Mopar Muscle Association UK

This has been happening occasionally since I had new disks and pads fitted a while ago, especially on the right hand side, but is now happening more on the left hand side, and is getting more annoying! The inner brake pads seem to be rattling around every time there's a bump in the road, and making the annoying noise you hear in the video. Do you think the wrong pads were fitted, and which ones should I fit if so?

Please see short video presentation with sound on!:



Ta

take em out
smear the back with copper slip
put em back in again

but while the caliper is off check the runout on the disk and check the wheel bearings are done up to spec
something could be knocking the piston/pistons back to give more space between pads and disk than is strictly necessary
loose bearings or warped rotor


can' t tell what type of caliper you have but if they are girling/girlock style you will have 1 piston
the caliper head slides on a claw and the caliper head and pads are all held onto that claw by spring clip plates that bolt down with half head bolts half headed because they'd rub on the wheel,rim otherwise


check the spring plates have the springy bit pressing on the caliper head the plates can fall apart leaving the robust plate bit springless..

Grilocks also have a spring steel z shaped spring to stop pads rattling
if its missing all you will see is a raised stamped section for it to fit into/under in the back plate of each pad

the kelsey type caliper is a slider also but it uses pins and bushes that bolt into the outer face of the claw
its also has some anti rattle shenanigans but i can't remember what, having swapped mine in 2004 for girlock style

if you have girlock style i have a brand new set in the garage and i can photo what you should have in respect to anti rattle bits

i seem to also remember in some cases you need to gently shove new pads in, because some of them have a bent over section of back plate made deliberately a little too wide.. again to stop them clacking about

and early ones came with a shim, same shape as the exposed area of the back of the pad that sat on the piston. the shim is cut/pressed to act like a big wavy washer type set up its basically a spring, again to stop pads rattling if you have this shim coat both sides with copper slip and the metal back of the brake pad.

don't get it on anything else

Dave

i see they are new rotors

did you run them in
if they are 2 piece rotor studded onto hub they need a gentle run in
they also do if 1 piece hub and rotor but they don't tend to warp as much its harder to warp them

if the brakes work well enough and the peddle doesn't pulse under your foot they probably aren't warped. i.e might just be worrying you for no reason

Dave

Thanks for the replies Dave,

I'm not particularly worrying, just find the noise annoying! Yes they are new disks etc, as the old ones were badly scored. I doubt they are warped, having had warped disks on an old Mondeo, which felt horrible.

I found the part number on the back of the caliper, they are Kelsey-Hayes. Looking up the part number, which appears to be KH86166, I'm not sure they're correct for a '73 Challenger? I think they're supposed to have a retaining spring / clip as an anti-rattle device as you say, but it's not present, and I can't see where that would fit. It also seems to only act on the outer pads, whereas the 'loose' ones on mine are on the inside. They only move in a front-to-rear direction, not side-to-side (as you may be able to see in the youtube video), so not sure there's any problem with the piston / lack of shims etc in that direction. I might try putting copper grease on them anyway, to see if that helps.

Couple of pics:

Andy. Have you got the anti rattle springs on the pins that go through the pads.

Derek wrote: ↑Thu Apr 22, 21 7:51 pm Andy. Have you got the anti rattle springs on the pins that go through the pads.

I'm not sure exactly where they would fit, but no, I can't see any springs. I can see that springs are supplied with rebuild kits etc., but can't see where to buy them seperately, if that's what I need.

could be these missing www.521restorations.com - search :- cal 1960

kma176 wrote: ↑Fri Apr 23, 21 1:43 pm could be these missing www.521restorations.com - search :- cal 1960

Yep, I could buy the same kit (a bit cheaper) from my supplier, OER, but I don't want to spend that much when all I need is 2 of the springs!

yeah you have a bigger version of what i had
just haven't looked at them in 16 years

in 2004 for the aussie version you couldn't get a kit like that cal1960 kit i had no access to new pins or new bushes
so i swapped to 1974-> brakes .

anyway

CAL1970 kit is for 1970 or 71-72

if yours are genuine 1973 you need a kit with fewer parts (if they are 1970 or 71-72 different kits with more bits in)

like this 1973/4 specific kit https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/produc ... -74-b-_-e/

and as you appear to have pins you don't really need that kit so if you wanted just the bushes and springs rockauto can help

you can buy nylon bushes and the springs for $6 i chose raybestos form a list of kits mid price and I've had their brake stuff before


here
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 6PnozPw%3D


But none of that fixes your issue

so i wonder if you have 70 71 72 brakes on an 1973 car and you actually need these

https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/produc ... -70-b-_-e/
or
https://www.rosevillemoparts.com/produc ... -c-e-body/

they look like they fit on the pins press against the nylon bushing for the sliver version or a flat face on the claiper around the pin for the yellowed version and of course the pad........! stop it jigging about.

looks like the hooked U shaped bit fits downbehind the pad and is compressed, the U being necessary to allow it to go either side of the pin at maximum compresion while the O behind is around the pin

its a bit expensive to find out though as you might have 73 brakes and i don't know how to spot the difference
if i was taking a risk id get silver and tap em flat with a hammer if i needed to they appear to be pressed to fit around the end of one of the bushes


if anyone does know the differences between the calipers 70-74, you are good to go

copper slip might shut it up but as i say don't get it everywhere


Dave

Thanks for all that Dave! At least I know I can get the springs from RockAuto without the pins. I found someone selling the postioners on eBay, and although they're more expensive than the ones you linked to, they did provide a diagram of where they go:


...still not sure they'll stop the inner pad from moving backwards and forwards, as they don't appear to touch them?

I just took this video, which shows the inner pad seems to have too big a hole for the pin, so it moves back and forth. Not sure any of the springs or positioners I've seen would stop this?:



Edit: I think there might be a bushing missing. I'm thinking I might just squish some RTV sealant or similar into the hole either side of the pin, which would hopefully stop the rattle!

yep agreed the positioners are really about keeping the caliper centred onto the rotor, suppose it helps stop the caliper being biased to 1 pad or the other..

Mmm

do the pads both have the same sized holes and are they the same inner and outer? i.e have you got front in the back and vice versa

short of making a little bush for it.... yes stuck

unless combo of anti rattle springs and positioner just keeps the caliper tensioned slightly so that the pads are always driven against a hard stop, kinds seems wrong as the disks would get hot....



Dave