Re barrel wheels

[Matthew Saxon]

I had not even asked that! I was so focussed on the bolt pattern and offset it hadnt crossed my mind. Thanks for bringing it up. My assumption was that because they can offer a 4 x 4 stud pattern it would be OK but I havent confirmed that.

[Blue]

Unfortunately cast wheels usually only come in one offset that is never optimal and that ties your hands somewhat. It doesn’t help that the back axle is a bit on the wide side as well so the only offset you can get to work might be on narrower rim than you’d really want to use. There is a trick on these cars that might help. There first point of contact is usually the leaf spring, with a minimum amount of welding you can get offset hangers to move the spring inboard 3/4” on each side. This can really help with wheel choices. Another point, these cars were built by humans so you will have a discrepancy on wheel arch space from side to side, measure and find out which is the tight side and use that for all future decisions.

[Matthew Saxon]

Well I had a good chat with Minilite today, the wheels come as blanks in various diameters / widths, the wider wheel blanks also come in 2 versions with specific offset ranges to allow for machining a deeper or shallower offset / backspace. So it looks like within reason the centre bore, pcd and backspace can all be custom.

At the moment the existing rims at the rear are 9.75” with 275/60 rubber, on a 4.75 backspace but they are tight to the springs maybe 0.25” and very close on the arches which have been rolled and trimmed. So reducing that to a 9” rim with say a 255 tyre I could go to a 4.25” backspace just to get a bit more breathing room, but I am tempted to go down to an 8” and 235 with 4” backspace for peace of mind.

Up front I think if I can make it work my ideal would be a 7” rim for the vanity reason that the spokes on a 7” Minilite finish inside the rim rather than creeping over it which I prefer.

Minilite provide full size sectional drawings of the rim with the offsets and backspaces marked on, so I think the safest thing to do would be to construct a jig from these with the tyre cross section as well and physically test in situ. As you point out on paper and in the flesh are very different so measuring and testing first will be essential to spare my wallet.

Sorry for being a saddo, but here’s some more renders I did to see how the Minilites would look, oh and a speed stripe for fun

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[Dave999]

before you bite the bullet

you can swap to 5 on 4.5 PCD

if its disk brake on the front already its the small inner bearing spindle same as austrlian
so the VH VJ hubs and rotor with 4.5 PCD will fit
rear i guess you re-stud the axles what axle/diff has it got?

Dave

[Matthew Saxon]

before you bite the bullet

you can swap to 5 on 4.5 PCD

if its disk brake on the front already its the small inner bearing spindle same as austrlian
so the VH VJ hubs and rotor with 4.5 PCD will fit
rear i guess you re-stud the axles what axle/diff has it got?

Dave

I did not know that I could do a straight hub and rotor swap for a valiant. Rear axle and diff, I am assuming taht it is the 7 1/4 but Sticky did race it a bit so maybe its had a replacement I will need to ask him. The additional cost / effort at the front end with the control arms needing replacing plus if I used a 73 or later ending up with a wider track had made me think that was something for later on down the line. But if it is just a hub and rotor swap thats worth considering. Thank you.

[Blue]

As far as I know all the V8 RHD cars came with an 8.75” rear axle. Aftermarket halfshafts are avilable to convert to 4.50 PCD. I wasn’t aware you can convert the front with Australian parts, I’ll have to remember that!

[Matthew Saxon]

As far as I know all the V8 RHD cars came with an 8.75” rear axle. Aftermarket halfshafts are avilable to convert to 4.50 PCD. I wasn’t aware you can convert the front with Australian parts, I’ll have to remember that!

Thanks Blue, is it correct that there are a couple of different spline patterns that were used?

[Blue]

If you are talking about halfshafts, all 8.75” axles have the same spline count.

[Matthew Saxon]

If you are talking about halfshafts, all 8.75” axles have the same spline count.

Yes thanks I think I was getting misled by the halfshafts for a modified diff that I had seen from a supplier in the US. I think at the moment I am going to stick with the 5x4 pattern, there’s a few more pressing things I should focus on, mainly getting it back to regular use, I think David hadn’t had much chance to use it for the past couple of years so I’m sure it will need some fettling. Start simple.

[Matthew Saxon]

While I'm trying to make a decision on rim sizes I had a question about staggered sizing.

The range of tyre sizes widely available in a 15" 9J rim, with 245 to 255 tyres for the rear works out at 26.25 to 27" total wheel diameter.

For the fronts, from what I have picked up here and elsewhere it seems that trying to stay below 26" total diameter is advisable.
Looking at widely available section sizes and based on a 15" 7J rim I ended up with the following:

215 = 26" or 25.5" total diameter

205 = 26.25" or 25.5" total diameter

I would like to be able to carry a basic steel spare that would be able to be used on the front or back as a get me home or somewhere convenient option. I'd be interested to know what people think about the size difference front to back that would be manageable for a short distance.
So the most extreme difference in total diameter would be 1.5" down to 0.5".

[Blue]

I don’t think it would be any great problem if you adjust your driving to suit. My tyres are 27” and 28” tall and my spare is around 26”, much bigger and it wouldn’t fit in the well.

[Matthew Saxon]

Thanks Blue.