Bore advice please

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Feb 16, 09 9:59 pm

Stu wrote:
This is the practice piece, to get the motor back on the road quickly and learn from. The 400 comes next.

Good stuff , the 2nd build will be a walk in the park.

MilesnMiles · Post by **MilesnMiles** » Tue Feb 17, 09 8:51 am

Stu, off thread a bit, but there is a 400 stroker kit on Eurodragster for £1500 if that is part of your plan

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Feb 17, 09 11:11 am

Wow that looks like similar water damage that my big block suffered from (see pics Phill 440's 440)

You can see from my pics that after honing the damage remained so my only option was to go for a re-bore. Shame yours is a small block as I have a brand new set of +30 pistons to shift

Be interesting to see the outcome!

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Tue Feb 17, 09 11:32 am

stu, take jim up on his offer whip the block over to him swift honing in each cylinder jobs done dont worry about that bit off pittin remember your only building a budget mtr to see you through that cylinder wont even know them pits are there,
jeez yrs ago we just wafted the cylinders with some course emery cloth to get rings to seat when reringing somethin. which is what your doing,
save all the money/Bananarama! yerself/heartache for your 400
get yer arse to jims n dont panic, that water mark is from standin water not a crack,

Stu · Post by **Stu** » Tue Feb 17, 09 2:40 pm

Yep, Dunc. I think you're right.

Van sorted, off to Jim's on Sunday for a bit of a hone.

Canonball wrote:jeez yrs ago we just wafted the cylinders with some course emery cloth to get rings to seat when reringing somethin. which is what your doing

Funnily enough, that's what I used to try and rub it away.

that water mark is from standin water not a crack

Thought it probably was, but being a novice, wondered if it was possible to corrode from the other side, if you know what I mean.

Miles, thank's for that, but as skint as Big Jack McSkint at the moment.

Parts bins is where it's at for us at the mo!

Phil, I'll have a read through, but I'm hoping honing will do it in this case, doesn't look anything like as bad as yours did!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Feb 17, 09 9:45 pm

Shame the water damage is near the top , if it were lower down (before intake valve closure) it would'nt matter so much

.

If it don't clean up with a hone & a rebore is out the question then stick some gapless 2nds in there.

.............

Stu · Post by **Stu** » Wed Feb 18, 09 8:03 am

Gapless seconds, Adam?

Going to need that in Eejit novice speak, I'm afraid!

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Feb 18, 09 11:14 am

If the bores remain pitted after honing blowby will be an issue , using gapless 2nd piston rings eliminate blowby to a greater degree than conventional rings , so whatever blowby you eliminate is gotta be a good thing in this situation.

Stu , gapless use a two piece ring , the bottom part of the ring is similar to an oil rail & installed 180* appart on the ring groove , hence no gap as to speak.
You gotta get a set of rings anyhows , so no big deal.

As Dunc says , no big deal , but every little helps & gapless would be my choice , as said , shame the pitting is near the top of cylinder.

Stu · Post by **Stu** » Wed Feb 18, 09 6:18 pm

Gotcha

Sorry... need these explanations until I get used to it all.

Gapless rings sounds like the way forward Adam. Thank's for the advice!