Floyd Brothers 70 Challenger

[Dave999]

the electrical diagrams look horrible

best bet is to print off a copy and slowly highlight the wire you are interested in, highlighter/boss marker across the internal and under bonnet diagram
use wire colours to identify pins on each plug and socket that it goes through and write them on the diagram

each wire on the diag will have things like Bl/p or wh/O or R to idicate blue with pink trace white with orange trace or just RED

some wires change colur at the socket hence the need to write the pin outs down.



Dave

[Blue]

The coloured A3 diagrams are pretty easy to work from. I’ve had one on the workshop wall for years, was just referring to it the other day.

[Dave999]

yes i agree A3 is easier than wearing reading glasses and normal glasses at the same time, to try to read.

didn't used to be a problem but now it is

luckily the americans speak/write in english and its typeset properly if tiny small

try following an itallian or french or spanish diagram with wire colours in notation form and not englaise ..... verde yeah ok got that blancho yeah ok etc etc espcecially if the notation is in cursive script

bleedin nightmare


Dave

[Stu]

if its some kind of sealed capilary tube with themometer mercury or alcohol in it yes it will

the sender is supposed to supply the heat that mades the liquid inisde expand and move the pointer. you will be getting heat from the heads as well. so gauge will always read as a combination of heat from the water at the sender and heat from the head.

Yes, that was my thought process, but as Miles said, can’t really see where else to run it. Maybe I’ll see if I can find something to lift it, similar to wire separators or something.

I’ll likely end up investing in the colour wiring diagram at some point, but it just pains me with shipping etc how much that is for a laminated A3. I guess I’ll just have to look at it as an investment in time and stress saving.

In the meantime, I’ve found a tach bracket but no cup unless I want to pay £100 ish to get one sent from the states, so still searching. The bracket isn’t likely to get here for a while, so plenty of time to learn to solder. Need to mount that first really Before I can finish the gauges, as the wiring will be much easier to connect with them out.

I hate not being able to get on with stuff, drives me nuts. Waiting for paint to dry and parts to arrive. The good news is, the wrinkle paint was just as easy for the front of the plate, so that’s done now other than waiting another day to let it really harden.

[Blue]

Don’t sweat the capillary tube, you don’t need to accurately know the coolant temperature to the degree , cold, normal or omigod is fine for the average road car.

[Stu]

Don’t sweat the capillary tube, you don’t need to accurately know the coolant temperature to the degree , cold, normal or omigod is fine for the average road car.

Ok, fair enough. I’ll just worry about a tidier hole to poke it through in that case, rather than the sharp rusty metal edges it’s all fed through at the moment.

Don’t suppose you have any lovely old tach cups sitting around in your old school stash you’d be willing to part with, do you? I know you’re the man for day 2 stuff.

[Blue]

Sorry fella I’m all out of tach cups. One of these with a suitable sized grommet is the neatest and safest way to pass wires through sheet metal.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294305579592

[Stu]

Was worth a try!

Was there a link to go with that? Ta.

[Blue]

Corrected!

[Stu]

Nice for a wish list, but on current funds, think I’ll persevere with hole saws and deburring. Thanks for the link though. Need to save my pennies for the parts I need.

Grommets I’ve got plenty of.

[Dave999]

if you find a cup shaped .stl file that is the right diameter i could probably print one in black
after my success with camping chair parts maybe i should extend my printing to somethig a little more worthwhile, well its my sons printer but he won't notice


what is the diameter of the gauge and will it fit in a hemisphere? or tube

i also need to print an R/T horn trumpet so will need to buy black placcy

look up gauge pod.stl in google and see if you find anything

i mightbe able to scle this to fit.. dunno how to do it but tinternet will tell me

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d ... -pod-72597

can't promise but could give something a go. might look a bit chewed, i haven't got round to printing anything smooth yet its an art i haven't been arsed to become aquainted with... tidy printing
can allways be filled sanded and coated with VHT shrinkle wrinkle paint
or indeed flocked....


Dave

[Stu]

Dave, that’s very good of you, thank you Fella, but think I’ve solved my cup problem.

Now if you could print a dash pad…

[Dave999]

they can be fixed

but you need to find a company with a massive vacuum forming machine

grind the crack out fill it

cut vinyl to shape glue it and suck it on with the big machine. think they position it and place a big rubber sheet over and suck it down under large inverse pressure.

then hand glue and trim the edges

i gave up looking, everyone wanted to know how many hundred I wanted done if i could have found say 50 people with the same dash pad all wanting the same colour and grain it might have been possible. basically a Business to business service...

ended up buying a pad in bad condition in Oz and sending it to the dashboard doctor in melbourne (i have a very distant familiy link with UTIcolor the company that supplied the dashboard Drs franchise and materials) he has a big vacuum forming machine

came in to UK sombodys house moving container

other options

https://rubnrestore.com/how-to/repair-cracked-dash/

Dave

[Stu]

Cheers Dave. That’s back of my list at the moment, just that I am looking at it a lot whilst doing this and it’s bugging me. I’ll get to it at some point, but think that will be after I’ve worried about straightening the back end where it’s been pushed in.

Plate should be cured by tonight, so will test fit the gauges again. Very pleased with the finish against the trim, looking forward to seeing what it looks like against the ribbed finish on the dash.

[Stu]

Planning to get the gauges in and plumbed tomorrow, all being well.

Quick question on the water temp gauge, at the manifold / sensor end of the capillary tube, does this need sealing in somehow when connected? I dunno, ptfe tape or a blob of something, or is it fine as is? Take it I’ll have to drain the coolant half way or similar.