Honest opinions on my chassis-work please...

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Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

Can it go behind the axle?

If you can't use different thicknesses to tune the ARB stiffness you can use different length parallel arms, this changes the moment placed on the torsion bar thus changing the force. But that does mean you need to come up with a variable mounting position as well.

I know what you are saying about the setup being stiff, however there is a difference between you pushing the suspension up and down and a 1000Nm torque loading from an engine through a 2T car pushing on it.

Perhaps try it without the ARB then attach it and see if you notice a difference in the roll stiffness of the car.
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db
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Post by db »

I know there'll be a solution in there somewhere i just ain't found it yet ;)
Had a day off it today but i'll try again tomorrow.
Thanks for the suggestions and info mate, keep it coming please :thumbright:
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db
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Post by db »

"Can it go behind the axle?"

Yes it can :thumbright: Bit of jiggery-pokery required but i'm used to that by now :roll:
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Post by db »

As there's gonna be more junk behind the axle now, today i'm cutting out the old shock top-mount-crossmember, welding in the new one (2 7/8" higher) and fitting the shocks- that way i know i won't put the arb in the way :thumbright:
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Post by Cannonball »

Russcharger69 wrote:Hi db

I know it's a dirty word on here but i have a GL and i'm liking the idea of a cage, where/who did you get yours from :thumbright: Thanks

db wrote:
Bratfink wrote:Unless you have diagonal bars linking the corners of the car you are always going to have chassis twist. I would bet that is going to be a lot stiffer than the original setup though.
I have a cage which is goes thru to the frame rails, should do the trick?
a GL WHAT ??? capri cortina granada???? :D :D
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db
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Post by db »

:laughing3:

My cage was home-made when the car was still in the States so can't help you there Russ sorry.

Progress... 2 foot gash cut across trunk floor, New shock top-mount fabricated and welded in, ready to bolt in shocks 8-)
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Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

db wrote::laughing3:

My cage was home-made when the car was still in the States so can't help you there Russ sorry.

Progress... 2 foot gash cut across trunk floor, New shock top-mount fabricated and welded in, ready to bolt in shocks 8-)
It looked like this then :thumbright:
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Post by db »

Haven't seen those in ages :thumbright: Andy sent me a disc with loads of old pics from when he had the car with the Hemi, Lenco, etc.

Latest progress pics (dodgy quality from my phone sorry!)
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Post by db »

I've lost the pics showing the gaping hole i had to cut in my perfectly good trunk floor but here's one with it welded back up, x-member peeking through, and some of the job done :thumbright:
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Post by Ivor »

Loving your work, sir! :thumbright:
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Post by db »

Cheers Ivor :D

Get a load o this weekends efforts mate...

The top bars of the 4-link were gonna seriously interfere with the floor so Mr Grinder and Miss Welder came out to play. There's enough clearance for the shocks to bottom out in all 4-link adjustment points.
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Post by db »

More...
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Anonymous

Post by Anonymous »

I've been having similar discussions with the guys that run the 32 at Bonneville about the suspension bottoming out.
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Post by db »

I've made the mistake once. For this bit i bolted everything in place but left the springs off the shocks. I put the 4-link bars in the extreme positions and raised the axle til the shocks bottomed.
Nothing fouled anything else so... jobs a goodun :thumbright:


Last pic- You'd hardly know it wasn't original.... ;)
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