New Member: CCK Historic '66 Barracuda FIA race car

[Anonymous]

Hello,

My name is Daniel and I represent CCK Historic. We are a classic car restoration and historic racing specialist. We are building a 1966 Plymouth Barracuda as an FIA race car.

The car will be built as a recreation of the car Richard Petty drove in the inaugural year of the SCCA Trans-Am race series. More info on our website here.

http://www.cckhistoric.com/category/plymouth-barracuda/
http://www.cckhistoric.com/project/plymouth-barracuda/

So far the car is in primer and largely stripped down. There is more work to be done before it gets painted in blue with the orange front.

The biggest hurdles I have at the moment are converting the car from drum brakes at the front to discs. And also converting from the automatic gearbox to an a-833 4 speed gearbox. If anybody has ANY parts that may facilitate these two conversions please get in touch. Likewise I have available for sale the complete interior from this car and the automatic gearbox and components. Thanks very much.

Daniel
www.cckhistoric.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/CCK-Histo ... ef=tn_tnmn

[Dave999]

nice one

what kind of disks

does it need to have era specific upgrades or will anything do

aussie cars had disk from 1969
(US it was an option
the good A body US disk stubs are expensive)

paired with US lower balljoints

aussie stubs

you can fit landcriser 4 pot calipers and still run 14 inch wheels if you wish
bit of minor work to rotor and depending on vented or none vented didks on the toyota ssome clearnce in the caliper slot....

or aussie single pot girlocks no issue bolt on OEM- VJ VK models

or jag 4 pot XJS 6/12
bit more work and heavy

or mopar specific wilwood upgrade depends how much you want to spend


belive

aussie girlocks 1973 -76
landcruiser sumitomo 4 post mid 90s
jag 4 pots XJ
and austin princess

all had the same bolt centres for the caliper mount

same mount on US B bodies but further up the stub due to bigger disks

all retrofits have minor differences in alignment with the disk which involves s bit of shimming... easy....1-2mm or custom rotor hats or a hub/bolt on rotor set up (Romac in aus could help)


and you have the usual issues associated with metric stuff on a not metric car for the landcrsuiser/hilux caliper

i.e sleaves for original bolts
and bespoke flexi lines

can assist with more info if you need it or search for dave999 and either jag or landcrusier Hilux and find me chuntering on

all upgrades used by Group Nc Mopar (historic series production saloon cars) racers in Aus who must use era specific gear.

Dave

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the input. It does not have to be standard stuff. Anything that will fit and will work for a racing car. We are running 15" wheels so clearance shouldn't be a problem. Wheels have a PCD of 5 x 4.5".

What discs, front hubs and stub axles are best to use if using Jag XJ callipers? Cheers.

Daniel

[Dave999]

PS

i think a bloke called adrian might like some interior...he'll be along in a while

A833 conversion

you want an A body box for standard ratios
or an F body (feather duster) ally box for the odd truck ratio 1st and a 0.73 overdrive top gear...this box is aluminium and might need some work to bush one of the shafts

this box has the short tail shaft housing

you need

A body specific peddle box
you need A body specific clutch arm
you need A body specif Z bar and mounts

you need the correct A body or F body housing and flyhweel

you will need to drive a new pilot bearing into the crank nose...either standard or if the crank is not finished a special version that fits into the rough smaller dimater hole left on some auto box destined engines

these boxes will fit without structural modifications to the torsiosn bar cross member box section that hoops up into the tunnel

but will need an A body 4 speed tunnel extension.


see

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-spee ... speed1.htm

and

http://www.brewersperformance.com/history.htm

and

http://www.passonperformance.com/

other options

toyota w58 steel sandwich plate box out of a supra

or

toyota r154 out of a supra turbo

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/tec ... boxes.html
http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/tec ... oxes2.html


both need the torsion bar cross memeber hoop cut out and strengthend and moved up into the cabin

Dellow automotive in Aus can supply the gear to do the conversion

http://www.dellowconversions.com.au/ima ... motive.pdf


both box are supposed to be bullet proof and cost less than a T5 T56.


the best option though

would be a

Borg Warner Single rail box out of an australian valiant

using an Aussie 4 speed to 318 mopar bell

no cutting or welding

and good for 320 ftlb of torque

but all are RHD....

full set up here

http://www.moparmarket.com/classifieds_ ... edad=37638

or
http://www.moparmarket.com/classifieds_ ... edad=37613

or even better

http://www.moparmarket.com/classifieds_ ... edad=37492

http://www.moparmarket.com/classifieds_ ... edad=37109


however you'd need hydraulic clutch due to LHD

light weight low parasitic loss

used by

Chrylser in valiants in Aus
Leyland behind 4.2 liter rover v8 in leyland P76
Ford behind 302 v8 in falcons post 71


pair it with a borg warner m78 rear end running the quiafe tru track destined for an M75 M76 M78 equipped Morgan

much lighter than the US axles
less well suited to drag racing
but good for track
used by chrylser aus for saloon car racing bathurst 24 hour etc

or indeed the standard M78 cone based LSD from an aussie car

M78 is a borg warner designed BTR engineering built aussie axle

company is now Spicer Axle Australia

http://www.spiceraxle.com.au/products.htm

i think this fits
morgan are not sure
http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qdh3m

for you car youd need a VE VF or VG axle housing
with a valiunat of ford 25 spline axle cone centre
or upgrade with custom axles from moser to a 28 spline 4 spider gear centre from a holden or Iroc camaro


axles supplied to Chrylser Aus Chrylser SA, GM (UK US AUS) ford AUS lotus UK morgan UK TVR UK


Dave

[Dave999]

Thanks for the input. It does not have to be standard stuff. Anything that will fit and will work for a racing car. We are running 15" wheels so clearance shouldn't be a problem. Wheels have a PCD of 5 x 4.5".

What discs, front hubs and stub axles are best to use if using Jag XJ callipers? Cheers.

Daniel

well ive seen them fitted to an Aussie valiant with aussie stub axles

here is the story

http://www.moparmarketforum.com/forum/v ... =7&t=26949

i have a set for rebuild if you need

£50


landcruiser hliux is easier conversion

story here

http://www.moparmarketforum.com/forum/v ... =63&t=4504
4th post has link to original article

however
i belive based on work done by Anton (on this board) (he did the landcruiser conversion)

that the bolt centres for the mount on B body disk stubs are the same as A body just the combined orginal cliper parts were different

he had to make a braket to move the landcruiser caliper up the stub to take into account the bigger rotors on a B body stub


the braket however was purely for using the bigger disk not due to any mismatch in mounting bolt spaceing


so

landcruiser and jag clipers bolt to A body stubs and Australian Stubs (i.e RHD A body)
B body stubs have the same bolt spacing just in general have bigger disk rotors and possibly bigger wheel bearings..

so to answer your question

i'd look for aussie valiant stubs and hubs in 4.5 PCD from a VH onwards (Try Martin at DBmotors leicester he had some a month ago because i purchased a pair from a car full of that kind of stuff )
top balljoint should be OK
US bottom balljoints for a small balljoint car
i'd get Roger at pedders UK to get me new VH vented disks and studs.
Jag calipers
modify the pads slightly as stated in the write up link above
use the jag bolts
get think automotive to make up felxis
use a banjo end for the caliper to avoid clerance issues
you would also then have the option to use Aussie single pot girlock slider caliper from a VJ or VK if need be as an alternative (martin at DB motors can probably supply some grotty ones)

alternative would be

US Abody 73- onwards disk stubs and rotor (hard to get hold of but will definitly fit look up Rick Ehrenbergs article from Mopar action
and US single or 4 pot calipers
the landcruiser or jag calipers fit as well although you'd have to find a US supplier of disk rotors and hubs to make sure on the bearing front

or

somone can tell you about the dodge viper conversion which i know exsits but have taken little notice of due to lack or parts in UK

or

with US drum stubs

you can buy a kit from wilwood or stainles steel brakes SBC? SSBC?

their caliper mounts mount to the old brake back plate bolt holes with an appropriate hub to leave space to do so.

Dave

[Dave999]

3 sets of appropriate hilux calpers here top 3 will fit disk stubs

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/items/__hilux ... SRCHX:SRCH


Rick Ehernbergs article

http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html


Viper

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/howt ... ewall.html

kit

http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumforce_disc_brakes.htm

ssbc
http://www.ssbrakes.com/



dave

[autofetish]

Welcome

looking forward to you starting a build post in the WORKSHOP section

[Dave81]

Welcome to the club and what a crackin choice of car and project!

Look forward to seeing the progress!

[RobTwin]

Cracking website you have there Daniel

One of our members, Jem, would be interested in your progress on this project:

http://www.cckhistoric.com/tag/austin-j40/

[Charger]

hello there , cool car

[db]

Dave, hogging the limelight again

Welcome! Sounds like a great project, look forward to seeing it develop

[Mossy68]

Welcome

Great project car. You've come to the right place for help and advise
Good luck

[Pete]

Welcome to the club.
In terms of manual gearboxes, whilst the "Overdrive" gearbox sounds a good idea; I think they are inherently weaker internally on the main/layshafts to arrange the gears accordingly (as 4th becomes 3rd) so I do not think it would stand up to the stresses of racing. This is why I ruled one out for drag racing purposes when I had a small block.

[DaveBishop]

Welcome to the club
I agree with everything Pete as said the overdrive box is too week and because the case is aluminium you have problems there as well.
I don't know if you have this book I bought it back in 1988 (its been updated a few times since then) when I toyed with the idea of circuit racing but the cost put me off. Not the cost of building a car but all the other costs.
The Mopar chassis book as a section on circuit racing as well.

[andyrob]

Hello, good ive finally got a circuit racing buddy on this forum

Most race series outlaw overdrive or range change mechanisms