Mopar Muscle Association UK

Asking for a friend.

This is the plan that he is following to do the job and has asked if this is correct. Any advice? Not something I’ve done!

Also, where would the voltmeter splice in?

Ta!

yeah thats ok

he should connect the red lead of his volt meter to any switched 12volt feed under the dash
or the switched section of the fuse box

black lead to ground

dave

however my views on this are contrary to some others... which seem to be a little pessemistic,

YOU MUST DO THIS or you will die in a fire...

which obviously has not happend to the previous owners for 50+ years

In my opinion you don't need to.

if the ammeter is good
has not been over heated
has had the nuts and spikey washers checked and a drop of weak locktite applied
and your system is standard
standard battery
standard alternator
no electric fans
no electic pumps
10 watt radio
bulkhead connector not burned or melted
loom is good and has been Un ****** after the previous owner applied scotchlock shannanigans

why mess about with something that works.

overheating to the point of plastic melting, or pulling and yanking at the ammeter cables is what knackers the insulation around the studs causing a short

if its all good and you want to run BIG current suckers.... run the cable from the alternator to the starter stud and leave it at that
ammeter still in circuit but will not see any great current anymore and will not move from the middle

cable in your new things via a new suitably sized loom from the battery or additional fuse box incorporating a relay to control the new fusebox from the key swicth, the spare fuse slot on the main box is usually switched on by the key in "on" and "run"
just run a wire up front from there to switch on your relay(s)

original stuff fed via battery feed into car
new stuff fed directly from battery/ new alternator connection via its own new wires

job done and all easily reversible.

Dave

Ta muchly! Passed on.

Pinocchio!

Who, me?!

Nope, it really was for a friend.