. Could this be what is causing the vibration, altho it has only had the vibration since the accident. When I hold the axle yoke and gently move a rear wheel, it moves just over 1/2" before I can feel it start to move the yoke, is this right?.
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Blue
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Re: 904 prop yokes?

Post by Blue »

There should be no play at all in the UJ's, personally I'd replace them both. Slop at the yoke is liable to be a worn tail shaft bush rather than the yoke itself.
“This ain’t no party, this ain’t no disco, this ain’t no foolin’ around”
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Wolfman
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Re: 904 prop yokes?

Post by Wolfman »

Blue wrote: Sun Oct 09, 22 4:41 pm There should be no play at all in the UJ's, personally I'd replace them both. Slop at the yoke is liable to be a worn tail shaft bush rather than the yoke itself.
Is the tail shaft bush an easy fix? I am going to have to get a specialist to look at the axle near me. Trouble is the assessor has deemed the car unfit to drive so I have got to trailer it to get looked at and try to recover the costs from the claim going through this is a complete ball ache. :evil:
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Dave999
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Re: 904 prop yokes?

Post by Dave999 »

this is how i do it...
probably wrong.. bit bodgy but no disasters yet...
worked on aussie 4 speed and a couple of t5 manual boxes so i'd guess will work on an auto as well.

take off tail housing..
lever out seal or seal and bellows

find the section in the casting where the oil drian gap is, between casting and bushing
use hacksaw blade to cut 3/4 way through the bush to weaken it.
heat housing gently with blowtorch, remeber its aluminium, it will get hot then just collapse if you go mad... be gentle
knock it in or out with a big socket.

or use black n decker workmate or workbench with hole in it
stand housing on it

put long threaded rod (approx 1 meter wickes can help), though housing and through hole in table
nut and big washer under the table

put appropriate sized socket on end of bush with the threaded rod through it
big washer and nut
wd40 and or heat, as before
slowly do up the nut below the table and pull bush through

Or combination of both.
once it starts to move its easy
before that point its just nerve racking

you will need to drain the transfluid or oil to the level of the sump. i.e about 80% of it

make sure you get the right bush..... think its the one used in early rangerovers... Blue will know where to get 904 specific.

the more expesnive seal with the bellows on is nicer than the flat one in my opinion

Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
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Wolfman
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Re: 904 prop yokes?

Post by Wolfman »

I googled doing the bush bit like fitting a double race bearing in hub I guess. Where is the best place over here to get transmission bits and 8 3/4 axle bits eg gaskets hub seals and such like. I am also wondering whether to get a sure grip back in mine, I have not been nuts on it since the old one came out as I was told it was shot and spares were not easy to get.
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Blue
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Re: 904 prop yokes?

Post by Blue »

Vanmatic for your trans bits, Hauser for axles.
“This ain’t no party, this ain’t no disco, this ain’t no foolin’ around”
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