71 Dodge Dart 360 V8

[uber cool]

Bought this in November 2015, it's my first US car I've imported myself, but my 6th American car in as many years. and probably the nicest condition of all of them except my 59 Apache. My truck is patina and roughish and staying that way, this one is going nice paint, wheels, stance and interior.

Saw it on ebay US thought Oh Yes me likely very much and hit the 'Buy it now' button, then thought what have I done.......................... So sold a few other project cars to make way for this one. I have just finished a 63 C10 pickup build for a friend that was a dragged from the US junk yard where it had lay for 20 years and rebuilt everything. So this one should be a pleasant change needing zero welding.

Photo below as per forecourt at Texas dealership.






























No previous history but looks as if someone has spent some serious money with a freshly rebuilt 360 cu motor. All the front suspension, brakes and calipers are new too as are the shocks. I suspect someone was rebuilding and lost interest. Came with a boot full of spares too. The dash is a complete balls up. Not sure whether to remake but properly with aftermarket gauges or fit the old strip style speedo?

[uber cool]

I bought it in early Oct 15 and it arrived in Southampton docks mid Nov 15. Collected it myself, which is always an exiting time, like a kid at christmas.:mooooh:
https://youtu.be/FRNsUuyfIcI
Started right up , no flat battery no low fuel, open header .........................big grin
https://youtu.be/P0_JRTDsF60

Amazing what you can find on google earth street view! Show the Dart on previous owners drive in 2012 in Katy Texas.

1st photo it's at the top of the drive covered up, 2nd photo near garage not covered up

[uber cool]

Started on converting lighting from USA spec to UK spec. First up the front end, new RHD crystal headlights with sidelights. So I can use the combined USA parking and indicator in the grill as just the indicator and fit orange bulbs.



Had to modify the headlight bucket to accommodate the headlight side light.



One side done, one side to g. But a bit cold in the garage today 1 deg C, so will do that another day.

[uber cool]

Rear bumper refitted and reverse lights rewired as indicators

No idea what the previous owner was think when they used 3 in-line connectors on the same wire?? when it goes through the bulkhead to ignition switch there are another 2 connectors, so 5 on 1 wire!!! I'll be replace this with 1 wire.

What started out as a simply task to remove the plugs to check compression ended up a major strip down. Headers in the way of the back 2 spark plugs, solution remove header, but first the column must come out. But still the header wont come out, so disconnect the steering arms that go through the headers, then remove the steering pump. TBH it all need to come out as I want to heat warp the exhausts and make a little more clearance where the header was rubbing on the column and they where blowing at the manifold.


Picked this up from the march swapmeet, was just dirty and covered in stick on vinyl, got to for £45 bargain!





10 mins cleaning and it looks much better, I'll paint the sides later in satin black vinyl paint.





But I also prearranged to buy a Hurst Quarter shifter, so now not sure whether to run with the original type, or the Hurst or better still incorporate the Hurst into the centre console. But that can t wait as more important jobs to do , like wrestle the drivers side header out!



Dash is back in now after a repaint and fitment of an original style instrument gauge cluster that I got off a USA mopar forum member





Also made myself a set of exhausts, so at least i can here myself think whilst its running, need to add the H piece to the exhaust later



first start up

https://youtu.be/Ww_UvFkgWuk

[uber cool]

Ok i have the diff out now and struggling to get the sliding yoke out, it's either jammed in the transmission or the prop is too long as there is no movement to slide the prop forwards. I had to dismantle the rear UJ to get the prop clear of the diff. So still not getting closer to the the engine vibrations. But need to sort all these things out before i can go for a run in it. I'm in the stage of the more I remove the more I think the PO was on drugs when he fitted the 360. It has has top quality new bits just poorly assembled! However with the prop off the exhausts off and the car nice and high on stands i might as well take the trans out and change the flex plate. Oh did I mentions the trans sump is so distorted and over tightened and covered in red sealant that it leaks from every seam. So there's another job.
Does this date stamp on the diff mean manufactured in 1975?

looks like the axle has been shortened one side from the donor car, the splines on the drivers side look new and looks to have the word DART written in white paint on the halfshaft, again suggesting very low miles since fitted.

All the brake drum internals look new


Ive counted the crown wheel and pinion teeth 35 and 10 , so 3.5 ratio, anybody recognise these markings on the crown wheel?

[uber cool]

I copied the first few post off the 'A-body' forum in USA, so now up to date with the transmission out and sorting out the sliding yoke, that doent want to slide
removed old flexplate and swapped out for a B&M balanced flex plate.With the transmission on the floor I was able to get the stuck yoke removed. It would not slide In and out and needed quite a bit of force to remove. Looking at the splines on the yoke they seem quite square edged compared to the splines on the transmission (see photos below). Also the yoke has had some machining at the end to remove about 1 1/2" of the splines so has it its been modified to fit? Hence I'm thinking either the machining has left a burr on the end of the splines causing it to be tight, or its the wrong spline/yoke, as it is a ford 9" diff, maybe the PO used a full ford propshaft? the markings on the yoke say 'W4' and '434' does this identify the yoke as either mopar or ford? Help on this appreciated!

[Blue]

I don't think that's a Mopar yoke, don't recall ever seeing one that had a master spline like that and as you say the spline shape doesn't look right.

[shovelheadrob]

You have a few jobs to do there, but looks like you have a good idea of what you're doing. You say it has a 360, they are externally balanced so should have an externally balanced damper & would originally have had a 360 specific torque converter. This may have been changed for an aftermarket flex plate to enable a different converter to be used. This could well be the source of your engine vibration. You are correct about there should be sufficient clearance to remove the driveshaft, without this clearance you will get damage as everything will be squeezed up tight. The car looks nice & straight though so hopefully the body is all good.

[Blue]

Just another thought, the engines in Mopars are offset to the passenger side so the diff is offset so it all lines up. Have they taken that into account when the axle has been narrowed?

[shovelheadrob]

Just seen your last post, you can't use an externally balanced flexplate & an externally balanced converter, can you post a pic of the converter?
Agree with Blue that yoke doesn't look right.

[Rebel]

Been following this on retro rides as well, looks like a good solid base to start with

[Stu Twin]

I don't think that's a Mopar yoke, don't recall ever seeing one that had a master spline like that and as you say the spline shape doesn't look right.

I think in the original post in the 'Lounge' section, it was stated that it has a 9 inch rear. Would the centre section line up with the trans?
Possibly a cause of vibration if mis-aligned?

Just a thought.
Stu.

[uber cool]

Hi all thanks for feedback, I'll be asking lots of questions.

first off the converter fitted isn't balanced, looks to be an aftermarket item, hence why im going for the balanced flex plate.

Re the rear axle, its is a Ford 9" unit , shortened on one side to put the diff in the correct place. Spoke to someone on the 'A body forum' and they say its a good upgrade. Prop sits straight and true in the middle of the car front to back.

Re the splines I keep looking at them in the yoke and they look to squared off and not pointy like on the trans. Think i need to get hold of another 727 yoke to try on my trans. Anyone have one? to buy or borrow?

re the body its absolutely mint, no rot or rust anywhere, the owner previous to the engine upgrade person was an old lady, Texas car all it's life and 37,000 on the clocks, I dont think its done many miles if any since the upgrade, im guess is a stalled project, when they noticed the engine vibration and lost interest . It still has the new parts stickers on the front suspension arms when they upgraded to the wider stud pattern and discs

[db]

Lovely car and good to see you cracking on with it!

Do you have receipts for the engine work? If it's had a serious build, they could have upgraded to an internally balanced crank. Just something to bear in mind.

[uber cool]

Lovely car and good to see you cracking on with it!

Do you have receipts for the engine work? If it's had a serious build, they could have upgraded to an internally balanced crank. Just something to bear in mind.

Dont have any receipts but it does look a fresh build with new core plugs , gaskets, manifolds, carb, alternator etc. I did wonder re internal balance but it has a front pulley external balance, but none on the torque converter, hence the thought process on the B&M flex plate.

I did try all the obvious first like plugs, leads etc. so whilst it' on the stand and I needed to pull the trans for the stuck yoke thought i'd fit the new flex plate. I'm half expecting to need to pull either the trans or the whole lot again whilst sorting out other niggles. But boy it's tight in there with those headers