Mopar Muscle Association UK

Looks really good Db.

Following on from what Miles said, I remember seeing the car being unloaded, when it it came over from Andy Neal...your are really making some excellent progress!

Thanks for the encouragement guys, it's well needed!

Well, we had a few more hiccups today-
Another small fuel leak from the other side of the filter housing- more PTFE needed tomorrow.
An oil leak- oil filter adaptor plate- sorted with gasked paper and a smear of silicone.

WE GOT THE MOTOR FIRED UP TODAY
Switched on the fuel pump- yesterday's leak has stopped and 7psi is showing at the reg. So...
1st attempt at starting resulted in an almighty BANG and flames out the exhausts. Turned the dissy a bit for the-
2nd attempt, much the same. At this point I realised something was up and went through all the basics. I pulled all 8 plugs, put 'em in the leads and turned over the motor- 8 nice fat sparks. Checked all the leads and firing order again, nothing wrong there so I guessed the dissy must be 180* out!
3rd attempt, it ran for a few seconds but very rough. Tweaked the dissy again for the...
4th attempt, it started and sounded great but wouldn't run for more than a few seconds, just long enough to get the strobe on it which showed around 40-50* (this was pumping the throttle, vac plugged. No way would it idle!). I turned the dissy to around 20* for the....
5th attempt. Again, it will only run for a few seconds, the timing looked 15-20* with the strobe and it sounded sweet (headers only , it just won't keep going.

ANY IDEAS you clever lot?

Have you refurbed the Carb?
Are the Float levels working ok? Often if a carb has stood empty the vitron tips shrink and the carb floods all the time and will not adjust out.

It's back to basics, fuel, timing; everything else should work......you will get there....

Yes, i feared that

I would double check TDC - see my comments in your other thread (you have so many)

I've double-double checked it mate
That's one thing i'm sure of, a piston stop don't lie. My calculations for the degree marks could be off but not by much. TBH i've tried from virtually tdc, where it wouldn't start at all, through to 50-60* where it starts to sound rough as hell.
Around the 15* mark it sounds great, it just won't keep going!
Ade has suggested dropping the fuel to 5psi. I'll try that before i give in and strip the carb
Tamzin's off looking at wedding dresses today and i can't really take the girls to the workshop, might get chance tomorrow

Have you checked the float heights, any vacuum leaks ? Is it getting fuel at the carb, have you checked the reluctor gap.
Have you got fresh fuel in it. ?

Triple check the firing order..remember these baby engines have the dizzy going backwards

I spent Sunday on the car and, well, i have good and bad news to report. Mostly bad tho
I fixed the 2nd leak from the filter, then stripped the carb. Lots of crap in there, probably flushed through from the pipes. I gave the metering blocks and bowls a good swill and blasted every orifice with the airline. I found the float height on the BG website and tweaked that, they were only 1/16" out at most. I don't know how to set any other adjustments on the carb or what to set anything to so that might be an issue...
I left the reg at 7psi- everything i've read recommends that.

Mick-
Yes, fresh fuel.
What's a reluctor?
How do i check for vac leaks? I have the pipe blocked at both ends.

I got it all back together, tried to start it- nothing. No fuel pressure at the pump! I banged, it, shook it, nothing. Up-turned it and opened it up, all seemed fine. Lowered it below the fuel level, out comes fuel... Put it back together and it works fine now Airlocked somehow?
Anyway, fired the car up. 3-4 pumps of the throttle and it starts easy, this time i wound the throttle stop screw in a bit so it's racing a bit but at least it kept running! Now it's smoking like hell from the oil filter area- The oil filter adaptor plate was leaking so i cut a paper gasket and siliconed it up. The oil filter is a bugger to tighten once the headers are on so it leaked again! Now it's too hot and slippery to tighten so i spent ages cleaning it and had to use a strap but now i'm scared of overtightening it
I started it again an fannied around trying to get the timing. It's doing around 1500-2000 rpm (no revcounter yet), below that it stalls so I can't check initial timing really as that's not exactly idling?
There seems to be a lot of petrol running into the carb mouths but I don't know if thats normal?
It runs fastest around 35-45* and stalls if i go much below or above that. It's so noisy and smoky it's hard to concentrate and i'm doubting myself cos i'm not sure i believe what i'm seeing... then MORE smoke pours out from the filter area! I got under there with a torch cos i was sure i'd stopped the leak this time and it's bloody PETROL leaking from the reg onto the header and turning to steam
Boy i got out from under the car quick!!!
I fixed that leak and decided to quit, i also realised Jasper left the fans disconnected and things were getting a bit hot.

So... I fitted my prop loop. Ah, how I needed that little achievement!
Though this led me to find another little 'issue', the exhausts and the gearbox crossmember are gonna be fighting over the same space...take a look at the pic...
I may even end up with side exits as there's so little room around the 4-link and axle.

I'm not going to start the engine again until the wiring is finished and the damn thing's home.
I'll figure out if i can tweak the x-member and exhausts or if I have to replace them.
I'll replace the float seals.
I'll go through the timing again from scratch.
I don't think i want to see it again for a few days

db

Are you running a permanent 12v coil or are you using a ballast resistor set up as I cant see one in the pictures.

With the leaking oil filter adapter there is a metal plate under it bolted to the block(with the oil filter attaching bolt) and there is a second gasket under that. Most people don't know that.
How many turns out are you idle mixture screws. Try setting them to about 1 and 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. To set the timing up properly you nee an accurate rev counter. Take the revs to around 300rpm and set the timing at 34 degrees to start and then lower the revs and see what your initial is and the use a vacuum gage to set you idle correctly with maximum manifold vacuum and then recheck your timing.
If you want to have a chat about it give me a call.

Yes to the ballast- it's under the dash. Though now we've realised how hot it gets it'll be moved to the engine bay!

Do you mean the stamped metal plate under the filter? That was where the leak was initially. I've gasketed and siliconed that but then struggled to tighted the filter itself properly due to lack of space and hot oil!!
I may fit my remote kit now, i can't be doing with unnecessary strife like that!

I've not looked at the idle screws, i'll look up the BG website today and see if I can download some proper info.

"Take the revs to around 300rpm and set the timing at 34 degrees to start" You mean 3000rpm ,right?

Thanks Anton, I need a break from it for a few days to refresh my enthusiasm, I might give you a call when I go back to it

He does mean 3000

Your problem is a simple one. Don't worry. It is just carb tuning.

If it has a big cam then a carb set up for a stock engine will not allow it to idle. This is because the engine needs a lot more air at idle.

Did you say that is a BG Demon carb? They normally have an air bleed screw you need to open up.

If not then their may be an adjustment for the secondary throttle blades. Crack them open a bit. You will then be able to turn the primaries closed so it idles.

Ah, the voice of reason has arrived Thanks Dave!

I bought the carb off Mick a couple of years ago. I spoke to him today, he says it's an early BG, not a Demon.
I think he said it was set up for bracket racing? It has jet extensions in the rear bowl, vent baffles and things you'll see in the photos that I don't know the name or purpose of...

It's massively overfuelling i'm sure- you can see petrol pouring from the venturis, I need to sort that first.
I found a damaged O-ring on one float valve assembly, also as Pete says the seals could well be failing, the carb has been stood dry for 2 years since i've had it. I'll order new float seals tomorrow, Real Steel have 'em for about £20 the pair.
I'll strip the carb fully and surgically clean it, i'll make a note of jet sizes and settings and do some serious research over the next few days.

Idle screws are 1.25 turns out.

The BG site only has info on newer Demon carbs, anyone got ideas where I can read up on these older carbs?

Ade (Charger01) has offer to loan me a spare carb to try if I don't have any luck with mine- top fella!

Thanks again for your help folks