db wrote:Surely all i need to do is measure the approx damper cirumference.
Cut an arc out of card with 0* to say, 60* marked on it in maybe 5* increments.
Find exact TDC with a piston-stop.
Hold this against my damper and transfer the marks onto the damper with white paint.
?
Or wait for Ade to fix his fancy-ass timing light
Fancy -ass timing light is now fixed & available for collection
1968Polara383 wrote:Im feeling like a goldfish in a tank of piranahs!! My fault cos im a bit fick!! I understand the basics of stock timing and Ive got it in my head whats going on in the engine, on a really fundamental level. Can anyone point me to a good laymans read on this subject please?? Also, ive got a basic timing light, a small digital tacho that you point at the flywheel to set RPM and i can see my timing mark and bracket ok. I cant find an explanation of the marks on my bracket anywhere.... Are they at 2 deg, 5 deg intervals, which one is TDC?? Keen to learn but quite daunting without a pro standing next to me showing me what to do. My engine is a completely stock, original 383 4bbl with original timing bracket, and, at this time, i just want to learn how to check its still ok more as a diagnostic tool than anything else till I learn more and get more experience.
Sorry if this should be a new thread but the answers being posted are very relevant to this query, i think!
I would'nt worry Steve..........Your not the only one!
Dave Tildesley.....MMA-081
72 Dodge Dart
73 Plymouth Duster - SOLD
I wanna go so FAST i think i'm going to DIE!..........Then i'll shift into second!
"My Car is a work in progress, Probably never gonna get finished, never gonna have the money to Bananarama!!"
1968Polara383 wrote: My engine is a completely stock, original 383 4bbl with original timing bracket, and, at this time, i just want to learn how to check its still ok more as a diagnostic tool than anything else till I learn more and get more experience.
Sorry if this should be a new thread but the answers being posted are very relevant to this query, i think!
The simple answer is that the original timing settings don't work with modern fuel. You need a lot of initial advance to clean up the exhaust and to stop your clothes and hair stinking of fumes every time you have been out in the car.
Plus the original settings had to take into account starting in extreme US weather conditions. Anything from +40 C to -40C.
It gets worse if the engine has been modified at all. Bigger cams need more initial timing.
Every engine is different so just plug the vacuum advance and then advance the distributor until the engine revs level off. That is how the engine tells you what initial advance it wants. It is just a matter of then restricting the amount of advance the distributor gives so that you don't get too much at higher rpms.
Then the car will start much easier and with less throttle. When hot you will not even have to touch the throttle. It will start like a modern car and stop smelling as if it is running rich. It will also feel much more "keen" on the throttle response.
That sounds really simple and the symptoms you describe fit my car perfectly! Its almost as if shes running rich all the time... I understand what you have described... Put simply, how do I restrict the amount of advance the distributer gives?? What does restricting the advance mean/ do? I need and love simple!! Thanks for the link, will give it a read
Yeah, doh! Ive just read it.... Bit scary at the mo but will read it all again and print it off then have a go when I feel more confident. Thanks gents, appreciate it,
Forgot to ask, I use superunleaded Shell fuel with castrol valvemaster plus additive... Would you recommend sticking with this then sorting out the timing to suit or just using super unleaded?
You could probably run fine on straight regular premium unleaded. It is a stock engine right? You only need super unleaded if you have a high compression engine.
I wouldn't bother with additives either. Unless you are expecting to put another 50K miles on it over the next few years?
But yes. Adjust the timing with the fuel you intend to use.
Thanks for advice, my stock compression on my 383 4bbl is down as 10:1 so hot sure if this is classed as high comp or not....I know its not by the specs of some cars on here!! Ive been in touch with Jon at FBO who is going to get me one of those variable plates and Im going to give it a go!
1968Polara383 wrote:Thanks for advice, my stock compression on my 383 4bbl is down as 10:1 so hot sure if this is classed as high comp or not....I know its not by the specs of some cars on here!! Ive been in touch with Jon at FBO who is going to get me one of those variable plates and Im going to give it a go!
Cheers Steve
PS what is kick back??
Its when the engine cant turn over & kicks back. When you adjust the dizzy too much & try to start her up the penny will drop.
1968Polara383 wrote: My engine is a completely stock, original 383 4bbl with original timing bracket, and, at this time, i just want to learn how to check its still ok more as a diagnostic tool than anything else till I learn more and get more experience.
Sorry if this should be a new thread but the answers being posted are very relevant to this query, i think!
The simple answer is that the original timing settings don't work with modern fuel. You need a lot of initial advance to clean up the exhaust and to stop your clothes and hair stinking of fumes every time you have been out in the car.
Plus the original settings had to take into account starting in extreme US weather conditions. Anything from +40 C to -40C.
It gets worse if the engine has been modified at all. Bigger cams need more initial timing.
Every engine is different so just plug the vacuum advance and then advance the distributor until the engine revs level off. That is how the engine tells you what initial advance it wants. It is just a matter of then restricting the amount of advance the distributor gives so that you don't get too much at higher rpms.
Then the car will start much easier and with less throttle. When hot you will not even have to touch the throttle. It will start like a modern car and stop smelling as if it is running rich. It will also feel much more "keen" on the throttle response.
Thanks for keeping it basic Dave, i know how frustrating it can be when you've explained the same thing as many times as you have. We'll get there in the end
Ade- thanks mate i'll let you know.
Meanwhile... who needs timing tape and fancy-ass timing lights?
Just some white gloss spray, a tape measure, a calculator and a black marker pen. Sorted
We also have here a d.i.y. piston-stop. I broke the centre electrode out of an old plug. I rounded-off a 7/16 bolt with a grinder and Araldited it in the hole. Did the job perfectly.
Attachments
Piston stop 01.jpg (231.79 KiB) Viewed 1366 times
Damper timing marks 01.jpg (144.73 KiB) Viewed 1366 times
Thanks for all this info gents and feel a bit bad that Ive obviously got you to go over old ground again!! Sorry!! Realising now that 'stickys' cover a lot of stuff that is worth refering to before getting lost in a thread and asking old questions! I bought my car initially to just polish and enjoy driving but since Ade Worman helped me with my electronic ignition, Ive become interested in trying to get a grip of things like timing, carbs etc and not relying on the Gods to shine down on me when things go wrong.
Last pics posted have kicked up a ton of questions in my head but I will explore the stickys before I ask
Thanks for all this info gents and feel a bit bad that Ive obviously got you to go over old ground again!! Sorry!! Realising now that 'stickys' cover a lot of stuff that is worth refering to before getting lost in a thread and asking old questions! I bought my car initially to just polish and enjoy driving but since Ade Worman helped me with my electronic ignition, Ive become interested in trying to get a grip of things like timing, carbs etc and not relying on the Gods to shine down on me when things go wrong.
Last pics posted have kicked up a ton of questions in my head but I will explore the stickys before I ask
