Mopar Muscle Association UK

That will do it.

Out of the factory there was a LONG clip that bridged the rubber pipe so it earthed through the fuel lines, but they usually corrode and rust away.

I thought that I better mention it as I assumed with the level of "work" you were having to do, the clip would have returned to the soil long ago and you would not be aware of the need for one or a replacement solution.

Oh no silly me… just realised that my idea to earth of f the tank would never work as obviously there’s a seal between the sender and the tank. Il strap an earth on to the fuel outlet, would that be okay? What’s normal practice here?

Thanks in advance

Pete wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 21 7:48 am That will do it.

Out of the factory there was a LONG clip that bridged the rubber pipe so it earthed through the fuel lines, but they usually corrode and rust away.

I thought that I better mention it as I assumed with the level of "work" you were having to do, the clip would have returned to the soil long ago and you would not be aware of the need for one or a replacement solution.

Saw your message after I posted mine mate… just to avoid confusion…

Chargingatchya wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 21 11:04 pm

RobTwin wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 21 10:32 pm My brother Stuarts just had our 69 Plymouth's tank out to reseal the sender unit so may be able to offer some advice on avoiding leaks which are very tricky to fix when the tanks up in-situ...

That would be kind! I do wonder if Iv done enough here

If you have a scan through this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=59929
I just made double sure that the sender and gasket was centred in the hole, and that the metal sealing ring was doing as much as it could to squash the gasket. I read quite a few forum threads that said the the 'new' rings available today aren't thick enough and don't seal up tight. But it's not just the thickness of the ring, but the height of the 'dimples' that clamp up under the tank flange.
So I made sure that the one I used had the biggest dimples and was tight and centered, I put about 5 litres of fuel in the tank and stood it up (out of the car) for 1/2 hour to make sure it didn't leak. Thanks Adrian for that tip.
The earth clip is shown on the pics in my thread. Not that our gauge is much good even with it fitted, that's probably the dash end tho.
I managed to get a reel of 5/16 kunifer next day from my local 'Bennetts' motor factors. A lot harder to flare than 3/16 mind!

Epic build btw.

Chargingatchya wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 21 7:55 am Oh no silly me… just realised that my idea to earth of f the tank would never work as obviously there’s a seal between the sender and the tank. Il strap an earth on to the fuel outlet, would that be okay? What’s normal practice here?

Thanks in advance

the metal ring that holds the sender tight against the rubber seal makes contact with the sender and tank so earthing the tank will work (provided the sender, ring and the tank's 'tabs' it fits under are clean and rust free).
neil.

Pete wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 21 11:38 pm Great work.

You need to ensure that the Sender unit is earthed or the gauge will not read correctly, you cannot rely it in just being in contact with the tank due to the gasket.

Oh thats interesting. mine has always read about half a tank low when it works at all. I assumed floats soggy and its on my nevernever list. Didnt think it could be simple as...

mygasser wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 21 9:07 pm

Chargingatchya wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 21 7:55 am Oh no silly me… just realised that my idea to earth of f the tank would never work as obviously there’s a seal between the sender and the tank. Il strap an earth on to the fuel outlet, would that be okay? What’s normal practice here?

Thanks in advance

the metal ring that holds the sender tight against the rubber seal makes contact with the sender and tank so earthing the tank will work (provided the sender, ring and the tank's 'tabs' it fits under are clean and rust free).
neil.

Doh! Of course! Doink!

Would you believe I’m an electrician by trade

Stu Twin wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 21 5:39 pm

Chargingatchya wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 21 11:04 pm

RobTwin wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 21 10:32 pm My brother Stuarts just had our 69 Plymouth's tank out to reseal the sender unit so may be able to offer some advice on avoiding leaks which are very tricky to fix when the tanks up in-situ...

That would be kind! I do wonder if Iv done enough here

If you have a scan through this thread:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=59929
I just made double sure that the sender and gasket was centred in the hole, and that the metal sealing ring was doing as much as it could to squash the gasket. I read quite a few forum threads that said the the 'new' rings available today aren't thick enough and don't seal up tight. But it's not just the thickness of the ring, but the height of the 'dimples' that clamp up under the tank flange.
So I made sure that the one I used had the biggest dimples and was tight and centered, I put about 5 litres of fuel in the tank and stood it up (out of the car) for 1/2 hour to make sure it didn't leak. Thanks Adrian for that tip.
The earth clip is shown on the pics in my thread. Not that our gauge is much good even with it fitted, that's probably the dash end tho.
I managed to get a reel of 5/16 kunifer next day from my local 'Bennetts' motor factors. A lot harder to flare than 3/16 mind!

Epic build btw.

Thanks for this definily has a lot of information I need. That’s brilliant!

Just for info. the sender is earthed like this, there is a spring clip that bridges the rubber hose on the sender, it goes from the hose nipple on the sender to the metal fuel line. The fuel line has a metal P clip around it and that's bolted to the body. You need a clean connection at all of those points for the fuel gauge to read, not a great idea. When fitting a new sender, I solder a wire onto the body of the sender and use a ring terminal under the fuel line bolt to earth it directly. The tank sits on rubber isolators and has a pad on the top so its electrically isolated from the body as such.

Blue wrote: ↑Tue Nov 16, 21 9:15 am Just for info. the sender is earthed like this, there is a spring clip that bridges the rubber hose on the sender, it goes from the hose nipple on the sender to the metal fuel line. The fuel line has a metal P clip around it and that's bolted to the body. You need a clean connection at all of those points for the fuel gauge to read, not a great idea. When fitting a new sender, I solder a wire onto the body of the sender and use a ring terminal under the fuel line bolt to earth it directly. The tank sits on rubber isolators and has a pad on the top so its electrically isolated from the body as such.

That's a good point Blue, my nice new shiny 3/8 hard lines have been fitted with several rubber insulated P clips. But it does still use some of the factory style spring clips that poke into the chassis rails. I never thought they'd be doing an earthing job - I bet they're not very well earthed what with a 50 year old chassis.
The tank flange does have a hole drilled in one rear corner and an earth wire to the body though. Not sure if this is standard?

Not seen a tank earth strap on a car before.

Blue wrote: ↑Tue Nov 16, 21 9:15 am Just for info. the sender is earthed like this, there is a spring clip that bridges the rubber hose on the sender, it goes from the hose nipple on the sender to the metal fuel line. The fuel line has a metal P clip around it and that's bolted to the body. You need a clean connection at all of those points for the fuel gauge to read, not a great idea. When fitting a new sender, I solder a wire onto the body of the sender and use a ring terminal under the fuel line bolt to earth it directly. The tank sits on rubber isolators and has a pad on the top so its electrically isolated from the body as such.

Thanks for this, soldering definitely sounds like a more reliable connection. Il be doing this and connecting direct to the body. I do like the idea of grounding through a P clip. Definitely tidier but the P clips I have are insulated and I’d like to keep them uniform throughout.

Awesome thread. I travel near St Albans from time to time so would be cool to stop by and see it.

James Vette wrote: ↑Thu Nov 18, 21 12:04 am Awesome thread. I travel near St Albans from time to time so would be cool to stop by and see it.

Thanks! Love a Mopar chat and you are welcome to check it out, I could talk about the project for hours and saves my wife am ear ache but although the threads called St Albans charger that’s only where the car comes from and what it was always known as. I am in Dartford in Kent

Okay guys now I’m asking for a little help! Is there anyone around Dartford that could help me work out a few things with the engine on my car? Or even advise here on this thread?

I am completely new to carbs and a few words of advice here would be great….

The charger was originally a 2BB car but it seems someone has installed a 4BB carb on it at some stage. I have now installed the fuel system. I heard the car running when I purchased the car but have not done anything with the engine amd drive train since Iv owned it. It has all new plugs on it except one which I will get too. When I heard it running it was backfiring but otherwise sounded quite healthy to be fair. I I’m hoping the backfire was to do with the plug that needs changing. There was also a fair amount of oil leaking.

I need to work out how to hook up the carb and get her running so I can figure where I stand with it. What’s good, what’s bad etc. I can even see a brand on the carb so if anyone is familiar with or please advise what I have.

A picture of the engine bay attached. I will take any advice, recommendations or views at this point. I’m completely new to the mechanics on these cars, so go easy