Engine breather/PCV

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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

It can matter.

Due to engine rotation you can get a lot more oil thrown up into the passenger side rocker than the drivers side. So there is a chance that if you have the PCV valve on the passenger side you could suck a little oil into the engine at high rpm.

So that is why I suggested the valve on the drivers side. ;)
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Post by DaveBishop »

Jim
I have emailed you this extract. Can't believe that I resized it can't be that old
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2 x 1969 Dodge Darts
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

On Mopars the factor tended to put the valve on different sides depending on year and model. From about 69-on the HP engines tended to have the valve on the drivers side.
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

Anyway. Has the rattle in the valve stopped now? :)
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Post by DaveBishop »

Dave
Its a 1969 workshop manual that I have. Got it off a mate of mine back in 1972 he had been given ten different Dodge and Plymouth ones in payment for a job that he had done. They covered most of the production models. He was a Chevrolet man so had no use for them.
2 x 1969 Dodge Darts
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

Many of the illustrations in my 1970 manual use the same illustrations I have seen in a 1968 manual. Except for the newer things like the six pack induction which shows the PCV valve on the drivers side.

They tended to put the valve on the passenger side because that is the side on the carb that the hose fits to. But high revving engines like the six pack they ran the hose all the way around the back of the engine to the drivers side.

I have had a couple of people on my Challenger board with a oil burning problems on their small blocks when driven hard. When I suggested they swap the valve over to the other side it fixed the problem both times.
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

Like so.
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Demon James
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Post by Demon James »

The rattle is now only for 3 or 4 mins now as the engine warms up but I haven't swapped stuff back fully for anti clockwise circulation. I'll do this when I'm mucking up, I mean sorting out the incorrect throttle/kickdown springs and linkages :roll: :) Still, I am enjoying the whole learning process :read2: Thanks everyone, this club is invaluable :thumbright:
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Demon James
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Post by Demon James »

Right, Ive been out a couple of times now with someone behind for the evening (69 Mustang playing catch up :P :lol: ) anyway, there doesnt apper to be smoke now unless I accelerate out of a corner and then its quite promenant out of the passenger side exhuast for 10-15 seconds or so. No one had pointed this out before the oil change so why now? :roll: The car is now running well and after some tweks on the carb, idle is the smoothest I've ever had it, seems like a new car till I get told it now smokes one side #-o
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Dave-R
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Post by Dave-R »

So did you put the breather on the passenger side and the valve on the drivers side?

Exactly how high on your dipstick is the oil level. I mean is it on the Max or just under/over?

I always run these engines 1/2 to 3/4 of the way to Max on the dipstick.
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Demon James
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Post by Demon James »

Hi Dave, the valve is now on the drivers side with the breather on the passenger side so suction is anti-clockwise looking at the front of the engine. The oil level is on or fractionaly over the mark, I was a bit unsure when I filled up as its been fitted with an after market dipstick and did wonder how accurate it may or may not be. I thought there may be a bit of "fudge factor" so wasn't too worried when I slightly over filled :dontknow: Could I be sloshing the slippy stuff about?
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Post by Dave-R »

The passenger side head jets a lot of oil in it at rpm. That is why you needed the breather on that side so that you are not sucking oil into the carb.
You probably have worn valve guides and the rocker is filling with oil.

There is a reason the line is labled MAX. But because of lost power due to the crank dragging it's ass through the oil it is better to keep the oil level below the full mark. In fact on a high rpm street/strip engine you are better off just keeping the oil at just above the MIN mark.
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Demon James
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Post by Demon James »

:pale: worn valve guides, is that as pooey as it sounds?
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Post by Demon James »

I have a compression tester waitng to be used, will this tell me much?
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Post by Ivor »

To test your valve guides you really need to do a leak down, that will give you a better idea than simply a compression test.

A rough check can be done with the old rope trick, so you can lift a rocker, bang out the spring and give the valve a waggle, there should be no perceivable play.

The other options are a bottle of Wynns down it to keep the smoke down or rolls your sleeves up, whip the heads off and sort the valve guides properly!
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