You can buy uprated heavy duty light weight mini alternators in a kit and import from the US for a lot of money
but in most cases you don't need to because there has been nothing done over standard to make them heavy duty light weight or mini , they were kind of heavy duty to start with. Used by John Deere, JCB, kubota, Yanmar Perkins etc
cheaper to purchase alternator here and use an ebay or home made bracket to do the job.
so if you were looking for one, some pointers
Mini Denso alternators
Denso made in japan- best
Denso made in china ???
Hella and Bosch - i would expect good
HC Cargo is a Bosch owned company in denmark... Its bosch
look up parts here https://www.denso-am.eu/catalog/pv
Look at pictures here https://images.carid.com/denso/pdf/star ... atalog.pdf
these alternators have slip rings in them that are about 3 mm thick. the chances of them ever wearing out are remote.
The brush packs are easy to change, the bearings are sealed, pressed into 1 housing onto a spring washer, and bolted into the other with a bracket. the fan is welded onto the rotor.
some of the tiny screws are a bit soft so plusgas, GT40 , penetrant oil or similar, and an impact driver necessary to dismantle
vice and sockets and big hammer does the rest.
Easy rebuild, no soldering necessary, screw down wire terminals that have plastic insulators built into the rectifier board, that go deep into the case, so no short circuits, and the case cleans up in Oxalic acid or cleaning strength white vinegar.
there isn't anything to not like....
denso part numbers and config
Part numbering
EG 100211-4730 on the label, is Denso part 211-4730 the last part of the number you may find on the denso sticker
101210- different case.... in most cases a big fat lower mount twice as thick
for easy install you want a 211 case with the thin mounting bottom mount
a 210 case has a thick mount and you would need to dismantle and cut off the rear case section of that mount for many uses, or build a special bracket.
the fat mount version may work well on a motor that needs a spacer to sit the alternator forward i.e you will need a shorter spacer with a fatter mount.
The 210 style mini is still made by denso check out 210-0109 and 210-0116 both 60 amp.
This 211-4730 part number will translate to a modern DAN <nnnn> part number on the denso site i.e multiple old models become a kind of universal replacement with a DANnnnn number.
P = Phase a connector to drive a tacho, goes to ECU and clocks the ECU tacho drive circuit. The ECU translates/corrects alternator RPM into engine rpm , for use on a diesel that has no coil or ECU ignition triggers. works well enough for that job only, unless you change pulley size from standard. don't use it on anything else and don't short it out.
IG 12 volt ignition switched feed. they are internally regulated.
S sense wire, a wire that runs direct to battery + via a fuse at both ends, very low current in normal use very high if it snaps and shorts out to the chassis, used by the alternators regulator to measure voltage at battery +. used on vehicles where the run from B+ to the battery is a long way...
a low current sense wire will give a more accurate voltage reading than trying to gauge it via the B+ wire when the b+ wire is the length of the vehicle. i.e a run from alternator to boot and maybe back again before you get to the feed for the IG wire. difference between IG and B+ dicates output if no sense wire.
L Light if it has an L and you want it start charging instantly put a 5-10 watt dash light bulb from a switched 12 volt feed in the wire to this connector. if you don't it may not charge or it may only start to at 2000+ rpm. once it starts will will stay working at lower rpm. depends totally on residual magnetism left in the steel parts of the rotor. i.e a used one will work like this a new one may not. low current 12 volt into here via a lamp causes alternator to switch on once it is spinning over 1000 rpm, then it disconnects this connector or diverts 12 volts to it and the lamp goes out.
some have the main Battery stud out the back, some have it stick out the side neither will be a problem on anything other than slant 6 and hemi 6 where the stud out the back may be a little close to the fuel pump outlet, which on both engines can have the steel pipe angle changed to avoid problem.
Most of the small single pulley alternators came off small cars, boat motors and plant, very few older versions had S (sense) connectors.
you want an alternator with a 2 wire T, spade connector modular plastic plug, or a 3 wire clip in waterproof oval connector for simple install.
a REAL denso from Japan has ND pressed into the back cover. Many sellers of chinese copies and many rebuilders use stock photos and will sell you one that isn't Nippon Denso even if the picture is of a genuine ND branded Alternator.
80 and 90 amp versions in the 211 style case are aftermarket. denso seems to have stopped at 70 amps for this alternator. no surprising given how small it is.
you can buy replacement pulleys in many different offsets and they do fit alternators that originally had a ribbed belt pulley
if you can't get the offset right you can fit up to 1.5 mm of shim washers under the pulley on top of the 1/4 inch spacer that is already in there
40 amp prefect for standard mopar wiring and equipment provided its all in good order.
There are many more part numbers than this but you can find what you want using any of them... have provided a few for each style and amperage
always check the pictures, ebay listers get things wrong
all have a B+ stud the wires i mention are the other connector
40 Amp
3 wire P IG L
100211-4730
100211-4731
100211-4732
100211-4770
2 wire IG L
100211-1670
100211-4520
101211-1030
101211-1031
60 Amp
2 wire IG L
101211-8630
101211-8631
101211-8632
60 Amp
3 wire P IG L
101211-2960
101211-2961
101211-2962
101211-2963
60 amp with sense wire, 3 pin plug and Fat mounting lug current production
210-0109
210-0116
70 amp
3 wire P IG L
101211-6210
extra amps??
3 wire S IG L
210 case fat mount mini alternator for those who just want MORE AMPS
210-0115 is a fat mount 70 amp with ribbed pulley that will take the single v pulley but it has a round toyota specific plug see similar in the range
210-0121 is an 80 amp one from a lexus similar to 0115 round toyota plug
101211-0800 115 amps fat lower mount 10 o'clock top mount, spoils the fun some what, 3 wire
I would suggest you are only ever likely to need more than 40 amps if you have electric fuel pump and big electric cooling fans or a thumping stereo that involves ear protection and occasional dentistry
if you go over 40 amps (60 amps on police or taxi pack car that have the bulkhead bypassed and a shunt on the ammeter from the factory)
take the ammeter and bulkhead connector out of the equation
Dave
