Mopar Muscle Association UK

looks like the one that we used to buy from Mocal to stick big orange fram filters on the inner rear wings on VW beetles....just peaking out below the edge of the rear wing so that everyone could see you had full flow oil filterage...

statement of intent, even if you were still rocking 1300 ccs
think i still have one somewhere with a golf filter on it

Dave

Blue wrote: Mon Mar 17, 25 8:55 pm Trans dapt make an adapter to go from the filter surface to hose. As ever it all depends if there’s enough room to do it that way.

how deep do the threads go on that adapter blue? if they're all the way the tops could be cut down and then fit pipes with banjo fittings. for a tad more you could even countersink the banjo fittings and bolts.
neil.

Other work has got in the way and the car had to go back into storage for the last 9 months. It’s back in the operating theatre now and work has recommenced.

Started with the usual halogen headlight conversion with my favourite Wipac plastic headlamps. I found a plug in relay conversion on the Bay, very neat way to do it and non invasive. Trans cooler next…

Bit of a rummage through the stash turned up an Edelbrock performer and a 600 double pumper so fitted those…

Champion 3 core rad installed, I like these as they are bolt in, stock hoses and shrouds fit and they are fully welded and are a sensible price. Only downside in my case is I need about 1/2” more clearance to fit a viscous fan, I should be able to rework the mounts to shift the engine back a bit, job for another day.

is it worth nipping the side brackets off the rad' and sliding the rad forwards between them to gain the clearance then reweld them?
neil.

Rad can’t move any further forward without cutting the front panel, I’ll only do that as a last resort but it is an option.

Bit of research Today showed Hayden make a low profile fan clutch for applications like this, only 2.77” tall that’ll do nicely. On order.
https://www.haydenauto.com/en/products/ ... fan-clutch

I have a 2800 stall convertor to fit so a bit of additional transmission cooling isn’t a bad idea. I don’t want the trans running stone cold either so the fluid goes trough the standard cooler in the bottom of the rad and then through an auxiliary cooler mounted out front. 5/16” Kunifer for the hard lines following the original route along the side of the engine oil pan changing to AN6 PTFE lined hose to link everything up.

I made a new license plate bracket suitably ventilated so as not to restrict airflow to the long Derale cooler.

Plenty of 'oles, exactly as expected.

Coming on nicely, really looking forward to seeing this rolling again!

Blue wrote: Fri Jan 09, 26 3:22 pm I made a new license plate bracket suitably ventilated so as not to restrict airflow to the long Derale cooler.

who you trying to convince? you just couldn't fit something without lightening holes
neil.

I hate American power brakes anyway but when it’s a monstrosity like this blocking access to everything on this side of the engine it was on my to do list. Whilst struggling to work around it the front brake pipe broke off so it went to the top of the list…

First job is to replicate the original mount with an adaptor made of 1/8” ally plate. This picks up the pedal box mounts and additional bracing points and allows me to fit a manual master cylinder in the correct location. Mopar master cylinders have pipe exits to the right, straight into the valve cover if it’s RHD. The only exceptions are Superbird/Daytona and some Hemi cars, not going there. Bit of reasearch brought up a Dorman M98908, correct bore size, connections on the left and readily avilable. Original application is 1980s Lincoln/Ford, 2 bolt mount rather than the usual Mopar 4 bolt.
Weirdly the pedal box already has 2 bolt holes in the correct location for the Ford Master so I assume manual brake RHD cars used something similar.