And another RHD Barracuda…

[Dave999]

Or an Aussie master cylinder

but will probably cost triple the US cost

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162814131597

dave

[Blue]

Yes I’d already ruled out an Aussie one from a cost perspective. Just out of curiosity, what’s the third port for?

[Stu Twin]

Blimey, can't have been easy to check the trans oil with that servo in the way.

[Blue]

will look like this when finished which is a bit more sensible...

[Blue]

Blimey, can't have been easy to check the trans oil with that servo in the way.

Complete pain in the arse, tightest corner of the engine bay so lets cram everything in there!

[Stu Twin]

I noticed that on a Jensen the other week.
Spark plugs look almost impossible to get to what with the servo, column and all sorts of other containers, Lucas electrical stuff etc.

[Dave999]

Yes I’d already ruled out an Aussie one from a cost perspective. Just out of curiosity, what’s the third port for?

danger switch in master cylinder on Aussie Cars not on the distribution block....

it is a ball roller switch that runs on a piston between the front and rear circuits if one fails the pressure causes the piston to shuttle to one end and cut off the circuit with no pressure, and switch on the dash mounted brake light.
maintains 50% braking in event of pipe burst. you can drive for ever like that
(US version shuttles with every brake press and you can drive just about long enough to stop before you have pumped a considerable proportion of the fluid out)

it then doesn't pop back until you undo the switch,PITA when bleeding the brakes...

when i got my car i wondered why the brakes were awful... turns out the dash brake light had been pulled from the cluster to "fix" the brake problem.
there was no problem in evidence just the switch had triggered at some point and an eejit had been involved in the Fix.

undo the switch at the master cylinder listen for click 5 minute job
take the dash apart to pull a bulb, 2 hour job...

must not have had the service manual....

i guess if you have no switch you can just cap it off, with no switch in it should work like a US one. the switch ball runs in a detent to hold piston when activated, no switch nothing to lock it in place

Dave

[mygasser]

Yes I’d already ruled out an Aussie one from a cost perspective. Just out of curiosity, what’s the third port for?

danger switch in master cylinder on Aussie Cars not on the distribution block....

it is a ball roller switch that runs on a piston between the front and rear circuits if one fails the pressure causes the piston to shuttle to one end and cut off the circuit with no pressure, and switch on the dash mounted brake light.
maintains 50% braking in event of pipe burst. you can drive for ever like that
(US version shuttles with every brake press and you can drive just about long enough to stop before you have pumped a considerable proportion of the fluid out)

it then doesn't pop back until you undo the switch,PITA when bleeding the brakes...

when i got my car i wondered why the brakes were awful... turns out the dash brake light had been pulled from the cluster to "fix" the brake problem.
there was no problem in evidence just the switch had triggered at some point and an eejit had been involved in the Fix.

undo the switch at the master cylinder listen for click 5 minute job
take the dash apart to pull a bulb, 2 hour job...

must not have had the service manual....

i guess if you have no switch you can just cap it off, with no switch in it should work like a US one. the switch ball runs in a detent to hold piston when activated, no switch nothing to lock it in place

Dave

so out of curiosity, without the switch could you block the port with a ball bearing and a pipe fitting to keep the 2 circuits separate like 'normal' dual circuit cylinders?
neil.

[Dave999]

Well i think you could cap it off as mentioned
not sure about the ball bearing
depends on if you want it to stick in position or not

but the piston will still move back or forth if one circuit has a problem

here is a picture of the early version with 2 front outlets one rear and the switch port in the middle with the switch screwed in
the end of the switch sits on a lump and if the piston moves the end of the switch pushes into the lower bit and stops the piston moving back

how the hell the one in the picture stops off the flow to front or back i don't know, but i have the master cylinder and it most definitely does work...
presume a failure on either front causes only the back to work and a failure at the back leaves both front working

this is separate stuff from the main bore and piston which feed in from the top of the picture
it was a jack of all trades master cylinder used on drum and drum n disc cars pull out the residual pressure valves you don't need..

brake warning switch and brake warning valve in pictures below

Dave

[Blue]

Anyway, after 20 odd years of sitting the rebuilt 318 fired right up with no noises or smoke and good oil pressure. So out it came to go in another RHD Barracuda project we have at the ranch. Trans too and back axle. Axle is a rare 7.25 sure grip if anyone wants it.

[Blue]

I thought I’d scraped my last underside some years ago but here we are again…

[Pete]

Full rebuild then?

[Blue]

Full rebuild then?

No I just want to drive it but I do have standards!

[Blue]

Seems to have the usual distribution block but then I found this further down the rear line which I assume is a proportioning valve. My other ‘68 doesn’t have it and neither has any other A body I’ve ever worked on.

[Stu]

Axle is a rare 7.25 sure grip if anyone wants it.

That came out of a 67, from a lad who was on here for a while. Think his Board name was Sickfish? No idea what happened to him or the car.