Mopar Muscle Association UK

Ok, I can concur, Hauser never stripped the motor down. The only parts he fitted was the new Jesel belt drive, Oil Pump, Dizzy, plus a few misc. Steve should be able to confirm.

My understanding was that the main part of Steves dosh was spent at Hausers on a new glide & the above parts.

Motor hasn't done more than 30 passes, I was pretty fastidous in terms of changing oil after any event. Had my system 1 oil filter, so was easy to keep an eye on what was going on, lot easier than cutting open filters.

I always pre oiled the motor before starting, was easy as I had belt drive dist, so simply removed the old cut down dizzy/shaft, which was only functioning as an oil pump drive.

After every run, I used to check valve lash & give the rockers a dosing from the oil can prior to a run

I always removed rocker system, when motor was being left standing.

It's true, I did have an issue with eating pushrods & eventually went to a spray bar system. It seemed to be OK, but if I had of kept the motor, I would of gone for T&D's, with oil through pushrod system, AMC Lifters.

I have always advocated pushrod oiling, even more so an a motor that revs like that one. 8,000rpm comes round so quick, you wont believe it.

If I had known, it was coming back for sale at the sort of money, I would of bought it again.
Tis a great motor........... for the track, just too much for the street.

Cannonball wrote:yep its deffo the area to watch with em, one off the outlaw anglia guys paul hensher runs a b1 he carries spare everythin for the top end cause off damage/torching etc, bitchin things,

Have known Paul Hensher for 20 plus years, when he was flogging Snap On tools round my way. I obviously spoke to him about my issues. I also spoke to Ian Bishop.

It was after talking to then both & seeing Ians top end after he had put in some runs,I decided to go for the Spray bar system.

Bert Englifield (Now BA Racing-Pro Mod) also had similar problems years ago when he run a B1.

It was a cheap option at the time, but as I keep saying, its more of a band aid.

On another note , i spoke with Scott koffle yesterday regards rod end clearance (.028") , he says this is fine with alu rods , would of thought @ least .040".

Brutus wrote:On another note , i spoke with Scott koffle yesterday regards rod end clearance (.028") , he says this is fine with alu rods , would of thought @ least .040".

I had them set @0.028"/0.029", what you didn't trust me

mopar_mark wrote:
I had them set @0.028"/0.029", what you didn't trust me

not at all Mark , really need to know what's goin on with this motor , we thought Koffel built this for you , gettin lots of wires crossed here.

Was a bit surprised with the .028" clearance that's all.

Brutus wrote:

mopar_mark wrote:
I had them set @0.028"/0.029", what you didn't trust me

not at all Mark , really need to know what's goin on with this motor , we thought Koffel built this for you , gettin lots of wires crossed here.

Was a bit surprised with the .028" clearance that's all.

As I said, the original motor was built by Koffel, but I only bought the block, Crank & got the cam thrown in.
I didn't get a build sheet or nothing, so reversed engineered it. But I did buy the the new Rods, Pistons, Buttons, Rings from Koffel.

Looks like they could've gone .012" tighter.

Brutus wrote:

Looks like they could've gone .012" tighter.

What ?

You're right Mark , min rod side clearance is .016"

Was an inverted compliment.

mopar_mark wrote:It's true, I did have an issue with eating pushrods & eventually went to a spray bar system. It seemed to be OK, but if I had of kept the motor, I would of gone for T&D's, with oil through pushrod system, AMC Lifters.

I have always advocated pushrod oiling, even more so an a motor that revs like that one. 8,000rpm comes round so quick, you wont believe it.

Have heard about pushrod /rocker problems before i bought mine but the guy assured me he hadnt had a problem , but it is fitted with T&Ds and a dry sump system, Dunc still stripped it and rebuilt it ,fitted new shells and rings, twice ,as one of the cylinders split second season out and we had to sleeve it (bore is 4.385):thumbright: thats racin as they say,

Hey , somethings tellin us we gotta look out for potential problems that have obviously been overlooked , heard nothing but bad Bananarama! since this thread went up.

Not gonna waste time & effort for this motor to go tits up , there's always a reason.

Steel rods are cheap enough, and long lasting. Just a thought.
Mind, you an expensive re-balance will result....

Brutus wrote:Hey , somethings tellin us we gotta look out for potential problems that have obviously been overlooked , heard nothing but bad Bananarama! since this thread went up.

Not gonna waste time & effort for this motor to go tits up , there's always a reason.

Brutus,
I wouldn't say that nothing that bad Bananarama! has been posted. The spray bar was working fine & I didn't lose any pushrods after it was fitted.

Just said, if I had kept the motor, I would of switched to T&D, as its better in my opinion to have rockers on individual shafts.

Secondly if I was changing those I would of also changed the lifters & pushrods for through oiling

Thirdly, those rods are fine & don't need replacing yet, nearly 30 odd runs is nothing.

I agree with Mark all my observations tell me this is a well engineered set up and finances being what they are it will run as it is for now.
I still have to sort out the Gearbox, converter and chassis.
Just have to prioritize

Mark , i was'nt reffering to the 545" that you built , what i mean't was the B1s in general , reading between the lines there seems to be issues with them , sorry for the confusion.