Stroker rebuild

[Guy]

Oh thats not good, best of luck Carl

[Carl]

Cheers Guy, gonna need it I recon.

[MilesnMiles]

Carl, sorry to hear this and excuse my ignorance, but isn't this a solid lifter set up? If so, how could a lifter 'let go'?
Check for a bent push rod if you have overtightened.
I had trouble when I changed my heads and had to go to adjustable push rods to get clearance.

Wasn't this block skimmed or trued up recently?
Did you set the lash in situ or just bolt on the rockers at a predesignated number of threads.
Just throwing ideas out there. I hope it's something in the rocker set up and not mechanical failure. I note that in earlier threads there is some discussion of how to set up the rocker assembly.
Fingers crossed at this stage!

[Carl]

No miles it has Hydraulic lifters, sometimes the clips come out which I hope hasn't happened as that could be anywhere in the engine. Lash was set at zero then half a turn further. All the others had zero lash within 2 or 3 threads out the rocker the dodgy one now has another 2 or 3 threads more before zero lash.

[Mick70RR]

Sounds to me like that lifter has collapsed, that would cause the tapping you could hear. It might be something got into the lifter and blocked the check valve open. Best get the intake off and check it out.

[MilesnMiles]

Ok Carl! I see. In that case hopefully as Mick said, it's a collapsed lifter.
I've had that happen to me. Sound dreadful, but easily cured. Hope that is the case for you too.

[Mick70RR]

Thinking about it, it sounds like the lifter started working again after you reset the lash Carl and now the valve is not closing because you've adjusted it too tight. I'd get the rocker cover off again and check the lash once more first.

[Carl]

Thanks that confirms my suspicions of the lifter collapsing although I don't think it's over adjusted I think it's collapse is the reason it took further to get zero lash as the pushrod is sitting lower in the lifter body, and not pumping up when the engine is running.

[MilesnMiles]

Carl, I had that issue too. When I had adjustable pushrods I would adjust them to get correct pre-load, but some lifters would bleed down more than others.
In the end I measured everything and made a jig so every pushrods was equal and never had a lifter problem again.
I presume in theory you should be able to do the same; adjust each rocker to the same number of threads and it should then be correct all other factors being equal.

[Dave-R]

When you set zero lash the pushrod cup in the lifter should still be hard up against the circlip. It is held up by an internal spring.
Your preload will then push the cup in the lifter down 20-40 thou (depending on your turns on the adjuster) to keep the cup off the circlip.

Oil pressure with the engine running should hold the lifter cup at this set height and no more, no less. If pressure gets too high and the lifter "pumps up" the pre-load clearance will stop the circlip getting abuse and popping out. In theory.

The lifters I used were always the type with a REAL circlip holding them together. Rather than the stock wire clip. A real circlip will take a lot more abuse.

[Les Szabo]

I'm sure you'll sort it ok and it'll run fine....but that motor with R/Rockers and especially being a stick car with spikey rpms really deserved a Solid Cam Carl, similar to db's.....lazy bu**er

Les

[Dave-R]

I would never go back to hydraulic lifters. Solid or solid roller is the only way to go.

[Les Szabo]

I would never go back to hydraulic lifters. Solid or solid roller is the only way to go.

Just takes a bit of growing up Dave

Les

[Carl]

If you all want to pay for a solid lifter set up for me then I will have one

[Carl]

I would never go back to hydraulic lifters. Solid or solid roller is the only way to go.

Just takes a bit of growing up Dave

Les

Whats that supposed to mean Les?