db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***

db · Post by db » Tue Jan 24, 12 12:15 pm

Baccccc- 1st pic is my existing pump, is the 2nd pic the one i need? The casting looks the same apart from the bottom hose exiting on the side i need, and a couple of extra bolt holes on the ends!

db · Post by db » Tue Jan 24, 12 6:53 pm

Today's jobs done:
Oil filter relocator bits out of the de-rust tank, cleaned up and sprayed.
Trans poly bush assembled, plates made ( i found a handy plate with holes in the right place!) and welded to trans crossmember. Now derusting (1/2 at a time cos tank isn't big enough

)
Slip yoke removed from prop and diff yoke measured, ready to go off for new prop to be made.
B-bod pedal arrived from Anton for me to copy.
Yoke clamps arrived from Philth.
Clutch fork boot and tailshaft seal arrived from Stateside.

db · Post by db » Sat Jan 28, 12 2:36 pm

Trans mount finished

db · Post by db » Fri Feb 03, 12 1:56 pm

One step forward, 3 steps back...

So, The ally rad i ordered about 4 years ago came out the box for a test fit and the bottom hose is on the wrong side

It turns out that the early pump is on the right side

I can buy a pump but it's another £60 out of a fast-shrinking budget

Amazingly Wolfman wanted to do a straight swap so 2 days later i had the right pump in my hand for the price of postage

So, I bolted it up... or tried to...
The iron casting is much thinner so now the pulleys no longer line up, if i move the alternator back in line it'll hit the rocker. The crank pulley spacer i spent a couple of hours making is redundant, the alternator spacers i spent ages on no longer fit, the rad pipe fouls the motorplate and the bolts are all different lengths

Well i've 'adjusted' the motor plate so that's now fine, found bolts that fit and worked out where the alternator will now sit. I just need to get a spacer made to stand the pump pulley 1/2" off the pump drive.
I'm off to see my friendly local engineer in a bit

I've also been making my clutch pedal, thanks to Ade for donating an A-body one as a donor and thanks to Anton for the loan of a correct B-body one to copy.
You can see the differences in the pics.
I've flattened out the main lever, Made the rod pivot out of a cut-down bolt which i'll weld in along with the spring pivot which the old pedal donated.
The cross-piece was tricky cos of the thickness of the steel and all the bends but a blowtorch, lump hammer and vice got it sorted!
The pedal pivot i'm getting 'engineered'- Instead of roller bearings we're going for oilite bronze flanged bushes. He's turning a sleeve to suit and will then weld it into the pedal. It might be done today...
More progress later hopefully

Oh, and i've installed a fireplace in the living room...

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Fri Feb 03, 12 2:10 pm

Epic effort Paul, that's excellent, you are a credit to the MMA!

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Fri Feb 03, 12 2:38 pm

Paul

Just put a ali spacer behind the water pump pulley to correct your belt issue and then you save all your alternator spacers and bottom pulley spacer.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Feb 03, 12 6:03 pm

ANTON wrote:Paul

Just put a ali spacer behind the water pump pulley to correct your belt issue and then you save all your alternator spacers and bottom pulley spacer.

I don't think so, it's just the angle of the picture; in fact you need to do the opposite and space the bottom pulley out to match the motor plate thickness.....

db · Post by db » Fri Feb 03, 12 9:42 pm

No Anton's right Pete. I HAD spaced the crank pulley as you suggest and had all 3 pulleys nicely aligned. THEN i swapped pumps and it all went titsup

HOWEVER, after a big push today, THE MOTOR IS ACTUALLY HUNG ON THE MOTOR PLATE

I spaced the crank pulley out 1/2" (actually needs another 2mm but hey...) I was gonna see my pet engineer to get a spacer made, no-one's gonna see it so in the end i did it with my trusty grinder.

I've also fitted the timing plate from Bacceroo

and found enough bolts to fasten the whole lot down.
I'm very happy with how it's all turned out, at some point i'll make nicer alt. spacers & paint the pump orange.

NEXT PROBLEM- the top pipe to the inlet manifold is smaller

Any ideas how i can go from 3/4" to 1"? are hose reducers available anywhere?

db · Post by db » Fri Feb 03, 12 9:49 pm

Some precision engineering...

I didn't have any 12mm plate so i made 2x 6mm.
Once again the goddam bolt are now too short...

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Feb 03, 12 9:57 pm

Sorry, Anton and DB, not paying attention.

Glad you are making progress.

db · Post by db » Sat Feb 04, 12 9:49 pm

Another big push today, I now have a WORKING CLUTCH!!!

Terry, my engineer mate, made the pedal pivot last night.
He welded the tube into the pedal then pressed in the oilite bronze bushes.
I welded the rest of it together and gave it a blast of gloss black.

db · Post by db » Sat Feb 04, 12 10:06 pm

Next up was the Z-bar.
From my trusty Kellogs pattern i hacked up a bit of 2x2" box and with some serious heat bent it into shape. It needed bit of tweaking to get it snugly into place and level, then it was out with the welder again

It's not as close to the brake pipe as it loks, by the way

db · Post by db » Sat Feb 04, 12 10:16 pm

Once the Z-bar was in, i could measure the clutch fork properly. I needed to chop 1.5" out of it.
After welding the two halves back together I plated over the open side to beef it up a bit.
It sure was nice to finally assemble all the bits, press that pedal and feel the clutch operate for the first time

Adrian Worman · Post by **Adrian Worman** » Sat Feb 04, 12 10:18 pm

Well done Paul, you done good stuff there mate

db · Post by db » Sat Feb 04, 12 10:23 pm

Thanks for the bits and the encouragement mate

Mopar Muscle Association UK

db's 66 Belvedere FOR SALE