Ignition problems part 3

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MilesnMiles
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Ignition problems part 3

Post by MilesnMiles »

Ok, fitted new ignition barrel and key. Car will start sometimes, not others. Cold start won't happen.
Cold start needs me to jump starter solenoid with key on
Starts from key after that
Then it won't
When it won't start off the key I hear/see a back fire from carb as if it is firing as key returns from Run 2 to Run 1
Car drives and idles perfectly so timing is fine.
Not sure what's next to do besides set fire to it :x , but it does drive nice.
Very frustrating.
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ANTON
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Post by ANTON »

Miles
does the starter always turn over but just wont fire.
Have you bypassed the neutral safety switch.
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Charger
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Post by Charger »

MilesnMiles wrote:Starts from key after that
Then it won't
ANTON wrote:Have you bypassed the neutral safety switch.
If it is the neutral safety and it's intermittent, try to jiggle the shifter in neutral or park while holding the key in crank, may just be slightly out of adjustment, mine was when i got it
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MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Thanks guys,
the car always turns over for sure. If it was the neutral safety, surely it wouldn't turn over; simply be dead when I switched the ignition over to start? (as it would if I tried to start in Drive etc.)
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Charger
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Post by Charger »

MilesnMiles wrote:Thanks guys,
the car always turns over for sure. If it was the neutral safety, surely it wouldn't turn over; simply be dead when I switched the ignition over to start? (as it would if I tried to start in Drive etc.)
Ah ok, it's just you said you need to 'jump starter solenoid' when it's cold, but I think I understand why you said that now

I think I would still be looking in the direction of the ignition switch, is it new, or known good??

Does it always run ok while the key is in the run position?? (i.e.; it doesn't cut out unexpectedly)

Can you check for 12v at the coil while somebody holds the key in crank??

Or wire up a temporary bulb in the engine bay that you can see from the driver seat?? ... Then trace back along that circuit to the switch

Check all the connections along the way, including the dreaded bulkhead connector

I take it you got good earths etc??
Si
1970 Charger 500
383 | 4bbl | 727 column | PAS | PAB | buckets/buddy - check out my photos HERE

If you don't want another same old brand-new car ... you could be DODGE MATERIAL

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Derek
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Post by Derek »

I had the same sort of thing, even the backfire when you let go of the key, mine turned out to be, click the link. http://www.moparuk.com/forums/viewtopic ... ight=derek
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Post by challenger »

this is worth a check as i had a break inside the rubber block to the distributor, had nothing on cranking but would fire as you brought the key back and sometimes a backfire and then other times fire straight up !!
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MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

I bet that took some finding, Jim. Thanks, I'll check that too
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Post by challenger »

it certainly did !! replaced everything electrical, then took whole engine bay loom out to check every wire at diff points
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MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Think I'll need to do the same, albeit on the dash side. Car started straight away if shorted out on the starter solenoid..but not from the ignition key. So at least I know where I am know.
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Could use some more advice here. Getting pretty stuck.

When I short out the starter relay the car always fires and runs. Am I cutting out the ballast resistor by doing this or not? (Need to rule out faulty resistor as it is new)

I'm just trying to work out if the problem is in the ignition switch wiring to the bulkhead, or on the engine Bay side.
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Post by Cannonball »

i am w an k on electric miles but your best bet, go fire up that mustang first turn of the key, tow the r runner up to bedruthen steps and Bananarama! over the cliff go have a surf n enjoy the rest of your life in that little old fox,, ;) ;)
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Post by Powermyster »

I got rid of mine with the Pertronix unit, I can sent you my old ballast resistor if you want to try another.
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Charger
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Post by Charger »

MilesnMiles wrote:When I short out the starter relay the car always fires and runs. Am I cutting out the ballast resistor by doing this or not? (Need to rule out faulty resistor as it is new)
No mate, ballast will not be bypassed when the key is in the run position, if it starts / runs like this then the ballast must be good

It's got to be something that only comes into play when the key is in the crank position

Did you try the test I suggested with the bulb?? See if it lights when the key is in the crank position??
Si
1970 Charger 500
383 | 4bbl | 727 column | PAS | PAB | buckets/buddy - check out my photos HERE

If you don't want another same old brand-new car ... you could be DODGE MATERIAL

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MilesnMiles
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Post by MilesnMiles »

Jim, not had time yet but I will do that test.

Dunc, Fox got sold last week. New owner is the biggest guy I ever saw in my life. Including your good self :shock:

Luckily surf has been epic.

Returning to car next week.
It can only be one of two wires of Run 2 on the switch which I'll be checking on in due course. Thanks all, as ever.
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