floppy acceleration pedal
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floppy acceleration pedal
Hi guys, hope this is in the right section. Have had a little problem with my duster for a while now, the acceleration pedal is rather floppy and there is a lot of play in it. i never really had a problem with it until recently, when i found it idles quite higher than it should, that in itself not the biggest problem, but when i shift gears, it causes it to clunk rather loudly. Usually when i am stopped at a light i have to pull the pedal back to lower the revs. Anyone know what the easiest solution for this will be? Would this be a throttle cable issue?
cheers
chris
cheers
chris
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- Posts: 7309
- Joined: Fri Nov 04, 05 8:40 pm
- Location: Cornwall
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- Posts: 7309
- Joined: Fri Nov 04, 05 8:40 pm
- Location: Cornwall
Took some pics earlier, i will get some more in a bit where you can see the hose really pressing down on the spring.
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- Posts: 7309
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- Location: Cornwall
Chris, of me I'm not sure about where the spring is located on the throttle bracket. I cant tell, but when the throttle is fully open, is that spring free to stretch without bending or catching?
I have mine on the actual arm that locates the throttle cable. Gives a straight uninterrupted run for the eternal spring.
I have mine on the actual arm that locates the throttle cable. Gives a straight uninterrupted run for the eternal spring.
Undo the bracket where the tip ex is and pull the outer cable back to the firewall till the play is gone and the re tighten.
www.apdautomotive.co.uk
APD Automotive
Unit B3 Connaught Business Centre
22 Willow Lane
MITCHAM
CR4 4NA
0208 6400729
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APD Automotive
Unit B3 Connaught Business Centre
22 Willow Lane
MITCHAM
CR4 4NA
0208 6400729
https://www.facebook.com/#!/apdautomotive.ltd
The harsh gear change can be due to the kickdown adjustment which looks to be wrong.
Once you have the tickover sorted, adjust the kick down linkage by slipping the slotted end off the carb, at the pivot at the rear you'll see a hole drilled through it and the mounting bracket. use a suitable drill bit or allen key to hold all three holes inline and then screw out the slotted bit until it just slips on the carb stud at the rear of the slot. Remove drill bit and it's set. Sometimes when a non standard carb has been fitted the rod is too short to get correct adjustment so you need to weld in an extension to sort it.
Once you have the tickover sorted, adjust the kick down linkage by slipping the slotted end off the carb, at the pivot at the rear you'll see a hole drilled through it and the mounting bracket. use a suitable drill bit or allen key to hold all three holes inline and then screw out the slotted bit until it just slips on the carb stud at the rear of the slot. Remove drill bit and it's set. Sometimes when a non standard carb has been fitted the rod is too short to get correct adjustment so you need to weld in an extension to sort it.
“This ain’t no party, this ain’t no disco, this ain’t no foolin’ around”
I Had a little play around earlier on today, the air cleaner isnt in the way, so that wont be it. The spring that is caught on the hose still moves a fair bit, but i am not sure if that would be it.
Forgive me, i am not really familiar with all the ins and outs with carbs, so i am not sure what is what really.
Forgive me, i am not really familiar with all the ins and outs with carbs, so i am not sure what is what really.
There is no return spring on the gas pedal - it is all done via the Carb return spring. Get the Cable adjustment correct first - make sure the butterflies are open (but not over-extended) when the gas pedal is on the floor.
Then work backwards, spring tension, idle screw check, then kick-down levers... make sure the carb is now back on the throttle stop / idle screw.
Then work backwards, spring tension, idle screw check, then kick-down levers... make sure the carb is now back on the throttle stop / idle screw.
Pete Wiseman; Cambridge.
Mopar by the grace of God
Mopar by the grace of God