Page 15 of 100
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 12 10:07 am
by db
Dave, if you go back a page you'll see the trans crossmember. I know it's bolt-in but is pretty chunky so hopefully will be ok?
Also you can see the tubular front K-member i've made. Hopefully this along with the motorplate will be up to the job, the full cage creates a lot of rigidity too- if i jack one front corner, the other comes up almost even- there's no twist at all!
I know driving forces are a lot more... persuasive... but we'll see. I can always add more metal at a later date.
I've yet to put in some sort of crossmember between the front 4-link mounts, any thoughts?
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 12 9:21 pm
by db
Time on your hands is a dangerous thing...
I've only gone and bare-metalled me bulkhead
It'll get the DE-OX and POR15 treatment tomorrow.
I'm gonna paint it body-colour, it doesn't have to be a great finish, so i'll use an aerosol.
Main thing i'm after is rust protection so... should i first hit it with Zinc primer, Gravitex stone-chip or something else?
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 12 9:39 pm
by autofetish
Posted: Mon Feb 27, 12 10:41 pm
by db
Wire cup brush in a grinder for the accessible bits, various smaller wire brushes in a drill for the more fiddly bits, then Nitromors to finish. Hard going but effective

Posted: Tue Feb 28, 12 7:41 am
by autofetish
Posted: Tue Feb 28, 12 8:24 am
by Mick
I did mine the other year when i took the inner wings out, i did as you have, then etch primed it, normal primer over the top and body colour then lacquer to finish, all out of cans.
Mick
Posted: Tue Feb 28, 12 8:38 am
by ANTON
Hey db
Looking good I did that to mine last year and I am well chuffed how it turned out. Derek sprayed it for me with rattle can and it came out perfect.
Do your self a favour undo the four bolts the hold the master cylinder on and lean it forward and you will get a great job without having to mask it all up.
Posted: Tue Feb 28, 12 12:59 pm
by db
Mick- ta for the reassurance!
Anton- ta for the tip i'll do that. It been a right pain trying to work round it, i wish i'd thought of it sooner

Posted: Tue Feb 28, 12 1:02 pm
by ANTON
If you want to do it body colour take the trunk lid to a good paint shop and the will match it and put it in rattle cans.

Posted: Tue Feb 28, 12 2:04 pm
by the bishop
I've had rubbish results with POR 15 and I've followed the instructions to the letter... on a nice clean bulkhead like that it deffo wouldn't be my first choice! I think Mick's idea of etch priming would work best

Posted: Tue Feb 28, 12 2:46 pm
by Ivor
Yep, another vote for etch primer here, you can get that in rattle cans and as long as you buy good quality stuff, it'll be fine, just one or one and a half coats, let it flash off for half an hour (air dry) then straight on with a primer.
Let the primer dry completely then give it a nice smooth rub over with a grey Scotcbrite (lessens you chances of rubbing through on the lumps and bumps in the bulkhead) just to key it for topcoating and that should be fine for an engine bay.
Posted: Tue Feb 28, 12 4:18 pm
by db
Hi Bish-
I don't mean Por15 paint i mean 'Metal-Ready' rust preventative. Great stuff, easy to use too.
You need to shift the worst of the rust, them just use a hand pump sprayer. Don't let it dry, give it all another squirt evey 20 mins or so then after an hour or two rinse it & dry it.
It leaves an etch primed surface, ready for primer/ paint
http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/metalreadyreg.pdf
Thanks Ivor

Posted: Wed Feb 29, 12 9:57 am
by Dave999
db wrote:Dave, if you go back a page you'll see the trans crossmember. I know it's bolt-in but is pretty chunky so hopefully will be ok?
Also you can see the tubular front K-member i've made. Hopefully this along with the motorplate will be up to the job, the full cage creates a lot of rigidity too- if i jack one front corner, the other comes up almost even- there's no twist at all!
I know driving forces are a lot more... persuasive... but we'll see. I can always add more metal at a later date.
I've yet to put in some sort of crossmember between the front 4-link mounts, any thoughts?
ooops
yes
forgot.....
think anything you put in to make it a ridgid box will allow the suspension to do its job more efficiently...actually make use of the shocks and springs as intended....
obvioulsy this needs to be offset againts how heavy you could make it by welding extra bits
Dave
Posted: Wed Feb 29, 12 11:33 am
by db
Ta Dave.
Well with Antons encouragement i've done it properly now
Por15'd and zinc primered. Just have a fan heater warming it up ready for some colour today
Oh and i found some grey Scotchbrite Ivor!
Posted: Wed Feb 29, 12 9:56 pm
by db
Coloured, did the inside of the door too inbetween coats...