Mopar Muscle Association UK

Sorry Dorian I swapped the whole diff with a mate. You don't want no steenkin' 3.55's...

That will do for now.

Proper Job.

How did you manage the "Unobtainium" Spears in the end?

I chanced upon a guy on Facebook that seems to have everything for these cars, let's just say he knows how to charge.

Blue wrote: ↑Mon Jan 25, 21 4:57 pm I chanced upon a guy on Facebook that seems to have everything for these cars, let's just say he knows how to charge.

Well, you were in too far to back out really.

I assume your trousers were keeping your ankles warm?

Blue wrote: ↑Mon Jan 25, 21 1:10 pm Sorry Dorian I swapped the whole diff with a mate. You don't want no steenkin' 3.55's...

No worries I’d probably mis the thrill of the 4.10s anyway

They look great Blue, they weren’t in the UK I presume... so shipping on top...
What are the specs on those front tyres? Love the ballooning on them

Yea they were in the States, probably the only set here. They were within 1/4" of being too long to send by USPS else it would have got really silly. Front tyres are Pro Trac 215/75 15, they really have the period look.

Right then this job is looming, replace rear panel, boot drop offs and lower rear quarters. All advise and tips welcome, I've not done this before.

Good to see they have finally arrived!!

Dave Billadeau will probably be able to advise.

Alternatively, give Ash Rawson a call and talk it through with him, I am sure he will have done it before.

The good thing is that the lower 1/4 has a nice radius, which makes it much easier to lose the weld & blend the filler over the radius.

It’s harder to butt weld the panels, so might be easier to go for a slight overlap, another option is to joggle the edge of the new panel, but obviously have to take into account curve.

Panel clamps are great help, especially if butt welding, clecos can also assist depending on method chosen.

A lot easier to show n do, than write

Thanks Mark, I have most of those tools. It's also been suggested I only replace the bare minimum of sheet metal cutting down the patch panel to suit and joggling it, I think that's the way forward.

Typical American "repair", brazing a panel over the rust and fill to suit, there is a lot of filler to remove ...

Are you tempted to cut it back to above the Marker Light?

Good progress, though. It takes nerve to pick up the Angle Grinder like that.

Nothing to be gained by going any higher Pete, I'm working on the basis that the lower down the panel the repair is the easier it will be to hide. It was quite badly warped by brazing but seems to have largely sprung back now that's been cut off.