Posted: Sat Oct 10, 15 8:53 am
Mopar Muscle Association UK
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db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***
Page 88 of 100
Posted: Sat Oct 10, 15 8:40 pm
Glad I don't have that many to do!
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 15 8:36 pm
So paranoia has caused me a lot of work the last few days...
I've stripped the front hubs and checked bearings, brakes and steering.
Rear wheels off (not the simplest task...) drums apart and checked.
Exhausts off and split down, joints and silencers checked.
Prop, motor & trans mounts checked.
Clutch cover off and clutch inspected.
Oh, and EVERY nut and bolt on the whole damn car!!!
What I found-
A few rockers needed adjusting.
A front wheel bearing needed tightening (taper rollers).
Drivers door mirror hanging off by one screw! That gave a fright when it csme loose at speed!
Clutch pushrod fouling starter- packed it with washers, now fine.
Drums dragging slightly- backed adjusters off a bit.
Exhaust gasket damaged in first flange joint, right under my legs. This is the only thing I found that could possibly explain the noise.
I took it for a test on Monday and the noise is gone
Took it out this evening and caught the door handle badly on my wall
The door is dented and I can't open the door with the external button. Bananarama!!
Repair begins tomorrow...
I've stripped the front hubs and checked bearings, brakes and steering.
Rear wheels off (not the simplest task...) drums apart and checked.
Exhausts off and split down, joints and silencers checked.
Prop, motor & trans mounts checked.
Clutch cover off and clutch inspected.
Oh, and EVERY nut and bolt on the whole damn car!!!
What I found-
A few rockers needed adjusting.
A front wheel bearing needed tightening (taper rollers).
Drivers door mirror hanging off by one screw! That gave a fright when it csme loose at speed!
Clutch pushrod fouling starter- packed it with washers, now fine.
Drums dragging slightly- backed adjusters off a bit.
Exhaust gasket damaged in first flange joint, right under my legs. This is the only thing I found that could possibly explain the noise.
I took it for a test on Monday and the noise is gone
Took it out this evening and caught the door handle badly on my wall
The door is dented and I can't open the door with the external button. Bananarama!!Repair begins tomorrow...
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 15 9:23 pm
I put the 750dp back on for a comparison with the 850.
I had a good drive around local A and B roads and around town to get a real feel for it again.
I'll definitely keep the 750 for street use, it's so much smoother and easier to drive. The 850 demands a much more aggressive driving style which is great fun but hard work!
I've not had chance to test the smaller carb flat out, if I lose a noticeable amount of top end power I may keep the 850 for racing. It's a luxury but if I need the Bananarama!'s an easy sell!
I had a good drive around local A and B roads and around town to get a real feel for it again.
I'll definitely keep the 750 for street use, it's so much smoother and easier to drive. The 850 demands a much more aggressive driving style which is great fun but hard work!
I've not had chance to test the smaller carb flat out, if I lose a noticeable amount of top end power I may keep the 850 for racing. It's a luxury but if I need the Bananarama!'s an easy sell!
Posted: Sun Nov 01, 15 9:40 pm
Like what you did with the bolts.
Posted: Mon Dec 21, 15 11:11 pm
Oh, I'm sorry, did I not mention my nitrous kit?
I bought the basic kit a while ago from a member and have been gradually putting it together and buying the remaining bits I need as they've come up cheap on fleabay.
I'll be replacing the 2" carb spacer with a 1", a 1/2" with 'ears' to support the solenoid and the N2O plate.
I'm teeing off the main fuel line at the reg, running through a separate reg with gauge and N2O safety shutoff to the plate.
Currently jetted for 100hp, I may drop to 50 to try it out. I won't go over 100 until I can swap to forged pistons.
I bought the basic kit a while ago from a member and have been gradually putting it together and buying the remaining bits I need as they've come up cheap on fleabay.
I'll be replacing the 2" carb spacer with a 1", a 1/2" with 'ears' to support the solenoid and the N2O plate.
I'm teeing off the main fuel line at the reg, running through a separate reg with gauge and N2O safety shutoff to the plate.
Currently jetted for 100hp, I may drop to 50 to try it out. I won't go over 100 until I can swap to forged pistons.
Posted: Mon Dec 21, 15 11:48 pm
Don't forget to retard that ignition when those solenoids fire up!!
Posted: Tue Dec 22, 15 8:55 am
Yessir! 
Posted: Tue Dec 22, 15 9:09 am
There's a good chap. Carry on.
Posted: Tue Dec 22, 15 1:09 pm
Nice one Paul that should wake the old girl up a bit !!!!
And add a bit more strain to the gearbox
And add a bit more strain to the gearbox
Posted: Wed Dec 23, 15 4:58 pm
nice one paul ,nitrous is great fun ,shame about your door ,as you have only just painted it too
Posted: Wed Dec 23, 15 9:46 pm
Cheers Terry. Yeah the door really Bananarama! me off! No car owned by a clumsy oaf like me was ever gonna stay 'new' for long... 
Posted: Fri Jan 15, 16 8:27 pm
I've replaced the 2" carb spacer with a 1", plus my home-made solenoid mound plus the N2O plate makes it back up to a 2" riser.
It's not fully plumbed in yet and I've not wired it up but it's looking the part
It's not fully plumbed in yet and I've not wired it up but it's looking the part
Posted: Fri Jan 15, 16 8:39 pm
How are you activating it? WOT Switch?
If it is a DP then sometimes it is easier on the Secondary arm.
If it is a DP then sometimes it is easier on the Secondary arm.
Posted: Fri Jan 15, 16 9:35 pm
Yes wot Pete. Thanks I wouldn't have thought of that!