Steering wheel

[Matthew Saxon]

I chipped in on someone’s thread about interior panels, but thought I’d do a separate post. The original steering wheel had been removed because the rim had cracked and split. I thought I’d have a crack at refurbing it using Milliput epoxy putty which is now available in black. Overall I’m quite pleased, the Milliput has darkened up with some WD40, it’s not a perfect match but I’d only get that with a spray finish.
One thing I did find out, DON’T try to buff up the rim on a wheel it is not a hard plastic and the wheel will pull the surface.

Finally a question, I cleaned up the contact ring, but it’s in a terrible state, does anyone know if , how these are removable and are there replace ment rings available and also the contact pencil?

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[Dave999]

Yes i have removed one before by accident

the cancel stub is a fat piece of spring wire. if you grab the end with mole grips you can flex it and remove it. after you have done that the copper track just more or less falls off

remember to mark where the cancel stub is/was before removing it.

getting it all back on involved a hammer and a big socket

or at least it did on mine, which is on the base of the "crush can" on any car after 1970... crush can on mine much like a challenger one


Dave

[morgan]

Does the wheel only go in one place ? Is that a locating stub ?

Question as mine is on wonky after steering box swap and I thought I might rotate it on splines at top end rather than pop column off. That pic suggests column off…

[Derek]

Aline steering wheel by adjusting the tracking or file the master spline and then the wheel can go on any place you like.

[Dave999]

Does the wheel only go in one place ? Is that a locating stub ?

Question as mine is on wonky after steering box swap and I thought I might rotate it on splines at top end rather than pop column off. That pic suggests column off…

no that's the indicator cancel cam trigger stub. you can twist it round to be in the right place

i do not believe that the wheel/ crush can on mine has a master spline so wheel can go on any way...yours may differ


normally with a new steering box or a new ball nut and screw, you would centre wheel. centre steering box and cut a new master spline in the steering box input spline.

presume your new box came with a master spline on the worm screw already cut
if that is the case and you know the wheels are centred take off steering wheel and fit it in the correct position.

aim for cross link on the steering centred in the car. measure from chassis rail to outer most part of track rod ball joint, just use a spanner if it just wedges in on 1 side make sure it just wedges in on the other. you know it is centred then.

that way the track rods will be of equal length and the impact of bump steer will be the same on both sides

Dave

[morgan]

Thanks. Expect next post to be "I cant get the Bananarama! sterring wheel off !" hahaha