Mopar Muscle Association UK

Blue wrote: Tue Oct 03, 17 5:07 pm Actually Paul it might be right, I have a vague recollection of fitting a Rollmaster many years ago and although the instructions said dots together It had to be like you have it. Easy enough to check, at TDC the lifters on No1 should be on the back of the lobe, if not you're 180 degrees out.

180* out on the crank just to be absolutely clear? Ok, at least I can check which is correct.
The keyways would be the same as Dave's pic irrespective of the timing gear?

It hadn't occurred to me before seeing Dave's pic that the crank gear can go in 5 different positions. I'm not 100% confident now that the crank gear was on the 0* position when I removed it...

I would imagine that the cam was originally installed straight up on the Crank "O".

Do DaveB's check to make sure you are Ok unless you want to take the timing cover off again.

looking at that diagram the standard key uses the standard timing mark. any other keyway means using the corresponding tooth NOT the standard timing mark.


I would still go with a degree wheel though. if the block has been line bored this moves the toothed wheels closer together and will alter the timing anyway.

had this with Cobra with a 427 sideoiler that had the crank moved up by 10 thou after line boring. the timing chain was also loose but available was a 10 thou shorter kit to take up the slack and to realign the timing.

problem with line boring is that it also puts the gearbox out of alignment. I had to make a centring ring 10thou out of round to realign the gearbox with the crank. (it used to jump out of gear)

Crank cog in 0 slot at TDC, cam cog dot either at top or bottom depending on where no1 lobes end up, that will put it back to where it was. it would have been degreed when it was built, so not essential you do that now.

db wrote: Tue Oct 03, 17 7:30 pm It hadn't occurred to me before seeing Dave's pic that the crank gear can go in 5 different positions. I'm not 100% confident now that the crank gear was on the 0* position when I removed it...

probably be witness marks from the key in the slot that was used the rest would be a bit grubby.

a performance cam will be ground with whatever advance or retard the grinder wanted i.e they would probably intend you to use the 0 slot.

Dave

Thanks all, great info as always
I'm hoping to get back to it in the next few days, currently living apart from the car so it's a pita to find the time!

I made this piston stop tool and I've proved that the original crank tdc mark is spot on. The cam lobes align properly with the lifters now. With both valves closed on #1, lifters are level on #6 (near as dammit). I think I can move on now...

And relax

yay

nice....

plan comes together and all is well

check for bent pushrods.....! on the ones with lifters that may have been bumped at inappropriate times.


Dave

Thanks Dave, I've given them all a little roll and they seem fine.
There's no more apparent damage to lifters or cam either

Well the paranoia wouldn't go away, mainly because the oil pump drive wouldn't line up correctly.
I gave in and pulled the timing case off and all was correct so I went away puzzled...
It was only when I was trying to explain the problem to someone who knows nothing about mechanics that I realised what it was.
I had the oil pump drive 180* out
So the timing case, motor plate and water pump are back on, jack is away, rockers are all adjusted with the help of this...
Won't be long now...

Just for info, it isn't essential you fit the oil pump drive in that position. You can just drop it in anywhere and all that happens is no1 will be at a different position on the cap so you just move the plug leads around to suit. The only thing that might happen is the vacuum can could end up in a less than desirable position when you do that.

Ah ok cheers. To me it was just a sign something wasn't right!
I shan't worry about it again though

Because of the ally heads, normal inlet gaskets don't fit. I'd remembered this about the front and rear seals and applied a thick bead of Wurth's finest. However I'd forgotten that the side gaskets also have to be thinner than stock. The new one's I've bought won't fit so I've re-used the old ones as they're undamaged.