Mopar Muscle Association UK

Okay, I'm looking to drop the rear of my 70 Charger by an inch or so. I know that I can get good ol' fashioned lowering blocks, but I've noticed that you can buy front spring hanger mounts where the mounting holes are raised so that the spring sits higher in the car thereby lowering the car. Has anybody used these ? They look neat but I'm wondering if this would upset the pinion angle, given that the rear shackles are the same length.

they were standard fitment on Aussie RTs with the Track Pak

attached is the blue print for the A body hanger which may well be the same as a B body hanger, if it varies between models it will be in width

primarily designed to allow you to tweak car from oversteer to understeer for specific tracks
provided all else, front and rear was at standard spec (RACE SET UP)

they will certainly give a smidge of adjustability

you are making a similar adjustment to height of rear that carrying a heavy suitcase would....should be alright


Dave

Pete Walton just fitted some to his car, not sure where to get them.

MattH wrote: ↑Tue Sep 22, 20 10:18 am Pete Walton just fitted some to his car, not sure where to get them.

FirmFeel sell them.

I made my own but not fitted yet as we're not at that stage.

Not much help I know but Anton made mine, superb job.

viewtopic.php?f=16&t=45287&p=643077#p643077

This is Pete's thread, the box in the background says Mancini Racing, so that may be a help.

The easy and free solution is to turn the mounting brackets upside down. This gives about 1-1.5" lowering. You will just need to file the mounting holes in the body a fraction wider as the top/bottom studs are spaced differently.

I did this on my Challenger and it worked perfectly. Just check the Charger front brackets are similar (I'm sure they are) with the front leaf sprng mount offset from the centre of the bracket....(as per the pictures that ScottyDave posted)

fitted the firmfeel ones to both the satellite and charger and it does lower em about 1.5" but it does point the diff nose up a bit so worth checking after and if need be u can get thin wedges to nose it down a bit.
I don't recommend lowering blocks have the springs flattened out if you want to lower it more, Paddington springs can do it if need be

if you lower the backend you will increase positive castor at the front. this is good, + castor is good on these cars when fitted with radial tyres. lots is ok in a power steering car. but you wouldn't want to set a manual up with the maximum possible, unless you are built like the hulk or run 24:1 ratio steering.

Guys, thanks for your feedback.

Dave thanks for the info and blue prints; Mr Norm thanks for that tip.

I had heard of the "turn the hanger upside down " trick bit to be honest didn't fancy filing out loads of holes in my freshly painted frame!

On the other hand... It's a free fix so I may well go down that route.

I guess lowering blocks are OK for Mk 2 Cortinas...

Thanks again chaps!

I hear you on the freshly painted frame. I did mine before I rebuilt the car, but now I'm using narrowed mounts which have a n adjustment hole anyway. To be honest it's pretty hard not to chip the paint with the threads when maneuvering the brackets into position anyway!!