Mopar Muscle Association UK

How do I remove a blind roll pin from a Charger fuel cap, it only small so I can’t just screw in a screw and put it out.

You will need a Punch of the correct dimensions, otherwise you may distort the end and jam it in even harder.

Pete wrote: ↑Wed Jul 21, 21 8:32 pm You will need a Punch of the correct dimensions, otherwise you may distort the end and jam it in even harder.

can’t punch it out Pete, one end is blind

Sorry, I scan read it, maybe a stud extractor but I have not had a lot of luck with them.....

Anything on Youtube???

Can you not drill it out? or do you think you might damage the dodgy ally casting?

Nasty, looks like a bit of rust on the end in the first pic, so it's going to be tough old spring steel instead of softish stainless. You could try a stud extractor first, but don't wind it in to far or you'll expand the pin and make it even harder to pull. If it feels kike it's got a hold, get some mole grips on the extractor and try tapping it out. If not, and you have a suitable sized tap it might be worth trying to cut a few turns of thread inside it, then you could use a bit of studding or a screw to cobble up a sort of slide slide hammer to try and pull it out. Failing that try drilling it out. If the worst happens and the extractor, tap or drill break off in there, you'll have to mark up and drill the other side of the latch so you can punch it out and either live with the hole, or turn up a little bung in ally to fill it up again. When you buy a new roll pin, I'd try and get a stainless one.

Good point Dom, it probably is hardened.

Just another thought, why are you wanting to remove it? If it's to replace the spring because it's broken, you could try using a (probably sacrificial) par of electrical side cutters to chop out the spring coil by coil and then perhaps grip the exposed pin enough to pull it out far enough to get a grip on the end...

Some good ideas guys, thank you, I'll report back.

Small cutting wheel or diamond grinding bit in a Dremel to cut the spring if side cutters won't fit?

I had a similar task a few years ago on a motorbike. I took it to a local engineering firm who gave it to the shop apprentice to drill out in a pillar drill. He was supervised and did a great job. He ran a slightly smaller drill than the diameter of the pin in and the heat etc eventually loosened the pin and it began to spin with the drill. He kept it running and slowly withdrew the drill. The remains of the pin just fell off the drill. He logged everything as a 'project' for his qualification and I signed it for him. He also had a beer out of it as per the old rules

Heat it and cool it a few times

penetrateing oil for a few days

you need a punch that fits down its middle a pin punch with an inset end might work

although i have just used a ground down screwdriver in the past

you fill the hole with grease. normal wheel bearing grease anything you like, tune the thickness to the amount of leakage past your punch.....
you can't compress grease so it will come out....

you put the punch on top of the grease in the hole. and the punch needs to fit nicely in the hole

and you hit the punch with a masons hammer as hard as you bloody well can or dare....

wear glasses
you will have a lot of freckles by the time you are done
as some of it will come out of the split in the pin

hydraulic action will slowly raise the pin
repeat by re applying grease

and

either continue until it comes out
or if you want, just until till you have 1-2mm sticking out

then get a bit of steel angle drill a hole in its end

and when there is enough pin above the surface tack weld the pin end into the hole in your angle iron and slowly work it back and forth
the longer the angle iron the more leverage you have and the more likely you are to snap the pin

if it snaps back to grease

if its a true roll pin you won't be drilling it... they are rock hard. well.... so hard in comparison to the surrounding pot metal that you risk pocketing the hole and doing no damage to the pin...I think you would need it mill it..set up correctly and perfectly with a tiny milling tool

this method works for open ended bearing races in blind holes, helped a fitter in a lead rolling mill sort out some stuff years ago and was amazed at the effectiveness of this method, we got out a couple of 2.5 or 3 inch races that had been in-situe since the 1930s he had the bright ideas and i played the part of "youngun ... you are going to hit that that big chunk of metal we just "turned up" over and over again with the biggest hammer you can find"

the split in the pin might be an issue, but some ingeniousness with the THING you use as your punch may see you right, hence the idea of re purposing that screwdriver, covered in paint, that as a bloke, you are legally required to own.... grind off the end and make the shaft pear shaped on yer grinder so it fills in some of the split.

usual caveat..... this could be a very very rubbish idea

BUT i have used it to good effect.... but not on a roll pin


Dave