Phelonic Carb Spacer

[Steve]

Thats exactly what I did (black tack which is much stickier) and moved it all over the air cleaner top. Built it up until I picked up bits of the hood pad. I have space for the 1" but only just and it looks daft with the carb so high. The one I took off was just a dense fibre one so Im hoping the 1,/2" one will be plenty to cut heat transfer

Ive gone with an RPC ported one from John Woolfe Racing. Order on its way and 1" heading back to them. Great service to say the least

[RobTwin]

We fitted a 1/2" spacer on our Sport Satellite, to help with hot-starting and vapour lock issues (amongst other improvements) and it seems to have done the trick

[Steve]

Glad it fixed your issue Rob. Ive got my fingers and toes crossed that it works, or at least helps. I wish I had tried this years ago. I looked initially and saw a spacer in there so thought it had one. When I took the carb off to freshen it up with a rebuild, I found it was just about a 1/4" or less in thickness and made of fibre stuff and not very dense. The phelonic spacer is much more robust and dense, nicely made bit of kit with double gaskets and longer studs included. It can only help to be honest

[Dave999]

is that JUST the choke flap or is it part of the secondary system air flow control?

if it is over the smaller bores its a choke. take it off or pin it open

if its over the larger secondary bores its part of the air velocity control system spring loaded or mass loaded to open based on air flow speed, disconnecting it would be unwise unless you drive at WOT all the time

[ah yes its the choke, can see better on PC than on phone]

if you have a 4 barrel carb with a 4 hole manifold a 4 hole spacer will be better....

the open spacer will just cause air flow to stall as it expands out of the carb barrel and then has to bunch up again to get through the hole in the manifold

won't make much difference at wide open throttle but for general drivability the 4 hole spacer is the way to go
or you could hack the centre out of you manifold so it matches the open spacer...

what manifold is it?

If it is a dual plane:- half the carb for one set of 4 cylinders and half a carb for the other?
The open spacer will allow communication between all 4 which depending on use may or may not be a good thing.
It would remove the benefits of having the dual plane manifold in the first place.


Dave

[RobTwin]

1/2" was about the max we could go too, as we have an Edelbrock Performer RPM inlet which is already a bit taller than the std Performer. Blu-tack helped us establish how high we could go too
And we opted for the 4-hole version to match the carb/inlet

As Stu mentioned in our Workshop thread, the extra height meant he had to put a bit more bend in the kickdown linkage to make it all work

[Stu Twin]

Yes i had to bend the KD linkage rod mainly because having raised the carb, it would have increased the angle of the rod enough to foul the underside of the air cleaner.
Non-stock K&N drop base and a Holley, so it may not be an issue on yours Steve.

[Steve]

Thanks as always Dave, your knowledge never ceases to amaze me!

The flap is over the smaller bores and I am happy its just a choke flap. Ive decided to just fix it open so if I ever decide to wire the choke up in the future, it will all still be in place. Im not sure if I ever will but if I take them out, Im not convinced I wont lose the parts

The choke body has a coiled spring in it that hooks behind a lever that moves the flap as the spring uncoils when the power is on. It has a 90 degree bend at the very end of the spring. Ive basically put the spring the other side of the lever so it efectively pushes the flap to the open position permanently. I havent altered any parts so it will all go back to normal if needed.

The manifold is PN 280631 which is the original 68 HP 4 barrel manifold so I have gone for the matching ported spacer that matches the bottom of the carb and the 4 manifold apertures.

Ive got a small issue with a tiny bog if I put my foot down so while I was rebuilding the carb I cleaned and tested the accelerator pump circuit and have changed the metering rod springs to one step stiffer. Hoping all of these things combined will help with the fuel percolation and bog....fingers crossed

[Steve]

Thanks Stu. Ive got the factory dual snorkel on mine so I dont think I will have an issue with the kickdown rod, again, fingers crossed.

On a side note, its great to finally be able to do this stuff in a garage on a bench with decent lighting etc

[Derek]

Can you just remove the choke flap and associated linkages?

That’s what I’d do. Also 4 hole spacer for a 4 hole intake for smoother airflow, on an open intake you can use either.

What about 2 holes.

[Blue]

I’d use a 4 hole on that as well. Also make sure the holes in the spacer and indeed the gasket are the same size or bigger than the carb throttle bores or else it will act as a restricter.

[Steve]

The spacer I have ordered to replace the 1" has 4 holes the same size as the two larger bores and the holes in the manifold

Are you considering a spacer Derek? Do you have any warm starting issues out of interest?

[Steve]

Been treading water this morning waiting for the spacer to land so decided to make a carb stand. It keeps all the linkages off the workbench and keeps the carb steady. Wish I had made it before I started the project...typical

[Steve]

DDay today. Everything back on and running fine in the garage. No issues with the kickdown linkage.Tried various hot start scenarios and seems much better than before. Weather been terrible today so will take her out next dryish day for a proper test

[Steve]

Dry day here today so took the car out for a run. Shes running beautifully mith no bogging evident at all. Looks like the carb being cooler and the change in step up springs has done the trick, fingers crossed. Hot starting much better too. Time will tell as with everything!

Thanks to all for your help, greatly appreciated as always