Strut Rod Bush?

[Stu Twin]

I need to replace the tired rubber bushes as per photo. They’re on our 63 Polara. Rod between the LCA and K member.
I want to make sure I’m buying the correct part, Without removing them I can’t see what the rubber part looks like, and I’m not sure if there is a metal spacer tube as well?
Or is it just 2 bushes & 2 washers per side?
Going by the description in the FSM I found these:

https://www.classicindustries.com/shop/ ... rut%20bush

[Mick70RR]

Those washers are the wrong way round.

[Pete]

Mick is right, just buy Urethane bushes and re-use the washers.

[Dave999]

the washers may be the correct way round for the year of the car and the rubber that was fitted

if you look across a range of manuals you will find that chrysler changed their mind about 50,000 times over the 60s and 70s across early and late A and B bodies

the age of the car would normally have had a castle nut and split pin
yours appears to have a lock nut

castle nut and split pin bushes tend to have no metal spacer, you do up the nut until you can fit the split pin and not much more....
lock nut bushes have a spacer. if they didn't you would not know how tight to do em up.

moog problem solver bushes have a lock nut and spacer and you used to be able to get them to fit early and late cars

moog bushes come with instructions that indicate the orientation of the washers for that specific set of bushes and it may contradict what is in the manual for the original set of bushes, depends on dimensions and hardness of bush.

i do not know if the B body went through the same changes as the A body in respect to two styles of strut rod

A body has short tread to collar strut rods and long thread to collar strut rods mixing the style of bushes up causes problems with alignment

check carefully for B body if you use fat bushes on a short thread strut rod you push the lower arm back and can't get any positive castor

you can use lock nut and spacer bushes on a split pin castle nut strut rod, just don't expect to be able to fit the now pointless split pin

obviously castle nut and split pin on the lock nut style strut rod won't work.... you have no lokcing mechanism unless you drill a hole and you wont' know where to drill without a strut rod to compare.

in an ideal world you mark the position of the lower arm on the floor before replacement and check after....if its still in the same place base of lower balljoint to floor all is OK

Dave

[Stu Twin]

Thanks for the replies chaps.
I mainly wanted to know if I had the terminology correct for these bushes as there seems to be several types of bush come up when searching for 'Strut Rod Bush'. As Dave says, change of design would explain that.
There's no hole for a pin through any part of the thread. In fact the driver side bush is retained by an extra locknut. Not exactly sure why, they either lost one from the pass side, or just fitted a spare nut to the driver side because they had one knocking about.

My FSM has a very small scale diagram so it's difficult to see any indication of what way round the washer should be. I'll have another look.
I've got the 69 to compare to though I'm pretty sure they're the same.

I suppose if I measure where the locknut is now, I could back it off to see what's behind the washer. Spacer or no spacer.

[Blue]

It’s usually just a 2 piece bush with no spacer. No lock nut either.

[Stu Twin]

Thanks mate.
Would urethane (poly?) make much difference compared to OEM rubber on just these 2 bushes? I’m not changing any others at this point.

[Blue]

I’ve never had any luck with poly strut rod bushes fitting properly so I use rubber.

[Stu Twin]

Thanks again.

[morgan]

I did all these on my Charger so will have the invoice/description kicking around somewhere if thats any good.

Edit - Scratch that. Wrong car. I thought it was t'other one.