Steel framed building
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Steel framed building
Has anyone on here had exposure to or dealing with erecting a steel framed building? My logic is that mopars are big, someone on here must have built a 'hanger' at some stage to house them, or knows of someone that has?
Looking for a bit of real world advice and maybe things to look out for when building this kind of structure, or a "big garage" in general. I want a ramp in there at a later date so considerations of electric and supporting concrete base have been covered... Anything you might have regret not putting in to a garage when you built one?
The one I want to build it 45x30ft and Cyclone steel buildings seem like a good provider in the UK and their quotation looks alright also.
Any advice, general pointers etc welcome.
Thanks.
Looking for a bit of real world advice and maybe things to look out for when building this kind of structure, or a "big garage" in general. I want a ramp in there at a later date so considerations of electric and supporting concrete base have been covered... Anything you might have regret not putting in to a garage when you built one?
The one I want to build it 45x30ft and Cyclone steel buildings seem like a good provider in the UK and their quotation looks alright also.
Any advice, general pointers etc welcome.
Thanks.
|| '68 Dodge Dart || '70 Plymouth Satellite || '72 Mk1 Escort || '98 AMG E55 || '85 2CV || S1 106 Rallye || E36 || E46 ||
I bought one of these
http://miraclespan.co.uk/products/arche ... acle-span/
40 ft wide by 50 deep
cheapest way to have a big building, had it 12 yrs execelent value for money, but hot in the summer and cold in the winter
Have to run a demumidifer in the winter as not lined or insulated
Took some screwing together though and a few ££ in the base to stand it on
http://miraclespan.co.uk/products/arche ... acle-span/
40 ft wide by 50 deep
cheapest way to have a big building, had it 12 yrs execelent value for money, but hot in the summer and cold in the winter
Have to run a demumidifer in the winter as not lined or insulated
Took some screwing together though and a few ££ in the base to stand it on
life is not a spectator sport
www.andyrobinson.eu
andy robinson
68 572 coronet RT
72 440 chrysler new yorker
69 518 daytona
www.andyrobinson.eu
andy robinson
68 572 coronet RT
72 440 chrysler new yorker
69 518 daytona
- shovelheadrob
- Posts: 959
- Joined: Tue Sep 18, 12 10:27 am
Might seem like a lot more expense but go for insulated panels, you can get non drip roof sheets but I don't know how well they work over proper composite panels. Roof lights are good as you can't beat a bit of natural light.
There are places that do seconds, which will save money on cladding if you design and build your own. If you go for a kit, ask if it includes all the flashings, gutters, closers etc as that could add a bit if not.
Those miracle span are good value, but IMHO, as they are curved you can't always make use of every inch. Also not so easy to add insulation.
Are you putting pads in for the frame stanchions & for the ramp or just a slab?
I used to do a bit of erecting & cladding so feel free to ask any technical questions & I'll do my best to answer.
There are places that do seconds, which will save money on cladding if you design and build your own. If you go for a kit, ask if it includes all the flashings, gutters, closers etc as that could add a bit if not.
Those miracle span are good value, but IMHO, as they are curved you can't always make use of every inch. Also not so easy to add insulation.
Are you putting pads in for the frame stanchions & for the ramp or just a slab?
I used to do a bit of erecting & cladding so feel free to ask any technical questions & I'll do my best to answer.
You can't have too much power, only a lack of traction!
Thanks!
Good feedback, I see they do 'built in' non drip treatments but like you, I don't know how good that really is.shovelheadrob wrote:Might seem like a lot more expense but go for insulated panels, you can get non drip roof sheets but I don't know how well they work over proper composite panels. Roof lights are good as you can't beat a bit of natural light.
I think I will be going for a kit, the more traditional huge RSJ type framed buildings seem a bit old school compared to these C framed buildings, more expensive and harder to put up.If you go for a kit, ask if it includes all the flashings, gutters, closers etc as that could add a bit if not.
I did think that, I will go for a more traditional shaped building, vertical walls etc.Those miracle span are good value, but IMHO, as they are curved you can't always make use of every inch. Also not so easy to add insulation.
Well I understand when I decide on my building specifics, they will send over plans for planning permission, and my foundations which I'll do myself. I know that a lift will require a good base to work to. The idea is to pour it all in one though (with expansion gaps).Are you putting pads in for the frame stanchions & for the ramp or just a slab?
Thanks!I used to do a bit of erecting & cladding so feel free to ask any technical questions & I'll do my best to answer.
|| '68 Dodge Dart || '70 Plymouth Satellite || '72 Mk1 Escort || '98 AMG E55 || '85 2CV || S1 106 Rallye || E36 || E46 ||
Not sure I know of that thread, sounds interesting though?
I've done this drawing, to scale.
The red mopar is sized to be my Dart, the green cars and escort. These cars might change over the years but it give me an idea of sizes.
What does everyone think?
Can I improve this in anyway, move the lift perhaps, or access points for the garage?
Thanks,
J
I've done this drawing, to scale.
The red mopar is sized to be my Dart, the green cars and escort. These cars might change over the years but it give me an idea of sizes.
What does everyone think?
Can I improve this in anyway, move the lift perhaps, or access points for the garage?
Thanks,
J
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|| '68 Dodge Dart || '70 Plymouth Satellite || '72 Mk1 Escort || '98 AMG E55 || '85 2CV || S1 106 Rallye || E36 || E46 ||
- Dart Vader
- Posts: 3532
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 07 5:27 pm
- Location: Swindon MMA180
Personally unless you think you'll be using the lift all the time I'd move it over to where the red car is. You'd have to manoeuvre around it to get a car into the other corner otherwise, not ideal. If you do put it in the corner allow enough space away from the wall to be able to get a half shaft out, that should be ample space to do most things.
“It’s good enough for Nancy”
Thanks Blue, will have a re-jig.
The lift is the one thing I had issues with, position wise.
I did some 'real life' driving in and out of the 'garage', with it pegged out in the ground while in the dart and it was tricky to get around the post of the ramp.
The lift is the one thing I had issues with, position wise.
I did some 'real life' driving in and out of the 'garage', with it pegged out in the ground while in the dart and it was tricky to get around the post of the ramp.
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|| '68 Dodge Dart || '70 Plymouth Satellite || '72 Mk1 Escort || '98 AMG E55 || '85 2CV || S1 106 Rallye || E36 || E46 ||
I agree + you never know how many cars you will want in at a later date and anything permanently fixed down does not want to be in the middle, as long as the ramp is in line with one of the doors, for when your pushing a none runner on the ramp, it will happenBlue wrote:Personally unless you think you'll be using the lift all the time I'd move it over to where the red car is. You'd have to manoeuvre around it to get a car into the other corner otherwise, not ideal. If you do put it in the corner allow enough space away from the wall to be able to get a half shaft out, that should be ample space to do most things.
Also make the garage deep enough to get 2 b bodies in nose to tail, I made this mistake on my brick garage,I thought 1 b body + normal car would be all Id ever need, with a result now im just slightly short to get 2 big yanks in nose to tail and Ive most just got big yank tanks now
life is not a spectator sport
www.andyrobinson.eu
andy robinson
68 572 coronet RT
72 440 chrysler new yorker
69 518 daytona
www.andyrobinson.eu
andy robinson
68 572 coronet RT
72 440 chrysler new yorker
69 518 daytona
Thanks both.
The rollers are cat5 type, industrial ones and crazy expensive. Another one pushes it over budget really but I see your point totally.
Having another roller is an additional £3500.
Rear benches make sense for sure.
I will get a quote for a 40ft x45ft and see if that ups the price much a lot. So I can fit in two B bodies. It'll probably never happen but worth doing it once and properly if the budget allows.
Noted about the ramp position and fixing of.
Do you think the roller door is overkill at 3.5m x 4m wide?
Perhaps I should work at having three 3x3m doors?
Cheers,
Jon
The rollers are cat5 type, industrial ones and crazy expensive. Another one pushes it over budget really but I see your point totally.
Having another roller is an additional £3500.

Rear benches make sense for sure.
I will get a quote for a 40ft x45ft and see if that ups the price much a lot. So I can fit in two B bodies. It'll probably never happen but worth doing it once and properly if the budget allows.
Noted about the ramp position and fixing of.
Do you think the roller door is overkill at 3.5m x 4m wide?
Perhaps I should work at having three 3x3m doors?
Cheers,
Jon
|| '68 Dodge Dart || '70 Plymouth Satellite || '72 Mk1 Escort || '98 AMG E55 || '85 2CV || S1 106 Rallye || E36 || E46 ||
- latil
- Posts: 12076
- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 05 10:37 pm
- Location: Steve Pearson MMA/014. East Grinstead and Carmarthen.
I'd go for 3 doors,gives a straight run in,useful if it's being pushed in. 3m door is plenty wide enough unless you're going start doing vintage trucks 

1965 Belvedere 2 426 Wedge.
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