yes decent square socket
a good long breaker bar and a length of scaffold with the car very well supported....
i found putting new ones in to be easier with the square head of the joint in a drill press vice, In the vice i have bolted to my bench. grease it get it started in, straight, by tapping and wiggling the arm down to the thread adjusting for straightness . pressure down using the big tube out of the kit and then winding the arm around it till the thread bites.......hard work
then mount on car and wind it in.
i found any action on the car for the first thread usually ended up with it wonky..... hence the 2 part process
kinda job that makes you sweat not due to the effort.....
needless to say i had armed
myself with a spare set of A arms before hand.... turns out they were not needed.
i have an A body front end rebuild tool kit..... its well useful
you are probably a bit far to borrow its heavy.... and you'd need the big socket i think
or make one its a square hole with a long thick metal stick welded to it..... my welding is bird poop and my supply of scrap is low so i purchased or acquired a kit off VIP steve when he was a member.
upper bushes i used the kit puller
lower bushes i burnt out and drilled out the rubber and then got and engineering shop to pull out the sleeves, then mount the new ones on the pins first and press the lot in paying particular attention to what needed to be pressed and what needed to be supported to avoid haste causing bent arm or busted bush.
when you put it all together do not do anything up tight
you want the nuts on the lower bush studs to keep them in position but you do not want the studs pulled into their friction based mounting ino the K frame yet. they stay still by wedging into a slight taper under the torque of the nut. and you want them to be able to rotate at the moment.
you want the uppers on the bolts but not clamped, use this opportunity to bend the upper mounts back to their original width. its going to be a fight to get the new bushes in between
you want the struts mounted up but the front nuts not done up just yet
set the suspension ride height to about 3-4 mm above what you want either at bump stop or the method in the book based on the bottom of the ball joint housing (it will settle)
jump up and down on the front bumper regularly then roll the car back and forth it will raise or lower itself if the tracking is miles out...be aware of this, and if it does it bounce it back to rest.
then do the lowers up tight
then do the struts up tight
then set the castor and camber
then do tracking
then set caster and camber again
that way the rubbers are in their natural unstressed position at ride height.
if you do all up tight with the wheels in the air you can ruin a new set of bushes by the time you get to the end of the street.
for the strut rubbers ignore the factory manual and follow the instructions in the kit.... Chrysler changed its mind across numerous editions of manuals across all models and years....
rubbers with metal sleeve/tube work on strut rods with no split pin, bottom the nut onto the sleeve and do up to torque (nylocks usually)
rubbers with no crush tube work in strut rods with split pin (do castle nut up to the point where you can get the split pin through.
follow the kit instructions for the cup washers....
moog improved comes with sleeves and split pins you can use both if facilities allow
do not lose your brand new strut bush rubbers or washers into the hole in the k-frame , you do not want to have to take k frame off to get it out.
Dave