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Ball joint / tie rod puller / separator ideas
Posted: Sun Apr 30, 17 3:44 pm
by TW71
I am after a heavy duty puller / separator which will work on all the ball joints fitted on these cars i.e. strong and fits easy on the part without damaging the dust boots.
Over the years I have used many types including the fork type etc., etc, but always a struggle!
Maybe the hydraulic type wound be best?
Thank you.
Posted: Sun Apr 30, 17 4:38 pm
by Blue
I have one like this which won't damage the boots if you're careful and fits most of the balljoints. I still find the easiest way to separate the top and bottom balljoints is the 2 hammers method though.
Posted: Sun Apr 30, 17 4:46 pm
by drewcrane
Blue wrote:I have one like this which won't damage the boots if you're careful and fits most of the balljoints. I still find the easiest way to separate the top and bottom balljoints is the 2 hammers method though.
Yes the two hammers works, give it a whack,it will take a few but be patient
Posted: Sun Apr 30, 17 10:46 pm
by Rebel
I can never get the two hammer approach to work, seen it many times on TV and you tube, but it never works.
Going to have another try later this week while replacing all the ball joints on my wife's 67 Land Rover
If it'll fit, you might get away with using a pitman arm puller
Posted: Mon May 01, 17 10:38 am
by TW71
Thanks fella's.
I usually use the hammer method as well to some success.
What type is yours Blue, a pitman arm puller type?
Posted: Tue May 02, 17 11:24 am
by Dave999
bottom joint can be done by the suspension alone
undo the nut 1/2 a turn
take off the brake
Hit the eye in the end of the lower arm with hammer
jack under to take the suspension strain
undo
lower down
mind I find that works with the top one as well
it really is best to break that taper first but leave it hanging.
if you can get the track rods off at the outer ends and the pitman arm off you can take the whole cross link off the car
rest each eye on the rear saddle part of your vice or on a curb stone and smack with a hammer
lower shock bolts are also a pain. they press fit into the lower shock eye sleeve
undo nut so it covers end of thread
welly it as hard as you can
this peens over the end of the nut somewhat, which in turn restores its self locking capability
the only balljoint splitter that works is the scissor type with the bolt.
use the bolt only to tension
then
Hit the eye with a hammer.....
I,.e you don't need it if the suspension provide the necessary tension
Dave
Posted: Wed May 03, 17 12:02 pm
by MattH
Agree with Dave, scissor type with big bolt, then tension it all and whack it with hammer, but makes ure nut is loose on threads first or you won't be bale to undo it once the taper has freed, it will all just spin.
Posted: Wed May 03, 17 1:31 pm
by TW71
I used various tools when I rebuilt the front end some years ago, I am sure I used the scissor type then and hammer, I must of borrowed it as I cant find it.
I didn't have a problem with the shocks thankfully!
Posted: Fri May 05, 17 11:19 pm
by octanejunkie
Rebel wrote:I can never get the two hammer approach to work, seen it many times on TV and you tube, but it never works.
I can never get this to work either!