Dave Robsons Challenger R/T
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- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
Can't operate one outboard without the other Ivor. So it is all mapped out on the center carb only and then both outers are added into the mix and played with to maintain mixture under all conditions.
The meter records up to 44 mins worth of data (at 12 samples/second) for downloading to the pc so I should be able to get some different types of runs in.
At the moment I can only record air/fuel and RPM. But you can have 6 inputs showing in total.
I would like to record vacuum as well using a map sensor but to use that I need a constant 5v source from somewhere to power the sensor. I have not figured that out yet. It looks like there there could be a 5v output on the serial interface connector on the meter.
Vacuum would be nice because I would be able to see at what point of richness manifold vacuum ceases to increase. Which will tell be the point at which to stop going rich.
I also want to see what is happening to manifold vacuum under the conditions where I want the power valve to open.
Throttle position would be nice too to help with this but I have no idea how I would go about sorting that one out.
The cool thing about this kit is it can be used on ANY car. You can just clamp the wideband O2 sensor up the tail pipe on cars without cats.
The meter records up to 44 mins worth of data (at 12 samples/second) for downloading to the pc so I should be able to get some different types of runs in.
At the moment I can only record air/fuel and RPM. But you can have 6 inputs showing in total.
I would like to record vacuum as well using a map sensor but to use that I need a constant 5v source from somewhere to power the sensor. I have not figured that out yet. It looks like there there could be a 5v output on the serial interface connector on the meter.
Vacuum would be nice because I would be able to see at what point of richness manifold vacuum ceases to increase. Which will tell be the point at which to stop going rich.
I also want to see what is happening to manifold vacuum under the conditions where I want the power valve to open.
Throttle position would be nice too to help with this but I have no idea how I would go about sorting that one out.
The cool thing about this kit is it can be used on ANY car. You can just clamp the wideband O2 sensor up the tail pipe on cars without cats.
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
I know a couple of people that use it Steve. That is how I ended up with this one because one guy upgraded to the latest version.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
I already had my car well tuned with the normal narrowband type sensor but tuning is much easier with this system. In particular if you have a rich or lean spot at one point on a run or under certain conditions.
Every log you make can be played back in real time. It is sensative enough to clearly show if any one cylinder does not fire (shows up as a sharp lean spike due to the oxygen not being burnt) and is easily calibrated for any fuel, induction type, and even NOS.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/
I already had my car well tuned with the normal narrowband type sensor but tuning is much easier with this system. In particular if you have a rich or lean spot at one point on a run or under certain conditions.
Every log you make can be played back in real time. It is sensative enough to clearly show if any one cylinder does not fire (shows up as a sharp lean spike due to the oxygen not being burnt) and is easily calibrated for any fuel, induction type, and even NOS.
- mopar_mark
- Posts: 6738
- Joined: Fri Jul 14, 06 8:01 pm
- Location: Windlesham, Surrey
Throttle Position Sensors (TPS) but as you say Pete a potentiometer, mine works on 0-5v, zero being off throttle and is postioned on the throttle/blades linkage.Pete wrote:For throttle I think you would need a potentiometer either fixed to the pedal, or more likely the throttle linkage somehow.
Bit off a poor photo I afraid
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- IMG00015.jpg (132.15 KiB) Viewed 787 times
"I spent a lot of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I just squandered."
Mark, id take that to bed with me too if it was mine
Might look into getting one, where did you get yours Dave ?
TPS 0-5 v is all thats needed, you can also get a little box to trick it into thinking it has WOT earlier....for racing....well you can for the GN so i guess its universal

Might look into getting one, where did you get yours Dave ?
TPS 0-5 v is all thats needed, you can also get a little box to trick it into thinking it has WOT earlier....for racing....well you can for the GN so i guess its universal
Last edited by AllKiller on Sat Sep 27, 08 1:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
ALL KILLER NO FILLER
Nostalgia, its not what it used to be.
Carbon footprint of a Saturn V

Nostalgia, its not what it used to be.
Carbon footprint of a Saturn V

how much power will the MAP sensor draw from its 5V source ? You can use a 7805 regulator IC to give you a constant 5V source rated at up to about 1.5A. Very simple, and costs about 50p
http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/psu_5v.html
http://cpc.farnell.com/SC05404/componen ... cs-l7805cv
be sure to use a good heatsink if you're drawing much current.
http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/psu_5v.html
http://cpc.farnell.com/SC05404/componen ... cs-l7805cv
be sure to use a good heatsink if you're drawing much current.
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
They don't draw much current at all Matt and that is a VERY useful link for me THANKS!Matt wrote:how much power will the MAP sensor draw from its 5V source ? You can use a 7805 regulator IC to give you a constant 5V source rated at up to about 1.5A. Very simple, and costs about 50p
http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/psu_5v.html
http://cpc.farnell.com/SC05404/componen ... cs-l7805cv
be sure to use a good heatsink if you're drawing much current.
The LM-1 meter has 6 inputs as I said. Air/Fuel and RPM are fixed but the other four can be ANY map sensor that uses a 5v source.
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
This is the actual meter I have.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
A mate has sourced me a vacuum sensor for free.
A throttle position sensor would be ideal because then I would know the point on the graph where the outer carbs open.
But how I would fit one to my six pack I can't quite figure out. Maybe a couple of plastic gears and a pot mounted on the passenger side of the center carb throttle shaft??
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php
A mate has sourced me a vacuum sensor for free.
A throttle position sensor would be ideal because then I would know the point on the graph where the outer carbs open.
But how I would fit one to my six pack I can't quite figure out. Maybe a couple of plastic gears and a pot mounted on the passenger side of the center carb throttle shaft??

- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
This is the sort of data you can get from it.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/prod ... gworks.php
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/prod ... gworks.php
- Dave-R
- Posts: 24752
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 04 11:23 pm
- Location: Dave Robson lives in Geordieland
- Contact:
Back in the garage at long last.
At the same tme as welding in a exhaust bung for the wideband oxygen sensor I also wanted to correct the angle of one of my exhaust cut-outs.
When I made the exhaust I accidently welded one pointing a bit lower than the other. So I just wanted to cut that section out and turn it up slightly. I have little ground clearance as it is and even 3/4-inch more is better. I just have to weld back the pipe from the cut-out to the muffler now but this is enough for today.
At the same tme as welding in a exhaust bung for the wideband oxygen sensor I also wanted to correct the angle of one of my exhaust cut-outs.
When I made the exhaust I accidently welded one pointing a bit lower than the other. So I just wanted to cut that section out and turn it up slightly. I have little ground clearance as it is and even 3/4-inch more is better. I just have to weld back the pipe from the cut-out to the muffler now but this is enough for today.
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- There is it weded up and ready for the next section to be welded on. Maybe tomorrow.
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- After tacking the cut-out back on I double checked for fit this time BEFORE final welding.
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- Note the sensor sits at the 2 o'clock position to keep it away from any moisture running down the pipe. This is just past the H-Pipe behind.
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- Welded.
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- Bung is 25mm. I cut a 24mm hole and hand filed to a tight fit. That is the H-pipe you can see there and not the cut-out.
- IMG_2726.jpg (94.62 KiB) Viewed 640 times