Mopar Muscle Association UK

Thanks Mick

Will.. yeah, i guess, if you know what it should read.
Unless it only fails under load or when hot or summat daft like that?

The resister is designed to get very hot so that it has low resistance (around 1.5 ohms) when cold and a much higher resistance when hot (to limit voltage/current to the coil primary).

I thought there was summat weird about them

So would you agree the ballast could be my problem Dave?

Is it the old "Run 1", "Run 2" position problem?
Are you using a key to crank and start the car or is it on a push button?

For a SHORT period you can hot wire the coil with a direct supply to bypass the ballast (you need to get a decent ignition system on it that dispenses with the ballast) to prove to yourself the motor runs ok and also where the fault lies.........

db wrote:I thought there was summat weird about them

So would you agree the ballast could be my problem Dave?

I thought your problem was that the engine started but required constant blipping of the throttle to keep it going?

I must be getting confused.

mmmm think Petes got it

have you wired start on the key to be the igntion 12 volt feed wire
and run to be the starter motor trigger wire

so in run yer igntion is off kaput nada off zilch off

and in start your ignition is on

start is extra contact reachable only by twisting key against spring...... Normally when start is on so is igntion, start just triggers starter solenoid which does the rest igntion is on cos key is past the run position

when at run only, igntion is on otherwise yoiu'd knack yer starter motor by the end of your drive..... they don't like 3000 rpm

if you get em round the wrong way

runs while the key is turned againts the spring but dies instantly...

been there done that...

mine was all rewired in this area by previous owner who used RED for all wires

no fun

dave

If I was wiring it Dave i'd agree but Jasper has an astonishing brain for techy crap like this. He's checked over his work and is happy it's right.
He's been doing vehicle wiring for years so knows his stuff

After all this, it may be nothing to do with the ballast, but it'll be nice to eliminate another suspect at the very least.

Do you have a spare orange box to eliminate that from the equation.
I have a couple spare if you need to borrow one.

Dave wrote:

db wrote:I thought there was summat weird about them

So would you agree the ballast could be my problem Dave?

I thought your problem was that the engine started but required constant blipping of the throttle to keep it going?

Can you just reply to my comment here mate? I just need clarification?

Sorry Dave-
It's almost impossible to keep it going but yes, basically I pump it 3 or 4 times, crank it over and hit the throttle hard as it fires (tricky on your own!).
Mostly it dies anyway but occasionally it'll catch and keep going for a few seconds so long as i keep the revs up 3000 or so. If i let the revs drop it dies.
Anton- It's not an Orange box, it's an FBO direct replacement box, coil and resistor, all brand new from Neil Willett, ages ago!

If it starts and if you keep pumping the throttle to rev it between 3000-4000 rpm then go back to my original diagnosis earlier in the thread. It is nothing to do with the ignition. You just need to let more air and fuel in.

I had the same problem with my sixpack on my 440. Worked fine on a stock engine. Fitted it to my rebuilt 440 and it would not keep going.

I spent weeks trying to work out the problem.
In the end a mate held the throttle open a bit and kept squirting fuel into the top of the carb and it kept running while he did that.

Crank open the secondaries a little on the adjustment for that. It is usually a little screw next to the secondary throttle shaft. Then richen the idle mixture a bit too.

db wrote: all brand new from Neil Willett, ages ago!

I have just had to have my mini starter that I purchased four years ago from Neil rebuilt, I had never used it and only took it out of the box three weeks ago, because of the tight clearance between the terminals and the block I checked with my meter to make sure that nothing was touching where it shouldn't and found it was. So the starter was whipped off and checked on the floor and found it was dead so I took it to a local electrical specialist, where a freind work and was present when it was stripped only to find it was not new inside. to say I was a bit miffed is putting it mildly. heres a picture of the actuating plunger that was removed. Even at mates rates it cost £65 to be fully rebuilt.

Just because it comes out of a new box don't mean its works get it checked


"All that glitters is not gold"

By the way I am not implying the Neil knew about this.

You're right Guy, I shouldn't make assumptions!

Dave, thanks I can see what you mean. Luckily cos of my hi-rise inlet i can just get on the secondary adjuster with the carb still on! I have the mixture screws 1.5 turns at the minute. try your suggestions at the next installment...

Better to start too rich than too lean.

True! Though the plugs and exhaust are very black and sooty.
Is that just from me pumping neat fuel to get it started (and the previous float valve fuel leak) or might it point to something else?
It also misfires badly when it does go, i wonder if some of the plugs are fouled now?

Petrol no longer pours out of the venturi by the way, so i've fixed that with the new float valves.
BEFORE I fixed the fuel leak, it definitely started slightly BETTER.
Maybe as Dave says it's showing up a lean condition now which was masked by the leak!
And the plugs are fouled just to add to the confusion???