Mopar Muscle Association UK

I guess there are numerous candidates for this but if I could just ask the question on here 😀

I was at santapod this Saturday and after a couple of runs I decided to take out the stock dizzy and fit the MSD.

The stock one was able to give 16 degrees initial with 34 all in. But after I checked again Saturday it was going up to 38/39 degrees hence the swap.

After some minor mods to the excess casting on the iron heads I got the new dizzy to fit and connected up.

I had marked up the position (1St cylinder tdc on compression) on the stock dizzy so I could position the MSD.

Car fired up straight away and the idle was notably smoother, so much so, my lad came back from a wander round the track and asked what i had done to the Dart to make it idle smooth.

Anyway, I now have 18 degrees initial and 34 all in but flipping heck the car seems to get hot quick.

I'd love to know what I'm missing or what Ive done to maybe cause this.

As I said, the motor idles much more evenly now and seems a little crisper on throttle response. AFR is 12.8 to 13.2

Any pointers for a novice please, cheers, James

Does the MSD distributor have a vacuum advance can? Did the stock distributor have one?

The stock one didn't use the vac advance. I removed it from the new one.

I'd put some pictures up but they need resizing. I'll try tomorrow.

Demon James wrote:I guess there are numerous candidates for this but if I could just ask the question on here 😀

I was at santapod this Saturday and after a couple of runs I decided to take out the stock dizzy and fit the MSD.

The stock one was able to give 16 degrees initial with 34 all in. But after I checked again Saturday it was going up to 38/39 degrees hence the swap.

After some minor mods to the excess casting on the iron heads I got the new dizzy to fit and connected up.

I had marked up the position (1St cylinder tdc on compression) on the stock dizzy so I could position the MSD.

Car fired up straight away and the idle was notably smoother, so much so, my lad came back from a wander round the track and asked what i had done to the Dart to make it idle smooth.

Anyway, I now have 18 degrees initial and 34 all in but flipping heck the car seems to get hot quick.

I'd love to know what I'm missing or what Ive done to maybe cause this.

As I said, the motor idles much more evenly now and seems a little crisper on throttle response. AFR is 12.8 to 13.2

Any pointers for a novice please, cheers, James

Hi James, mine was running really hot and it turned out the timing was at least 12deg out. After adjusting it the car runs at around 180 now. Maybe you are one tooth out on the drive, just a thought.

Sorry mate my reply seems to be in the middle of your post !!!!!

took me a minute to find it.

Timing seems ok with a snap on timing light. And the new unit dropped straight in where the old one came out and all the marks I'd made lined up.

Which way were you 12 degrees out? 12 advanced or 12 retarded?

rockinpete wrote:Sorry mate my reply seems to be in the middle of your post !!!!!

Fixed

RobTwin wrote:

rockinpete wrote:Sorry mate my reply seems to be in the middle of your post !!!!!

Fixed

No it's not, Rob. Still getting hot

Maybe just a coincidence, that its decided to run hotter than you are used to since fitting that dizi, most of my racecars seem to run hotter the longer i own them, no idea why, i try to have them circa 180 in to the bleach box then as i stage seeing 190-200 for the pass coming back can be anywhere 200-210 not an issue,,

I know if mine is only several degrees retarded it gets hotter.

Cannonball wrote:Maybe just a coincidence, that its decided to run hotter than you are used to since fitting that dizi, most of my racecars seem to run hotter the longer i own them, no idea why, i try to have them circa 180 in to the bleach box then as i stage seeing 190-200 for the pass coming back can be anywhere 200-210 not an issue,,

Cheers Dunc, that sounds exactly the same then

The last two runs where nearly back to back which I guess is not good practice then. I'm used to going round and round in the Demon when the track is quiet but thats only a street car running 14.9 ( the 14.9 is VERY important cos it means it's not a 15 )

Demon James wrote: took me a minute to find it.

Timing seems ok with a snap on timing light. And the new unit dropped straight in where the old one came out and all the marks I'd made lined up.

Which way were you 12 degrees out? 12 advanced or 12 retarded?

I had 2 degrees at idle and 22 degrees all in at 3200rpm.

We set it at 12 degrees at idle and 32 degrees all in and changed the springs in the MSD from the bed springs that were fitted to the lightest and it is now all in at 2600rpm, No pinking now and seems to run at about 180and the fan didn't come on until I parked. Lights the tyres up with a medium press on the loud pedal !! got get some mickey t's now

Demon James wrote:

Cannonball wrote:Maybe just a coincidence, that its decided to run hotter than you are used to since fitting that dizi, most of my racecars seem to run hotter the longer i own them, no idea why, i try to have them circa 180 in to the bleach box then as i stage seeing 190-200 for the pass coming back can be anywhere 200-210 not an issue,,

Cheers Dunc, that sounds exactly the same then

The last two runs where nearly back to back which I guess is not good practice then. I'm used to going round and round in the Demon when the track is quiet but thats only a street car running 14.9 ( the 14.9 is VERY important cos it means it's not a 15 )

exactly our street guys running 13,s 14,s may put in on a good yr at the nats circa 25-30 passes i will prob do 12-14 as mine wont like to be hot lapped, have done on the odd occasion but coming back to pit area after the 2nd run it does not want to get back down to the 200 area,

got ya..