Underside of the car
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Underside of the car
Hi,
My dart really needs the belly side of the car looking it, at the moment its either just white paint or black paint, which is not very protective.
You can still see all of the original spot welds but I'd like to add protection in case it's caught out in the rain.
I'm planning on seam sealing the larger joins up then using POR15 to paint on a protective hard coat. Has anyone else used this before?
I've been told not to spray it as it gets everywhere as it only really sets when cold (which is unusual for a paint!).
What do you think to the above?
Jon
My dart really needs the belly side of the car looking it, at the moment its either just white paint or black paint, which is not very protective.
You can still see all of the original spot welds but I'd like to add protection in case it's caught out in the rain.
I'm planning on seam sealing the larger joins up then using POR15 to paint on a protective hard coat. Has anyone else used this before?
I've been told not to spray it as it gets everywhere as it only really sets when cold (which is unusual for a paint!).
What do you think to the above?
Jon
|| '68 Dodge Dart || '70 Plymouth Satellite || '72 Mk1 Escort || '98 AMG E55 || '85 2CV || S1 106 Rallye || E36 || E46 ||
looks like ziebart.. is that the word
like a rubbery plasticy paint
as long as you can still see if it is still rusting 6 months on, anything is better nothing.
its the thick tar or rubber underseal that allows the metal to rust away underneath. that stuff looks alright
I just use waxoyle. its rare for me to be out and about in salt season
i just bung it on every couple of years
you can see eaxatly where its gone on
thin it with white spirit
spray it on
wipe off with wd40 any over spray.
stinkin job
Dave
like a rubbery plasticy paint
as long as you can still see if it is still rusting 6 months on, anything is better nothing.
its the thick tar or rubber underseal that allows the metal to rust away underneath. that stuff looks alright
I just use waxoyle. its rare for me to be out and about in salt season
i just bung it on every couple of years
you can see eaxatly where its gone on
thin it with white spirit
spray it on
wipe off with wd40 any over spray.
stinkin job
Dave
The Greater Knapweed near the Mugwort by the Buckthorn tree is dying
Hi Dave,Dave999 wrote:looks like ziebart.. is that the word
like a rubbery plasticy paint
as long as you can still see if it is still rusting 6 months on, anything is better nothing.
its the thick tar or rubber underseal that allows the metal to rust away underneath. that stuff looks alright
I just use waxoyle. its rare for me to be out and about in salt season
i just bung it on every couple of years
you can see eaxatly where its gone on
thin it with white spirit
spray it on
wipe off with wd40 any over spray.
stinkin job
Dave
This stuff is like paint, it sets like a rock. My friend has used it and shown me it. You can not chip or damage it, quite amzing stuff.
I think I've got to wire wheel down the car to bare metal for this to take properly. Then I 'll Waxoyl over that once dry.
Thanks for the input.
|| '68 Dodge Dart || '70 Plymouth Satellite || '72 Mk1 Escort || '98 AMG E55 || '85 2CV || S1 106 Rallye || E36 || E46 ||
- Cannonball
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exactly or just repaint the underside in either black or white gloss, you can Bananarama! down if dirty and keep your eye on condition,Blue wrote:I normally just scrape off anything loose and hit at all with stonechip, that works fine it's not like you'll be driving it in all weathers.
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WATTS RACING TRANSMISSIONS, CLOBBER THE COMPETITION ITS CLOBBERIN TIME
OFTEN OUTNUMBERED NEVER OUTGUNNED,
HEY WHATS THE TOP END ON THAT SUPERSPORTS. UNLIMITED,
I HAVE A NVQW
LIFE GOES PRETTY FAST, IF YOU DONT LOOK ROUND A WHILE YOU MAY JUST MISS IT,
THE PASS IS THE JUICE,
LOVED BY FEW,
HATED BY MANY
RESPECTED BY ALL
Carplan Tetrosyl for me.
It ain't pretty but it's the best stuff I know for protection on old cars.
It's like grease mixed with sand, I smear it on by hand.
It covers light rust, old paint and coatings, you can Bananarama! into seams, etc. It stays soft for a couple of years so resists stone chipping, etc. Because it's soft, new rust doesn't get trapped under it and grow unseen like hard paint coatings. You get an early warning so you can clean off loose stuff easily and re-apply.
It ain't pretty but it's the best stuff I know for protection on old cars.
It's like grease mixed with sand, I smear it on by hand.
It covers light rust, old paint and coatings, you can Bananarama! into seams, etc. It stays soft for a couple of years so resists stone chipping, etc. Because it's soft, new rust doesn't get trapped under it and grow unseen like hard paint coatings. You get an early warning so you can clean off loose stuff easily and re-apply.
No-one will believe you...
- octanejunkie
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If going with stonechip Tetrosyl is really good. You can get it in a Shutz tin and spray it on with a Shutz gun. Do you have a compressor?
Hammerite do their own brand of underseal, and this stuff is great. Comes with Waxoyl already in it. You can buy it in aerosol form at around £10 a can. You'd probably need 5 or 6 cans for a decent coating.
If possible, get it in a Shutz can again, and spray it that way, it'll be much cheaper. You'll need to heat it a bit first though as its like jelly when its cold.
Waxoyl on its own is only really designed for cavities (inside rockers, sills, chassis rails etc), and won't last long on exposed parts of the car underneath.
Not sure i'd want to seam seal too much underneath, that in itself can create water/rust traps if not applied just right.
I am always reluctant to brush paint things underneath either, as you never get an even coat, can look naff, and it takes forever.
Spray on a decent undercoat, then once thats gone off, fill all box sections with a good slug of cavity wax. This is the time honoured, best way to protect the underside of a car.
The cleaner you can get the car underneath before you start, the better your chosen coating will adhere.
Hammerite do their own brand of underseal, and this stuff is great. Comes with Waxoyl already in it. You can buy it in aerosol form at around £10 a can. You'd probably need 5 or 6 cans for a decent coating.
If possible, get it in a Shutz can again, and spray it that way, it'll be much cheaper. You'll need to heat it a bit first though as its like jelly when its cold.
Waxoyl on its own is only really designed for cavities (inside rockers, sills, chassis rails etc), and won't last long on exposed parts of the car underneath.
Not sure i'd want to seam seal too much underneath, that in itself can create water/rust traps if not applied just right.
I am always reluctant to brush paint things underneath either, as you never get an even coat, can look naff, and it takes forever.
Spray on a decent undercoat, then once thats gone off, fill all box sections with a good slug of cavity wax. This is the time honoured, best way to protect the underside of a car.
The cleaner you can get the car underneath before you start, the better your chosen coating will adhere.
"If its a job no man can survive, he's the man for the job"
- octanejunkie
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