Will´s 1968 Dodge Charger

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Fri Oct 12, 12 4:42 pm

If you hone the last few thou with torque plates you should be OK.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Fri Oct 12, 12 6:03 pm

Cool. I assume you are not going to cross-bolt the caps/Block.

Personally I would no do it, I think you will weaken the pan rails.......

GTXJim · Post by **GTXJim** » Fri Oct 12, 12 6:20 pm

Dave is right it's the honing with the torque plates that's important

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Wed Nov 07, 12 9:26 am

honing with the torque plates

thanks

The honing plate is a metal plate that simulates the head being bolted on.
As you tighten the head down the cylinder walls desort and changes shape.
So its important to use this. Learn somthing new every day

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So

Brakes

Front installed dodge viper caliper. The kit uses a spacer plate (red) to fit viper calipers. Also there are pad shim plates to bring the pad futher in. (gold with holes in )

Q. The spindel nut (wheel bearing) I take it i just nipp it up as its a cone roller bearing ???

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Steve · Post by **Steve** » Wed Nov 07, 12 9:44 am

Will, thats seriously nice mate! Youre attention to detail and finish is very impressive..... Keep it comin

Cheers Steve

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Wed Nov 07, 12 10:04 am

autofetish wrote: Q. The spindel nut (wheel bearing) I take it i just nipp it up as its a cone roller bearing ???

And where is your workshop manual young man?

The instructions below should read "90-in/lbs and then back off one slot".

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Wed Nov 07, 12 10:21 am

Dave wrote:
autofetish wrote: Q. The spindel nut (wheel bearing) I take it i just nipp it up as its a cone roller bearing ???
And where is your workshop manual young man?

The instructions below should read "90-in/lbs and then back off one slot".

Thanks dave a massive help as always.

Pete hope i did you proud nice kit thanks

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Nov 13, 12 2:49 pm

74challenger318 wrote: 2k clear will lift if not done with a etch

correct again it lifted

striped off all the clear paint and rubbed with wd40 will leave it like this now.

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autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Nov 13, 12 3:16 pm

After spending too much time on the orginal wiper motor i gave up. The inner winding are fa bucked .

So i spend even more time running around scrap yards with a battery checking the speed of motors trying to find a modem wiper motor that will

Fit,geared correct,park alone, not to fast and not to slow.

Well i have it.

Might save some of you alot of $$ and time.

VW T4 Transporter front wiper motor 7 quid off ebay

Also used on some vw golfs im told

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First step is to cut down the tread holes to the pre mark postion

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No fancy tools here

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Next make a plate that will fit the car studs (use gasket for template) and the new motor studs.

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The nice thing about the vw motor is it has splines on the shalft so you can fit the arm at any postion. So when you make the plate dont worry about motor location just get it in the middle

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The next problem is the axle on the orginal motor sticks out more that the vw one does.

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To make this arm you could so easyly just cut the old one and weld a bit of metal so it sticks out more. i did want to cut up my orginal one as was in test stage so i made one badly.

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You should now have a modem motor that turns at simular speed in the same place as the old you can now just clip on the orginal wiper mech and fanny is your ant.

Below is a cable wiring diagram the front motor is the one on the left.

http://www.t4-wiki.de/wiki/images/Elekt ... d_1999.jpg

can some cleaver person attache that incase link dont work in future

For a 2 speed slow and fast really easy.

If you want ajustable inter and water wash 3 wipe then you gona have fun.

Im now building a switch to use in J 0 T 1 2 3

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Cleaned up on car
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Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Tue Nov 13, 12 3:41 pm

As i started reading i was dreading seeing the end result as I had a feeling it was going to be horrible.

But actually you damn well pulled it off!

I think that looks bloody good. Trick even.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Tue Nov 13, 12 3:49 pm

Very creative and clever.
Please update us to how it works in practice - sufficient torque, etc.

Well done!

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Tue Nov 13, 12 4:11 pm

Pete wrote:Very creative and clever.
Please update us to how it works in practice - sufficient torque, etc.

Well done!

With the wiper on the car there they seam to work great and have loads of power no screen in at mo but they will rip you hands off.

Ivor · Post by **Ivor** » Tue Nov 13, 12 4:14 pm

Where there's a Will there's a way!

I'll get me coat...

Cannonball · Post by **Cannonball** » Tue Nov 13, 12 4:39 pm

nice one wil only bit that could be better and maybe it can not be done because of stud locations the mtr would look better running level with the upper rail on the bulk head,

jee up you have virtually built a car and using viper brakes while Allkiller is slashing us about them, ha ha,

Blue · Post by **Blue** » Tue Nov 13, 12 5:33 pm

I used a Mk2 Astra wiper motor on the Dart. I made a bracket and flipped it so it was hidden inside the car. Took a bit of working out but it worked perfectly. Gained intermittent wipe which would have been useful had I ever driven it in the wet

Don't have a picture of the motor installation, but you can see where it isn't anymore...