Mopar Muscle Association UK

Stupid question time again.

I am in the process of trying to sort out some electrical gremlins on the Belvedere at the moment. First problem is I don't seem to be getting 12 volts going back into the engine bay, consequently my ignition and charging circuits aren't working correctly.
I have got 12 volts going into the ignition switch, but with the ignition switched on this drops to 10.5 volts, and I am only getting 10 volts out of the switch and back into the engine bay. My question is surely this can't be right, or is it????

Other thing I tried today was putting 12 volts to the IGN terminal on the voltage regulator I am getting 14.5 volts at the battery, with the cars wiring I'm only getting 12.8 at the battery.

Help, its now getting past my electrical abilities.

Skip, What is it when cranking ?
that should be 12 Volts and drop when key is released to operate the ignition system at around 9 volts via the ballast resistor.

Remake all the Motor / Chassis earths this will help...often over looked.

Or do you have Electronic ignition or MSD ??

Steve,
I've got 12volts going to the switch, with the ignition switched on, not cranking, I have at the same terminal only 10 volts. On the terminal going to the fuse box I only have 10 volts. From the terminal going back to the starter relay I have only 8 volts.
I tried yesterday to put 12 volts from the battery to the FIELD terminal of the voltage regulator and run the car up and I've got 14.5 volts at the battery, with the wire from the loom ( which I only have 10 volts at ) and I've only got 12.5 at the battery.

Yes I am running a Mopar performance dissy.

It seems to me if I had 12 volts going back into the engine bay theres a chance everything else will work properly.

So something in the switch is drawing it down ? is that right

Thats what I'm starting to think, or hope.
Bummer is I know damn well I have a Dart ignition switch, with keys, somewhere, but I can't find it.

Gotta be the place to start...but wonder why without shorting out ?

Don't know, I've got an auto electrician I've known for years coming out early this week to have a look, hopefully he can sort it out. Got to the limit of my electrical skills, OK with the basics but getting beyond me now.

If its drawing current/volts it would be heating up too!!! and will drain the battery!

Haven't checked if its heating up, doesn't drain the battery as I've got a kill switch that I switch off when not in use.

No hot or melted wires then ??

Check those flat multi pin connectors under the dash. A couple of mine have got warm in the past. Follow the harness down the steering column to the first connector block. Have you pulled the bulkhead connector and cleaned every terminal? Put a bit of vaseline on each one.

OOOOOO

When you switch the ignition system on the voltage will drop if the engine is not running. The coil for example is just a resistance between the +ve to ground. So you will have a voltage over that just for starters.

You can ONLY check voltage levels when the engine is actually running.

Fair point Dave,
but surely I am loosing voltage somewhere, if with the original wiring connected to the FLD terminal of the voltage reg I'm only getting 12.6 ( battery ) volts at the +ve terminal, with a permanent 12v feed to the FLD terminal I'm getting 14.6 volts at the +ve, looks like there isn't enough power to kick the regulator in.

To be honest with you I'm still suspecting bulkhead connector may be the problem.

Skippy wrote:To be honest with you I'm still suspecting bulkhead connector may be the problem.

Usually is. But I would still get the engine running and check the voltages then.