Page 1 of 3
Timing
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 16 11:36 am
by CRAIG
After fitting the correct plugs in my 383 I want to check the timing again.
Does it need to be in drive to do this?
Also whats the best timing settings and procedure?
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 16 11:58 am
by Pete
It depends on your set up.
I assume you have a pretty stock Dizzy with mechanical advance.
You are aiming for 34 degrees all in at around 3000 rpm and then as much initial timing as you can get - given the limitations of a stock dizzy. This is the killer.
When checking your initial timing it is best to have the car chocked and in "D" and at the correct idle speed. Often you can find that the timing can drop out once in gear and this usually points to the Convertor being too tight.
There are loads of threads on here about setting timing, use the "Search" facility and have a good read to understand the principles and issues.
Thanks
Pete
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 16 1:29 pm
by Charger
Posted: Mon Jul 18, 16 1:54 pm
by CRAIG
Thanks guys I will have a read and then have a play.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 12:18 pm
by CRAIG
Had a play, moved dizzy until engine revs levelled off. Tried to start but dragged starter a bit so backed it off a little until it was happy.
Checked with timing light, looks like I have 20 degree initial.
I have connected vac to manifold vac for now, I have ordered the plate that goes in dizzy from Turnip and will pick it up at nats.
Once timings spot on I will go thru carb to try and cure my backfire through carb.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 12:42 pm
by Blue
Yea around 20 degrees initial is what most stockish Mopar engines seem to want these days, long way off from what the old manuals will tell you.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 4:02 pm
by CRAIG
Just took Charger for a drive after altering the initial timing, seems to run a lot smoother, still backfires through carb when you go from idle ish speed and then put your foot down.
When cold, engine idles at about 700rpm, after a 10 minute run its idling at 1500rpm and then slowly drops to about 1200rpm. Is that normal?
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 5:37 pm
by latil
Around 800 for manual and 900 on auto.
Posted: Thu Jul 21, 16 5:46 pm
by Pete
Set it in "D". I would guess it will be lower than 900 but there are so many variables - engine tune/ cam/ etc; and most importantly torque convertor stall. Set it so it is a comfortable consistent idle and then see how much the rpm increases when you shift to "N".
Be careful, chock the car and do not raise the revs too high or get someone to hold it on the brakes for greater safety.
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 16 7:16 am
by ANTON
Sound like your float level in the carb might be too high causing the backfire when accelerating and causing the idle to be too high till the excess fuel burns off and then settles. A vacuum leak can cause erratic idle.
Posted: Fri Jul 22, 16 1:02 pm
by CRAIG
Float levels are set just so it trickles out of sight holes when you rock engine a little.
I will set them a bit lower and see if it helps.
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 16 10:42 am
by XP29
I have got myself a (2nd hand) Snap on MT1261A timing light and am in the process of checking my timing. Bear with me as its first time I've done it. Got the lead on plug 1. At tickover of 750 it's reading 26degs at 3000rpm it's reading 36. My cars a 383 manual.
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 16 11:17 am
by XP29
I did forget to pull the vac pipe off the carb and plug it. Done that and turned the dizzy so I have 20 at idle (700rpm) and it seems to be holding at 34 at 3-3500rpm
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 16 3:08 pm
by XP29
Been and checked it again, I'm at 21 at idle and from 2500 to 3500 it seems to be staying about 34 degrees. So I'm presuming I don't need to fit a limiting disc in my dizzy?
I am still getting a bogging down as I set off flooring it (as in on the strip).
Posted: Tue Aug 02, 16 4:31 pm
by Pete
Sounds perfect Chris, you need more pump shot.