db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***

[db]

Might be an idea come replacement time.

Meanwhile... The cam has a lot of movement that clearly shouldn't be there and this seems to be why- with the cam bolt tight, there's 25+ thou behind the fuel pump drive which rattles around on the end of the cam! I either need to pack it or find a thicker plate.

On further investigation... Should this dished washer be this way round? If so it was fitted upside-down! That why the bloody cam had so much movement and why the bolt worked loose

[latil]

I'm pretty sure that's the way it goes,that would cure the slack.

[db]

Thanks Steve.

I've decided to leave the pump drive off.
It serves no function, the bolt and dished washer tighten up on the cam correctly without it and I gain a couple of threads on the bolt.

I've lined up the dots on the gears and loctited the cam bolt so I can start reassembling now

[Blue]

Yes that's to direct oil, the bolt above it is the one that should be drilled. I wouldn't recommend a gear drive for street use, they are very accurate timing wise but the novelty of the whine will soon wear off if driving any distance, drives you mad...

[db]

There speaks the voice of experience

I'm paranoid now that I might not have lined up the timing gears up correctly.
I've bolted the timing chest and the balancer on and loosely fitted all the rocker gear. Is there a tell before I go any further? Oil pump drive position maybe?

[Pete]

Nope. Lining the Dots, or degreeing the cam in with a wheel after positively identifying TDC with a DTI.

[DaveB]

You cant find TDC with a DTI,Crank will move 2 or 3 degrees back and forth and piston wont move,find true TDC with piston stop fixture.
You can check cam timing by turning engine clockwise,get #1 piston to TDC,both valves closed,(compression),Look at lifters on #6,they should be level,with each other,cam timing will be very close to cam spec doing this.

[Dave999]

now you have done up the sprocket is the cam in the right place ??

Dave

[Dave999]

Well, I do believe I've found the cause of my problem... One very loose cam sprocket bolt. It was literally one turn from falling out, only the contact with the timing chest was holding it in!

good job small blocks have a robust cover.... i'm guessing again but it looks it

if it was pressed steel I think you would have seen the bolt a while ago

Dave

[db]

Bizarrely Dave I haven't actually looked at the cam yet! I shall later.
Yes lucky that casing held or there could have been a big emulsified mess!

I remembered I took a photo didn't I! I'd say the timing marks are bang on. Happy now

[Blue]

If you're on TDC there fella the dots should be together, google Rollmaster timing marks to be sure.

[latil]

Half a turn out on the cam sprocket there. Set TDC and start again.

[Blue]

Actually Paul it might be right, I have a vague recollection of fitting a Rollmaster many years ago and although the instructions said dots together It had to be like you have it. Easy enough to check, at TDC the lifters on No1 should be on the back of the lobe, if not you're 180 degrees out.

[Dave999]

my instructions for rollmaster were much the same as these although i don't know which part these are for

[Bozwell]

don't forget one turn of the crank is a half turn on the camshaft. so both ways are right, it's just easier to see with the dots together.

with the rockers loose, turn the crank one turn and then see if they align.

but really the best way is with a degree wheel and dial gauge as aligning dots is a bit ambiguous