db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***

Guy · Post by **Guy** » Thu Sep 22, 11 6:43 pm

Oh that dont look good

its because of things like this, my Dart has been delayed I have had to redo all off the welding on the five link rear end etc

Post by **TyreFryer** » Thu Sep 22, 11 7:07 pm

Hmmmm, think I'll double check the geometry on my Dart while I'm at it.

db · Post by db » Thu Sep 22, 11 8:27 pm

Luckily i did start from scratch with my rear end so i know that's all bang-on.

I'm just going to stick with the single tube rack mount for now as i need to get MOT'd and registered asap.
I'll pull it back 3" as in plan C and correct the height to line it up with at least one of the A-arms

Once it's registered i'll tear it all down and start the front end from scratch aswell.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Fri Sep 23, 11 10:50 am

latil wrote:I have one of those tube benders,not good on thin wall stuff,not bad on 2mm upwards. I find it tends to flatten the tube mid bend and tube goes egg shaped.

I also have this and if you fill the tube with casting sand packed tight and then weld the ends up they do come out better. (lot of work) I also try ed heating with oxy till it was red hot and didn't really help.

latil · Post by **latil** » Fri Sep 23, 11 11:40 am

Not really practical on pipe this size is to fill with molten lead,do the bending and then melt it out. A method that I've used on small bore model steam engine pipes.

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Fri Sep 23, 11 11:47 am

latil wrote:Not really practical on pipe this size is to fill with molten lead,do the bending and then melt it out. A method that I've used on small bore model steam engine pipes.

Good tip like that

db · Post by db » Sun Sep 25, 11 9:57 am

I finally have the rack in the right place and tack-welded in

It took most of yesterday to get it lined up and all that did was prove how badly the A-arm mounts were out of line

I got the rack millimetre-perfect level and centred in all planes, only to find one wheel kicked out at the back. This could only be due the bottom A-arms being unequal.
Luckily they're adjustable on the rod-ends so i managed to get the wheels symmetrical without any more cutting & welding. Obviously once i've got registering sorted it'll still all have to come off but it's good enough for now

db · Post by db » Thu Oct 20, 11 10:49 am

I've had a poly steering column bush made so that's sorted now

I need to shorten the steering shaft now as i've moved the rack back, only i'm a bit concerned about the way the uj attaches to the shaft- it just slips on and is drilled for a little nut & bolt. Doesn't seem very secure to me?

The lower uj mounts on splines onto the rack, so much better.

db · Post by db » Thu Oct 20, 11 11:31 am

Brakes pretty much sorted now with Daisy's assistance

I've made all the brackets & run the cable, we plumbed in the copper lines and mounted everything. Just waiting on a couple of adaptors to connect up the Linelok and i can bung in the fluid.

Only concern is i didn't allow for the Z-bar, may have to re-route a bit when i try to fit.

I've 'adjusted' the Parking brake release handle to clear the cage.

I had to drill the cage outrigger to route the cable.

db · Post by db » Thu Oct 20, 11 11:36 am

I made this guide for the turn in the Parking brake cable. It may need to be stronger but it's bolt-on so i can re-do if needed.

I've cunningly located the bias adjuster so the knob appears under the seat.

The rear cable inners were differnt lengths so i made this little spacer. They may equalise once it's all under tension. If so, i can simply take this out.

db · Post by db » Thu Oct 20, 11 11:38 am

This is the plate for the rear cables, again it's bolt-on so i can move or relocate easily if it turns out bad

Post by **TyreFryer** » Thu Oct 20, 11 11:43 am

You're doing a great job there Paul, very fortunate on the assistant front too!

Did you get the floor painted in the end?

db · Post by db » Thu Oct 20, 11 11:46 am

Not yet mate, all efforts focused on gettin the car running for now. It's a definite for next year tho

db · Post by db » Tue Nov 08, 11 10:47 pm

Time for a long overdue progress report...
After weeks of struggling with lack of time, money and enthusiasm i've got somewhere!

I have WORKING BRAKES!!! They need re-bleeding but there's pressure there and the linelok and parking brake work.
I re-routed the pipes below the m/cyl as i realised they'd be in the way of the clutch rod.

It has a face! I've put the brand new grille & headlamp surrounds on as well as the tail & reversing (soon to be rear indicator) lamps, just need orange bulbs

Tomorrow my mate Ritchie will have a pair of 7" halogen headlamps, a neat washer pump & bottle and a better upper steering shaft u.j.- a Vauxhall one which is the right shaft diameter but has a flat on one side- much safer than relying on a teeny nut n bolt!

I finally have a bellhousing on the way- Thanks Jon.

I've ordered all the hose and fittings i need to complete the fuel system.

I have a huge nitrous bottle on the way- ebay bargain! (I won't be plumbing the N2O in til after registration, etc)

Tamzin's brother plans to wire the whole car for me from scratch once the motor's in- what a star!

mopar_mark · Post by **mopar_mark** » Tue Nov 08, 11 11:47 pm

Sorry, haven't seen your thread for a while.

db wrote: I'm a bit concerned about the way the uj attaches to the shaft- it just slips on and is drilled for a little nut & bolt. Doesn't seem very secure to me?

That bolt looks similar size to mine, assuming a good quality bolt, it will perform well in a shear application.

Top work on the rest of the work, looks like your making good progress now

Mopar Muscle Association UK

db's 66 Belvedere FOR SALE