Bulkhead Connector Bypass Step by Step

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sun Jun 26, 16 6:48 pm

I've never used fusible links on any of the rewires I've done. I don't profess to be any kind of an electrician, so I'll leave to someone better qualified to advise if that's a good idea or not.

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sun Jun 26, 16 6:53 pm

Blue wrote:I've never used fusible links on any of the rewires I've done. I don't profess to be any kind of an electrician, so I'll leave to someone better qualified to advise if that's a good idea or not.

If none of them caught fire after I'm presuming it's ok?

I noticed the how to says to splice the red a black wires between starter relay and bulkhead (that run round dash area to ammeter). Why not join them both at the relay where there is a bolted connection point? Rather than splicing?

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Sun Jun 26, 16 7:41 pm

Never had any electrical fires. I've also run across a lot of busy roads without being run over but I'm not going to tell you that's a good idea either...

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sun Jun 26, 16 9:59 pm

Blue wrote:Never had any electrical fires. I've also run across a lot of busy roads without being run over but I'm not going to tell you that's a good idea either...

Lol, very true!

I picked up some 70A rated 10mm cable from Maplin and a pair of lugs. I'm thinking, run that alternator to starter relay, then the smaller 2.5 35A cable from same connection on starter relay through bulkhead to a clean un burnt bit of the black "P" wire, another through the bulkhead from same starter connection to the red "Z" wire. Then connect the P and Z wires together at the ammeter. That should work?

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Jun 26, 16 10:33 pm

Ditch the Ammeter completely, fit a Volt meter.

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Sun Jun 26, 16 10:51 pm

Pete wrote:Ditch the Ammeter completely, fit a Volt meter.

Sorry that what I mean, connect the two wires together at the ammeter to by pass it. I'm thinking on the one post as mentioned before as will be a good solid connection.

Want to get a volt meter, need to look how they are wired in next.

Post by **MattH** » Mon Jun 27, 16 8:39 pm

I didnt put a fuse link on the cable from the alternator to the starter relay as far as I can remember. What I did do was leave the original black wire to the ammeter that feeds everything else, I assumed the main alternator current will go down the thick wire and the thin one won't carry a big load now. Been Ok so far.

morgan · Post by **morgan** » Mon Jun 27, 16 8:50 pm

XP29 wrote:
Pete wrote:Ditch the Ammeter completely, fit a Volt meter.
Sorry that what I mean, connect the two wires together at the ammeter to by pass it. I'm thinking on the one post as mentioned before as will be a good solid connection.

Want to get a volt meter, need to look how they are wired in next.

Here ya go. See pictures near bottom. Job done. £1.76. 2 wires.
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... =voltmeter

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Mon Jun 27, 16 9:04 pm

MattH wrote:I didnt put a fuse link on the cable from the alternator to the starter relay as far as I can remember. What I did do was leave the original black wire to the ammeter that feeds everything else, I assumed the main alternator current will go down the thick wire and the thin one won't carry a big load now. Been Ok so far.

Ok thanks. I'm having to alter my wiring at the bulkhead and to under the dash as it got toasty!

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Mon Jun 27, 16 9:05 pm

morgan wrote:
XP29 wrote:
Pete wrote:Ditch the Ammeter completely, fit a Volt meter.
Sorry that what I mean, connect the two wires together at the ammeter to by pass it. I'm thinking on the one post as mentioned before as will be a good solid connection.

Want to get a volt meter, need to look how they are wired in next.
Here ya go. See pictures near bottom. Job done. £1.76. 2 wires.
http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... =voltmeter

Cheers for that! For how much they are I've ordered one, see if I can find a place for it.

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Tue Jun 28, 16 1:50 pm

Any of you guys that have have altered/replaced any wiring from the bulkhead to under the dash, what connectors did you use? If the main power is going direct to the battery, the blue 2.5mm crimps can take 27A, will these be OK to use?

Dave999 · Post by **Dave999** » Tue Jun 28, 16 3:39 pm

if you are not putting full alternator output through the connector they will be fine

I'd be inclined to do 1 wire at a time

trim back to good wire

replace with similarly coloured new wire, use the

Line Man's Splice

heat shrink wrap

and solder

replace or clean and re clamp the spades and female connectors in the bulkhead connector

the one that has melted through just drill through both sides and pass a wire right through with a soldered joint on the engine bay side

buy cling wrap as per original loom

and wrap it up nice and tidy.

Dave

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Tue Jun 28, 16 4:19 pm

I was thinking of the ratchet type crimps with the blue plastic outer (for 2.5mm cable)? I am routing the alternator feed straight to the starter relay and connecting the ammeter cables together (I'm using one of the posts of the ammeter for this connection. I'm hoping the cable I ordered will be here today/tomorrow.

XP29 · Post by **XP29** » Tue Jun 28, 16 4:22 pm

This type of crimp and this ratchet

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Tue Jun 28, 16 4:57 pm

The crimps are OK, but there are a lot of Chinese type copies on the connectors, so be careful what you use/buy. They don't seem to crimp/hold with the same force of a good crimp

For connections to starter motor, alternator, I prefer to use the alloy type which uses a different crimp method. These are sized to the cross sectional area of the wire & to bolt they are being affixed to.

They may not be the cheapest, but I have been very pleased with quality of the cables & connectors I have bought from ECS

( https://www.electricalcarservices.com/ )

For what its worth, I never use fusible links