360 engines

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Wed Aug 02, 06 12:04 am

Check out the compatibility of the 904 box on the 273. You'll probably find the 360 needs a 727 box (or did you get the box as well?) the 727 is longer than the 904 so your prop will need cutting and shutting.

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Wed Aug 02, 06 12:20 am

If you've got a chocolate 7 1/4" or Oz Borg Warner equivalent then it might just get you out of your drive!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 02, 06 3:01 am

A bod 8 3/4

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Wed Aug 02, 06 6:44 am

Dougie, this is quite useful:
http://www.mopar1.us/dyno.html

I built a 360 last year and it will transform your car. I kept mine fairly low comp and used Comp cams XE262HE grind. This produced a very tractable engine that can be cruised or thrashed. if i did it againi would go for higher comp Keith black pistons (about£250 i think) and a 268 cam or one of the Hughes engines cams.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 02, 06 9:16 am

I think the problem theyre possibly on about is the diff, apparently very difficult to remove and replace, and limited on choice for the Aussie axel - is this correct my Valiant friends

How did you deal with your diff Kev (without giving any secrets away!)?

Trigger_Andy · Post by **Trigger_Andy** » Wed Aug 02, 06 10:28 am

Hey Dougie,
was that the 360 outta the Motorhome on eBay? If it is Im glad someone got it as Im saving all my money for a new Mopar just now.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 02, 06 11:25 am

There are plenty of diffs available for the Borg Warners both LSD and GAY (open), since the company that made them originally still offers them. However they are all on the other side of the planet and postage ain't cheap.

Although the 8 3/4 requires a bit of tinkering to fit in the Borgy's place, it is much stronger and pumpkins are more available over here.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 02, 06 11:44 am

Ive heard these diffs are alot more difficult to swap about than the US axles (was told they are alot more integral with the axel), is this correct JB?

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 02, 06 12:57 pm

Hi Dougie

I'm green here, only just joined, but I hope this proves useful.

I recently got a book from the states "How to hot rod smallblock mopar engines". Its absolutely fantastic and gives you loads of detailed technical (boring, stroking, decking - The lot !) and background info specific to all A & LA(Lightweight) series smallblocks. Its also great because it lets u know whats compatible between the different engines and whats not.

Did u know you can get a 4 inch crank for a 360cid off the shelf (States job), and make it into 402 cubes without boring ?

You can get it from "Year one" in the states or better still try "Real Steel" in the UK - They deffo have it.

Get it - Its goooood

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Aug 02, 06 1:24 pm

mmm stroking

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Wed Aug 02, 06 5:29 pm

CP! 8 3/4 has a central pumpkin which is just unbolted after the halfshafts are removed. A banjo style axle. The 7 1/4, 8 1/4 and 9 1/4(Dana) have the gears in the axle housing so you have to "spread" it to get the gears out. Is this what you are getting at?
All the info is here;
http://www.autohobbydigest.com/a-rearend.html