db's 66 Belvedere ***FOR SALE***

db · Post by db » Sun Apr 29, 12 3:18 pm

Well good old Real Steel got the rebuild kit to me next day, so i spent a pleasant Saturday evening stripping and cleaning

It wasn't bad at all inside, just hardened gaskets from age and some crud washed through from the fuel pipes.

I've tried to i.d. the carb but i think it's a bit of a hybrid, Holley didn't make a 750 vac sec with 2 corner idle screws, 2 metering blocks and no choke horn. The only problem is that i was short a couple of gaskets in the rebuild kit, luckily the old ones were good.
I checked the floats were good too.

It's now all back together, baseline adjustments done and ready to refit.

In case anyone's interested...
Primary jets are .072, Sec .086
Idle mix screws 1 1/4 turns out.
Squirter pump 30cc, jet 31
Throttle blades 172

Power valve 65

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Apr 29, 12 3:23 pm

You really need a vacuum gauge as with a 6.5 PV it may be continuously open,thus adding to the fuel flooding problem....I would have thought a 3.5 or even a 2.5 may be needed. Are there 2 PV's or is one blanked off?

db · Post by db » Sun Apr 29, 12 5:42 pm

There's only a pv in the primary, the other's blanked off.

I've got a vac gauge and there's a vac port under the butterflys.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Apr 29, 12 6:16 pm

Spot on, as soon as you have got it to idle at a sensible RPM (even if it is a bit high) then check the vac.

If it is 2" above the PV then OK, if not then a lower PV is needed.......If the PV is open it is like being 6-8 jet sizes up and enriching at idle............

Dave-R · Post by **Dave-R** » Sun Apr 29, 12 7:05 pm

With an unknown carb/engine combo I would start with a 2.5 PV just so I know it is not going to open at idle and then measure the vacuum once correct idle speed and mixture are set and then fit the PV needed.

db · Post by db » Sun Apr 29, 12 10:06 pm

I just had a bit of doubt so had another look at the powervalves...
The old one is stamped 65 but the new one, despite being genuine Holley and coming with a little diagram to i.d. it... hasn't got anything stamped on it

There's a faint hint of what could be a 6 and a 5 and as best as i can measure externally they seem the same. Bloody annoying!

Cheers for the advice. I'll bang the carb on tomorrow cause i want to know that fuel leak has stopped but i'll get a 2.5 before i try to set anything.

Pete · Post by **Pete** » Sun Apr 29, 12 10:26 pm

Default shipping is 6.5.
The lower the figure the lower the resistance in the spring, nowt to do with diameter, etc............

db · Post by db » Sun Apr 29, 12 11:19 pm

Right-o ta.
Real Steel list the full range of pv's, I'll order one tomorrow

db · Post by db » Wed May 02, 12 7:37 pm

I've fitted the 2.5 power valve and re-checked i'd assembled it correctly, no ports covered by gasket or anything daft like that.
Float levels with motor not running: fuel just spills over the threads when i rock the car.
Fuel pressure: 6psi (This immediately drops to zero when the pump stops. Is that right?)
Idle mixture screws (primary only) 1.5 turns out.
Primary idle screw: contact with lever + 2 turns
Secondary idle screw: contact +1/4 turn (as per rebuild kit instructions)
Reluctor gap (for Mick...): Cereal packet card just slips in there.

3 pumps of the throttle, turn the key, engine fires and immediately stalls.
I tried this several times, turning the dissy a tiny bit each time.
At it's best it gave a healthy roar, then immediately stalled.
I just got it to run a couple of times with a big pull on the throttle lever and it ran for a few seconds, badly misfiring.
All 8 exhausts got warm.
All plugs black (presumably due to all the pumping to get it started!)

A long shot... could it be something to do with the ballast resistor?
Battery now flat, i'm starving and have a headache from all the petrol fumes

HELP!!!

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Wed May 02, 12 8:14 pm

db

I had had what sounds like the same problem and it was the ballast resistor.
Try keeping the key in the start position for a few second and see if it stays running.
DAVE BILLADEAU sent me one out straight away and that solved the problem. Is there anyone close buy that can lend you a good one to try.

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Wed May 02, 12 9:11 pm

I've got a good one, if you want me to put it in the post, is it a 2 pin or 4.
I also had a problem where the car kept stalling and it was the ballast.
Mick

db · Post by db » Wed May 02, 12 10:25 pm

No way- you mean i might be right?!

It is new outta the box, it came with the FBO box & coil.
Could we have connected it up wrong?

Yes please Mick, it's a 2-pin. I'll PM my address.
If that does the job i'll buy another and send yours back

autofetish · Post by **autofetish** » Wed May 02, 12 10:30 pm

hello stupid here

its a resistor cant you just measure it with a ohm meter

Mick · Post by **Mick** » Wed May 02, 12 10:52 pm

If it does the job keep it, if it doesn't give it me when i see you next.
Mick

ANTON · Post by **ANTON** » Thu May 03, 12 10:36 am

Mine was also new out the box and w a s. faulty.

Mopar Muscle Association UK

db's 66 Belvedere FOR SALE