Doe's anyone know the caster and camber for a 70 road runner and doe's it change with 17" rims with low profile tyres.
Cheers
Caster & Camber
Moderator: Moderators
Caster & Camber
Petrol is for washing parts, Alcohol is for drinking, Nitro is for racing!!!
Hell Yeah!! I'm a Redneck
Hell Yeah!! I'm a Redneck
-
Dave-R
- Posts: 24751
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
Jim.
As I (and others) have said many times here, Forget about the factory settings.
This is my general thought on front end alignment for these cars. This is for the benefit of anyone else reading this too.
Drag Racing.
You probably want as much positive caster as possible. Zero camber. Probably zero or very little toe IN. 2mm max. Because camber is zero you should have enough caster in the stock adjustment. But more would not hurt.
Circuit Racing.
About 1 degree negative camber. Offset bushings will be needed to maintain enough caster angle. They say 3-4 degrees will be enough but 4-5 is desired. Myself I don't think caster is that important on a circuit where you are always going from one corner to another with high ratio manual steering. Maybe AndyRob could chip in with this?
For sure you need a little toe OUT. About 2-3mm is enough to help with cornering.
Fast Road.
I am thinking 0.5-0.75 degrees neg camber with offset bushings optional for more caster. With power steering I would go with the extra caster for sure. But you don't really need more than 2 degrees caster on a normal street car. They came with less than that from the factory.
Toe should be 2.5mm IN.
I have fast ratio manual steering and very big front wheels. Too much caster is not easy to steer with at low speeds.
Cruiser - lots of motorway use.
0.25-0.5 degrees neg camber. At least 2 degrees caster. 2.5mm toe IN.
These are my current thinking on the subject anyway. I would love to hear other peoples opinions.
As I (and others) have said many times here, Forget about the factory settings.
This is my general thought on front end alignment for these cars. This is for the benefit of anyone else reading this too.
Drag Racing.
You probably want as much positive caster as possible. Zero camber. Probably zero or very little toe IN. 2mm max. Because camber is zero you should have enough caster in the stock adjustment. But more would not hurt.
Circuit Racing.
About 1 degree negative camber. Offset bushings will be needed to maintain enough caster angle. They say 3-4 degrees will be enough but 4-5 is desired. Myself I don't think caster is that important on a circuit where you are always going from one corner to another with high ratio manual steering. Maybe AndyRob could chip in with this?
For sure you need a little toe OUT. About 2-3mm is enough to help with cornering.
Fast Road.
I am thinking 0.5-0.75 degrees neg camber with offset bushings optional for more caster. With power steering I would go with the extra caster for sure. But you don't really need more than 2 degrees caster on a normal street car. They came with less than that from the factory.
Toe should be 2.5mm IN.
I have fast ratio manual steering and very big front wheels. Too much caster is not easy to steer with at low speeds.
Cruiser - lots of motorway use.
0.25-0.5 degrees neg camber. At least 2 degrees caster. 2.5mm toe IN.
These are my current thinking on the subject anyway. I would love to hear other peoples opinions.
-
andyrob
- Posts: 4135
- Joined: Tue Jun 20, 06 8:59 pm
- Location: sunny cramlington northumberland
- Contact:
drag
I'm no expert at drag racing, but am going to set big red & loud as follows:
set castor to max then jack up the front end a bit under middle of k member to hopfully copy the stance it will be under max acceleration & set the camber to zero (this will increase to stay 1-1.5 ? when car is sitting parked ) then set tracking to zero (this will go to slight toe in -i think when car is parked)
circuit racing
my experience here is all FWD (I know driving the wrong wheels), in general about 5 degrees castor, camber 2-4 degrees treaded tyres, 4-6 degrees slicks, slight toe out in the dry & a bit moe in the wet
tracking must always be checked after any adjustment to castor/camber as these both effect it
lowering/raising ride height- also effect tracking
jim the tracking toe angle will not change with larger wheels but the mm of toe will change on the tracking gadge, the setting dave has gave will be based on probably 14" wheels & larger wheels will need more mm to create the same toe angle, most tracking equipment will have a calibation gadge, but if you get stuck post what you are what & I will help
I'm no expert at drag racing, but am going to set big red & loud as follows:
set castor to max then jack up the front end a bit under middle of k member to hopfully copy the stance it will be under max acceleration & set the camber to zero (this will increase to stay 1-1.5 ? when car is sitting parked ) then set tracking to zero (this will go to slight toe in -i think when car is parked)
circuit racing
my experience here is all FWD (I know driving the wrong wheels), in general about 5 degrees castor, camber 2-4 degrees treaded tyres, 4-6 degrees slicks, slight toe out in the dry & a bit moe in the wet
tracking must always be checked after any adjustment to castor/camber as these both effect it
lowering/raising ride height- also effect tracking
jim the tracking toe angle will not change with larger wheels but the mm of toe will change on the tracking gadge, the setting dave has gave will be based on probably 14" wheels & larger wheels will need more mm to create the same toe angle, most tracking equipment will have a calibation gadge, but if you get stuck post what you are what & I will help
life is not a spectator sport
www.andyrobinson.eu
andy robinson
68 572 coronet RT
72 440 chrysler new yorker
69 518 daytona
www.andyrobinson.eu
andy robinson
68 572 coronet RT
72 440 chrysler new yorker
69 518 daytona
