Front brake problem

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sat Apr 08, 06 7:42 pm

Back on the road and my front brakes are very marginal

They can hold the car during a burnout but on the move they hardly do anything. (Remember I can turn my rears off) They are manual PBR opposed piston fixed caliper discs, all the pistons move freely. Could the pads be glazed (loads of meat left on 'em even after a good few years.) Is there a quick fix like sandpapering them? They are NOT grease contaminated. I obviously will get new ones, but Duxford beckons!

Now I have wide rear brakes the rears lock up before the fronts so perhaps these discs and pads have always been marginal.......HELP! My Strange brakes aren't fitted yet due to a lower ball joint discrepancy

Alex · Post by **Alex** » Sat Apr 08, 06 7:50 pm

You could try scuffing them up with sand paper to try for some extra bite but it does sound like they are marginal performing? is the pedal solid?

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sat Apr 08, 06 7:54 pm

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sat Apr 08, 06 8:33 pm

Took the top off with some p400. Will have to see what it's like tomorrow. The pedal is hard and brings up the brake warning light when the backs are switched off which is what I would expect.

Wolfman · Post by **Wolfman** » Sat Apr 08, 06 10:08 pm

Hi Kev, this is a long shot have you got a brake proportioning valve under the bonnet. Looked at the photo's at the rake of your motor if the vavle is dodgy it could be restricting your front brakes. If you think it is try resetting the angle of the vavle back to horizontal

Mike

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Sat Apr 08, 06 10:57 pm

Good call, Wolfie!

I only have the brake balance union that works the brake warning light.

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Apr 09, 06 10:52 am

But a brake proportioning valve only restricts the pressure going to the rear wheels.

I had the same problem with my car. I had to wind the valve to max to stop the rears locking up first. It all works well now but you have to press damn hard on the brake to get it to stop. I think the brake pad material in mine is a performance type that only works well when very hot. I have always ment to get around to trying another set of pads but you know how it is.....

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Tue Apr 11, 06 8:03 pm

you may have some moisture lurkin about

I shall flush through with fresh fluid. The pedal is solid.

TrevD · Post by **TrevD** » Tue Apr 11, 06 8:53 pm

stop messin with it kev , breaks need to be good. what is needed to get the new setup on ? im sure we can sort it.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Apr 11, 06 9:03 pm

Just for the record, a liquid cannot be compressed, even water. Only gases can be compressed or expanded, ie air.....that is why the bubble in a spirit level doesnt get bigger if you heat it.....I'll get me coat

charger01 · Post by **charger01** » Tue Apr 11, 06 9:34 pm

Kev I had the same problem on a Trans Am, out of desperation I changed the fluid and hey presto all sorted,it was well contaminated,old fluid came out in congealed lumps

Kev · Post by **Kev** » Tue Apr 11, 06 9:41 pm

Right! Here's another theory. With me linelock plumbed in the rear line, and being about 5" from the MC, when I switch the rears off and depress the pedal am I not getting enough movement on the piston in the MC to fully operate the front discs? My rears are now bedded in and don't tend to lock up, the fronts will probably be de-rusted and bedded in now as well. I need to take it to a brake tester/road/mot thing and test my theories. IE get a front brake pull with the backs on and off. The car has always passed it's brake test at the MOT. JMTCW! Trev! I will be in touch.